AJAMESR

Well a Smart TV is not much good without some sort of subscription to a PPV service and a paid for internet connection. Car is pretty much the same. Has SMART capability, but it’s optional. If you want to pay for internet access and the provided services then it’s an available optio, and if u don’t you don’t have to and you can save the money. id rather the option to pay if I want rather than it be front loaded on the cost of the car & it’s not something I actually need or want. Granted the sales staff can probably make this clearer but honestly I don’t think half of them have a clue about what they are selling. The amount of information that I knew about the car I was buying compared to what the sales guy was telling me was bordering on criminal 😂 I may not have bought the car based on his selling points. I did the research myself to check out the options that the car was coming with - and he was missing all kinds of selling points he could have been pushing. Clueless 🤷‍♂️

Spare wheel well leaks often have to do with the rear brake light seals. Estate is different kettle of fish though. But it’s a two man job with one guy doing acrobats with a torch inside the closed car to try and see the dribble of water while the other guy hits the car with a hose. The repair is easy - the find is the killer.

Update on this guys. Might help someone else. it wasn’t the infamous sunroof hose after all. Which I always doubted anyway as the roof cloth was always bone dry. Anyway noticed the rear was soaking again and so decided to do a more thorough investigation. Traced it back to the sunroof area for sure by doing localised water tests and watching for the water coming in ( which was coming in at the right hand rear, in the quarter just behind the door) Checked all runoff pipes and poured endless amounts of water into the sunroof channels and it came pouring out over the wheel wells as it should. No water coming into through the rear quarter. Closed sunroof again and poured water over it and water coming into the car. So it must be the sunroof subframe where it’s bonded to the roof. Could be a hole in the seal. That needed removing the plastic surround to get a better look. Did that and couldn’t see any obvious gap in the seal but when I poured water there it vanished quickly and poured in at the rear quarter- so that was the problem ( we thought). Anyway, primed and sealed the subframe. Left to dry and water tested. Water still coming in 🤦‍♂️🤯 Eventually I found a tiny hole in the body of the car, right in the corner where all water would almost funnel to and then enter the roof skin, travel along the skin until it found an out point which was where some plastic wire holders where clicked into the body frame in that rear quarter panel. Hence why no wet roof cloth. Sealed the pin hole. Poured water for 20 min - not a drop in anymore. 😎

It’s plastic and it’s easy enough to remove by competent windscreen fitters and the new one just bonds down using the same sealant used to bond in a windscreen. It is a pretty easy job really, it’s just a plastic surround. I have pics of one removed. Guys car was parked near someone that was welding and he got spot welds all over his car. Entire repaint and every glass and sunroof replaced.

There's a lot of critera to be met for the Front Assist to activate. How quickly the car in front is slowing, if the car sensors detect whether or not you are reacting to the slowing of the car in front, what speed you are doing and a few other things. Also depends on how you have set it up, particularly the distance you have set in the settings. Yes they can be calibrated. But if they are out of calibration the car will alert you. For example if someone hits into your bumper in a car park while you are in shopping, when you come out and start the car it will be able to detect that the radar behind the bumper has been moved and will deactivate the system and show an alert. The braking kicks in very late when depending on the ADAS system. Its really there as a very last resort to try and avoid a collision. As a result its extremely hard to test safely in real world conditions. You'd be a brave man to drive in a manner that would cause it to activate - literally driving to a point where a collision is imminent. Generally you will chicken out and hit the brakes yourself before the ADAS is called into action. As regard not showing on the Maxidot - I will pay a bit more attention to my own and see how it shows.

You wont be able to test the system in a DIY fashion. They are far more complicated and clever than that. Styrofoam will not cause the car to stop. This is the set up NACP uses to put these systems through their paces. https://youtu.be/FTKxCE5qmQM The car is clever enough to warn you if something is not working correctly. If you have no warning lights you can safely presume all is well.

