Joakim

I got my new Superb Combi iV with the SoundSystem last week and in my opinion the sound is much better in the new Superb than in my 2017 Kodiaq with the Canton system. No subwoofer in the Superb but enough bass from the door speakers to play modern rock music quite loud with better tonal balance than the Kodiaq's Canton system. I checked my order confirmation and it states Canton system with 11 speakers, no subwoofer but the badges on my speaker grilles says SoundSystem as previous posters have noted. I really don't care what it says on the badge as long as the sound quality is good. If I did care for badges, I wouldn't be driving a Skoda...🙂

Oil systems are separate but the DSG share the cooling system with the engine. In theory you could warm up the gearbox by idling the engine - but it would be a waste of time, money and environment. The DSG isn't harmed by the harsh gearshifts when cold - it is perfectly normal for an automatic gearbox to be a bit sluggish and harsh when oil is cold. Just start the car and drive away without flooring the accelerator. Trust me on this - I develop software for automatic transmissions for a living...

I guess you will need to fix the light for your MOT and it seems it might take a while (or forever) to get it fixed by Skoda UK. The parts you need to repair the wiring connector are: 8W0 971 832 - Connector housing 000 979 009 E - Wire You only need one wire, there is a terminal crimped in both ends so you just cut it in half and connect the cut ends to the cables in the car. I soldered mine and put heat-shrink tubing over the joint. I also replaced the crappy open back original lights with original Skoda LED lights: 000 052 110 (Will need coding or adapter cable) /Joakim

Looks exactly like my car did! My car was delivered to me December 2013 and I found the corrosion last winter when it was 5 years old. If you remove the lamp you will find that the light fixture is extremely corroded. I even had to replace the end of the cable as the contact had corroded internally. I'm no corrosion expert, but i believe that what we see here is galvanic corrosion - the light fixture got corroded and developed a high resistance to ground through the cable so the current took another way to ground - into the metal surrounding the light fixture. On my car one side looked like the picture above - the other side was fine. Lamp fixture was in good shape and no corrosion around it. I went to my local Skoda dealer and they sent photos to Skoda Sweden for evaluation. A couple of weeks later i got a message that Skoda Sweden would replace the tailgate without cost. When I got my car back with the new tailgate, I changed the new light fixtures (with open backsides) that the garage had installed, to Skoda original LED lights, which are sealed. Hopefully this will prevent corrosion of the new tailgate. As this seems to be a design flaw, I hope you can convince Skoda UK to replace the tailgate. Best of luck!

I bought the same kit as Jonny5ive. I didn't have a picture of the original package so I read the part number on the light. I guess Skoda put their own part number on the VW light?

Disclaimer - don't get mad at me if this ruins your car, it worked on my car, I can't guarantee it will work on your car. According to my notes I set bit 7 (to 1) in byte 17 in 09 Central Electronics module. Help text was "License Plate Light w/o Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) [LED Light]" This was in an older version of VCDS. Help text might have changed in newer versions. You can try this without buying the LED lights - set code and disconnect one of the old lights - if there is no bulb warning it should work with the LED light. Good luck!

Hi! I have installed OEM LED number plate lights on my 2014 FL Estate. The part number is 3AF943021A and they are made by Hella = good quality and good light distribution. Fitting is simple - just replace the old lights. You have to turn off the faulty bulb warning with VCDS (or other tool of choice) as there are no load resistors in these. Bought the pair of them from Ebay for £18 I think.

If scratches on the wheel was the only result I think you are ok. Two winters ago I hit a curb with more force - the alloy wheel buckled and had to be replaced. At the four wheel alignment I did after replacing the wheel, nothing was really far off, but the wheel bearing failed 5000 km later. I guess the close encounter with the curb was the reason. Replaced the bearing myself and have not had any issues since.

According to the service manual you should drain 0.3 l from each of the the rear calipers and 0.2 l from the front ones, so that's 1 liter. If you have a manual gearbox the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder should be drained together with the brakes as the clutch shares the fluid with the brake system - service manual states that 0.15 l should be drained from the slave cylinder. The order of bleeding is: Clutch slave cylinder (not if you have a DSG gearbox obviously ) Right rear caliper Left rear caliper Right front caliper Left front caliper According to the service manual you should use new brake fluid that conform to USA standard FMVSS 571.116 DOT4 and VW standard 501.14. (It seems that the VW 501.14 is a low viscosity version of the DOT 4 fluid that works better with ESP?)

