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flying pig

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Flying
    Real Ale
    Border Terriers
  • Location
    NW England.

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  • Model
    Skoda Octavia II 1.9tdi (105) Elegance 2007.
  • Year
    0

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  1. I bought my 56 plate Octavia 1.9 tdi Elegance on 4th August 2011after my job relocated to a new base which was 50 miles away from home. After cycling 2 miles to work, I was now faced with a 100 mile daily commute, so needed a motor which could cope with that mileage comfortably and economically. And it was the best decision I ever made, despite a lot of p*ss taking from my mates when I said I was buying a Skoda! 🙄 She coped admirably with the mileage I was travelling and never let me down. When I bought her, she had 44k miles on the clock. She now has 168k miles. I retired two years ago and travel nowhere near as much as I used to but I just can’t bring myself to buy a new car. Recently, an intercooler pipe split which cost me £90 for a new one and £30 to fit by a mate of mine. Besides that, regular maintenance and replacing a couple of rear suspension springs that’s about all that’s gone wrong. If I’m honest, I can’t see myself ever getting shut of it. They certainly don’t make ‘em like that anymore!
  2. I had exactly the same problem with mine when I bought it and a new battery sorted it. I see that you state that your battery is fine. I’ve also read on here that a faulty starter motor can give problems with a hot start as well.
  3. I've got a 56 plate 1.9 TDi PD and my rear wiper motor failed. Rather than than buy a replacement motor, I removed mine, dismantled it and cleaned up the internal workings which had seized. I used motorbike bike chain degreaser to clean the internals and then packed it with grease. It now works a treat. Heres a video outlining the process. Although it's an Audi A3 motor, it's essentially the same as what's in your car. Removing the the motor is straight forward (three bolts and an electrical connection) and the boot liner isn't too difficult either. Just remember the torx screw by the rubber grab handle. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing you how to do this. Anyway, have a look at this video and hope it helps.
  4. It's a well known phenomenon which has been discussed on here many times. Have a search through the forums and you'll see.
  5. I had exactly the same problem with mine and it was the battery. Apparently, a warm engine requires more power from the battery than a cold engine. Sounds strange, but it's true. Start with a new battery and see how you go. I think you'll find it'll sort out your problem. Good luck.
  6. Try clearing out the drainage channels behind the wheel arch lining. Its not a difficult job and only requires the removal of several torx screws. Here’s what I found when I did mine. Also, check the rubber seal on the bottom of the passenger door as they can become blocked. How long is it since you changed the pollen filter? It might be worth changing that too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/e14pu2n064mre2o/2012-08-22%2014.16.06.jpg?dl=0
  7. I had exactly the same problem with my 1.9tdi and it was the battery! Before you you start replacing shudder valves etc., have the battery tested or replace it. It's a well known phenomenon that a hot engine requires more juice from the battery than a cold engine. I changed my my battery and it cured the fault instantly. Also, a tired starter motor can also cause these symptoms, but my money is on the battery. Good luck.
  8. Try this tip as shown in the video. By pushing both buttons, it recycles the circulation flap. I had the same problem as you and this worked a treat. Hope it helps.
  9. I too have the 1.9tdi, which developed a coolant leak, albeit not to the extent that you're losing coolant. I had the system pressure tested and it revealed that there was a leak in the EGR cooler. Just a suggestion should your water pump be ok.
  10. I've got a 56 plate 1.9tdi with 125k miles on the clock and it's been a cracking car during my seven years of ownership. In answer to your question, I had to replace both of the front suspension coil springs recently after one of them snapped. I actually heard it go whilst I was washing the car. Aside from that, I've not had any other issues with regards to the suspension.
  11. Not today but a couple of days this week. Full service and tailgate lock assembly / micro switch replaced, followed by four new tyres. It's been a bloody expensive week! :-(
  12. Just an update re the boot switch. It turned out that the connector to the micro switch on the lock assembly was badly corroded. One of the pins within the connector was totally broken and the others corroded. Going to have to replace the connector as well as the boot lock assembly. Not too big a job to get it sorted. Booke23, thanks for your input mate, appreciate it.
  13. Spot on! I've always found anything to do with 'wiggly amps' to be a complete pain in the rump! It's piddling down here at the moment and I've only had around three hours kip after last nights shift, so I'm not in the best frame of mind to tackle it just now. ;-) I'll probably tackle it on Monday at my mates garage and I'll let you know how I get on. Funny thing, but he too mentioned the flexible wiring leading into the boot. Thanks again mate and have a good weekend.
  14. Will do mate, however I've checked the power to the switch and it was ok. I had a bit of a fiddle with it last night in work. I noticed that within the lock assembly that is attached to the tailgate, there's a plunger for the want of a better word, which when I pushed with a screwdriver, extinguished the warning light on the dash. I gave it a liberal spraying with WD40 but the light remained on when I closed the boot. Whilst driving home from work this morning (about an hours commute), around thirty minutes into the journey, the door open light on the dash flickered several times before extinguishing completely and remained that way for the rest of the journey. Happy days I thought! However, this morning the alarm activated and the door open icon is showing on the dash again. I'm pretty much convinced it's a micro switch within the lock assembly attached to the tailgate which is activated by the plunger 'thingy' I mentioned earlier. I'll get it scanned on Monday by a mate just to make sure and then I'll see about stripping down / replacing the lock assembly. Thanks for taking the time to answer. Cheers.
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