Hi! Just wanted to let anyone living in the not so warm parts of the world and having a 2017 Kodiaq with a parking heater that the Dfreeeze parking heater GSM remote start system sold by the Volkswagen dealers works very well with the Kodiaq. Installed it in a couple of hours, most of the time spent figuring out how to remove the right hand side boot lining without damaging it. There are just four things to install: The remote unit. It's a little bit bigger than a cigarette packet and I secured it to the chassis with thick double sided tape and a large cable tie The connection cable that you insert before the heater radio remote unit. The cabin temperature sensor - I fastened it to the backside of the boot lining ventilation grating with small cable ties. The GSM-antenna - I placed it at the rear edge of the rearmost side window. It is invisible from the outside and there are just a few mm of the antenna visible at the edge of the D-pillar lining. All connections are done with contacts - no cutting, crimping or soldering. The VW article number for the Dfreeeze system with VAG connectors installed is: 000 054 929 C When initializing system use setting 4 - MQB-platform with LIN-bus and temperature sensor. A two year license is included in purchase and then it is €20 per year. In my 2014 Superb I use the Webasto ThermoCall 3 GSM remote start but that is not possible in the newer MQB platform based cars as the Webasto TC3 (and TC4) doesn't support LIN-bus control of the heater. /Joakim

It works on my Kodiaq - I just put my foot straight in under the center of the bumper and then pull the foot straight out - no waving about. According to the Swedish manual, waving your foot under the bumper is for stopping the movement of the boot lid.

Ordered wife's Kodiaq on 17th of December - got it two days ago, 5th of June. I have been informed on build week 26, 34 and even 43(!) before it settled down and got built week 18. My dealer blamed the jumping about of the build week on problems with the supply of electric seats. Wife promised I could try it some day...

You don't have to wait so long for your Kodiaqs in the UK, compared to Sweden. I ordered a TDi190 4x4 in December and in February I got preliminary build week 34. Apparently there was some problem with the supply of electric seats that delayed my car. Got an update today that preliminary build week is changed to 21.

Hi! Have anyone converted the halogen high beam on a Bi-xenon equipped FL Superb II using an aftermarket xenon kit and managed to turn off the high beam bulb failure detection using VCDS? I changed the H3 main beam bulbs on my old 2010 pre-FL Superb to xenons without coding any didn't have any warnings, but on my 2013 FL I get a "Check right high beam bulb" warning. I only get a warning on the right side, switching the ballasts I still get the warning on the right side, so the problem seems to be that the right side bulb failure detection is more sensitive than the left side. :S The ballasts are bought from a reputable dealer and are of the "CANBUS-friendly" type.

I had excessive wear on the insides of both my front tyres, similar to yours but mine was worse. One side was so worn that the cord was showing with 3mm left of the thread in the centre of the tyre. I always run my tyres with 20-30 kPa over recommended unladen pressure and increase pressure to maximum recommended when fully laden for holidays and such. After seeing the uneven wear I had a four wheel alignment done, and it seems I had been running with uneven slight toe out front +00°16'/-00°18' and more even toe out rear -00°02'/-00°03' instead of recommended +00°05'/+00°05' toe in front and rear. Car seems more stable now but hard to tell with winter tyres on. Excessive toe out will cause wear on the inside edges of tyres and excessive toe in will cause wear on the outside edges of tyres. With toe in you get improved straight line stability and reduced steering response. With toe out you get reduced straight line stability and improved steering response.

Hi! I have noticed this behaviour in my Superb TDi with DSG. You will get a harsh kickdown if you are not easy on the throttle through a roundabout. My theory is that it is the ESP/ASR that is preventing a downshift during high lateral acceleration and a lot of steering input to prevent wheel spin and skidding if the road is slippery. The acceleration in too high a gear will make the car seem sluggish and out of breath. Then when you are going straight again and the ESP allows a downshift, you have kept pressing the accelerator pedal so the kickdown will be enthusiastic.

I have also managed to drain the car battery using the Webasto heater by repeatedly running the heater for a longer period than the duration of the following drive.The Webasto manual states that you should drive the car for at least as long as you had the heater on, in order to recharge the battery. In the middle of the winter when I run the Webasto 2 x 30 min per day, and drive the car for 2 x 25 min, I now use a mains charger to top up the battery during the weekend and I have not had any problems the last three years. I have a CTEK charger with a quick connector and have installed the corresponding connector in both my cars (and my motorcycle), so connecting the charger is really easy. With my previous Superb Combi there was a misunderstanding when I ordered the car and I got a car without Webasto heater. After looking at several possibilities I ordered a Superb specific mounting kit for a Thermo Top C, a generic mounting kit for a Thermo Top V, some original Skoda heater brackets and a Thermo Top V heater and managed to cobble it all together for a fully functional heater installation. There was no maxi-dot integration - just a standard Webasto 1533 timer to control the heater. I took me a while to get it all working as I am no mechanic - just stubborn... In my latest Superb I have the factory installed heater with maxi-dot integration and key fob remote. Last winter I added the TC3 GSM remote and it was really simple to install with the VAG adapter cable - just plug and play.

I have four of these (Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8) in dimension 205/55-16" on my 4x4 Superb and I haven't got stuck once this winter! I have been driving on snow and ice for more than 25 winters and would recommend a narrow tire for winter use. Best regards Joakim from Sweden

Hello! A normal 12V automotive relay will draw somewhere around 150 mA current and the headlight lamp somewhere around 4500 mA. The extra current through the relay should not trigger any warnings. Someone with more knowledge of the Superb electrical system might know of a better place to get the relay control voltage? By the way, I wouldn't use one of those blue/red scotchlok things to splice in the relay. :no: Do it properly, thats my advice... Good luck!

Lipponen, Regarding driving at ludicrous speeds on gravel or snow/ice I have to say that our former countrymen ( ) in the east are the best...perkele! :clap:

peterposh, What you are referring to is TCS, traction control, not ESP. Traction control will cut power to prevent wheel spin. ESP will kick in to help you counter skidding when the car accelerometers determine that you and your vehicle is going in a direction not in accordance to your steering wheel input - i.e. over or understeer. As I have a 12 km drive each morning to get to a major road (in Sweden) I'm well aware of the benefits of both TCS (not much of an issue with 4x4 ) and ESP. Yesterday morning I had 15 cm of fresh snow on the road - finally the real winter is here and I can get some use of my four wheel drive! :clap:

The coding to make the ESP switchable depends on the part number of the ABS unit not the car model. The method for the Golf in the link above worked on my ABS unit, there are a couple other codings for other part numbers and then there are some part numbers that can't be recoded. My ABS unit has part number 1K0 907 379 BL. The "Golf method" should also work for part numbers that ends with BH/BJ/BK. /Joakim

Hi LS108! Depending on model of ABS unit installed in your Superb, it may be possible to update the coding of the ABS controller with VCDS to enable switching both TSC and ESP on / off. On my 4x4 Superb I have made it possible to switch off ESP to enable drifting in snow. The only problem is that what little snow we had melted away today :( /Joakim

As the coolant is quite warm, around 60°, when you start the engine, you will get the engine block and oil up to temperature pretty fast when using the Webasto heater. It's also really useful when outside temperature drops below -20° as the waste heat from the engine at normal cruising speed isn't enough to heat the interior. For this winter I'm planning on adding a Thermo Call 3 GSM remote module to my Webasto. It seems to be plug-and-play using the VAG adapter cable. Has anyone on the forum added a TC3 to their Superb?

I installed a detachable towbar to my previous Superb Combi. The mechanical part is pretty simple, the electrics are a bit more troublesome if you want a full system integration (CAN-bus). The electrics took me longer than the towbar to install. I would recommend that you download installation instructions from towbar / wiring kit manufacturers and see for yourself what you have to do. I had to make a small bumper cut out, but it wasn't visible unless you were lying down behind the car.