Dealers dont replace glass. They may have taken your car in, but they arranged for a windscreen company to come and replace it. And thats just the gel for the rain sensor. Looks a bit rough but actually still functional. Usually after a bit of time the gel pad settles a bit and "sucks" a bit tighter to the glass. New gel pads can be got for some sensors but not always available. And sometimes even the new ones dont sit flush straight away. Wouldn't say it was a bad job just based on that, its a standard enough finish after removing the sensor from the old screen and fixing it to the new one. Should still be operational and will prob settle down in time. And if not, the sensor just needs to be dropped and a new pad put in place, but again even the new pad might need time to sit properly.

Fitted mine today - more of an ordeal than I thought, but in for a penny.... Rear Seat out - Not to bad really. Trim removed or lifted enough to get the new cable in. First thing I tackled was the wiring to the BCM as I though no point running in cable etc and then not be able to wire it in for some reason, so I tackled the wiring first. It is tricky. You'd want some experience of working with electrical connections in a car, harness's etc. as it isn't explained in great detail in the instructions so a certain amount of know how is presumed I guess. BCM located on passenger side. Remove the trim in the left foot panel (1st Pic) but dont attempt to unplug the Connection C from the BCM from here. Instead remove the cover on the door side of the dash - (Pic 2) Now you need to disconnect the connection nearest too you, that will be Connection C - (Pic 3) Dangle it down into the footwell - (you can see it in Pic 1) Now you need to slide the connectors out of their harness (Pic 4) Here you can see the Harness on the floor and the connections in white. Next remove the two wires as described in the directions using a Terminal Wire Remover (Pic 5) The first wire was OK, the second wire was smaller and a bit more difficult to work free. I removed one wire first and then inserted it into the new connector provided before removing the second wire, that way I was minimising the chances of them touching when out. That was pretty much it when it came to wiring - So you'd need a little bit of know how about unplugging connections. I know this sounds simple, you just unplug them right? Well yes and no. They will be held in by a locking tab, so you need to release that first. In this case just pull back on the white tab in Pic 3 and it will also slide the plug out at the same time. Make sure to click this up fully when plugging back in. If this is unfamiliar to you this job might be a bit much. Also I wouldn't attempt unless you have Terminal Wire Removal tool - they are cheap as anything but you may need to order online somewhere. Everything else is a matter of removing trim and running cable. No big deal. And then placing and sticking the actual sills. Again not really any drama.

Checked wheel well. Dust - so that’s a good sign 😂 I did borrow a small electric dehumidifier- get that in it tomorrow. I’m pretty sure it’s that hose. Wherever it came from it came in fast. No musty smell in car so it’s not be there long, and we were in car around Xmas & it was dry. So a lot of water came in in the last few weeks. That hose would explain that amount of water that quickly. Thanks for the oven tip. I know a few panel beaters. If it’s not drying out I’ll say it to one of them.

Hi guys. My 2019 Superb hasn’t seen a lot of action since Xmas. Lockdown. I’m sure you can relate. Anyway, brought it to work today to give it a clean and noticed really wet back seat on driver side. Long story short - found a lot of water sitting in the frame when I removed the rear seat. Traced it back and looks like it was a loose sunroof hose. Have done a few water hose tests since pushing it back on tighter ( it wasn’t off) and can’t see anything obvious coming in. Judging by the amount of water I’d say it would be pretty obvious. Have the car since September - drove it quite a bit early on when we were allowed more than 5km from house. Never noticed anything then. And did a big drive over Xmas. Never noticed it then. Seems like it just started since the car has been parked up around early Jan. Could a frost freeze the pipe and when it expands back it gets lose 🤷‍♂️ Anyway time will tell. I’ve left back seat out & the rear pillar cover off to keep an eye on it. My questions. Anyone else have this happen? And any suggestions for drying out car? Aircon settings for example. Would Air Care Climatronic help in anyway or is that just for filtering outside air pollen etc. Thanks guys. IMG_7847.MOV

Some goodies arrived today. SuperSkoda. Will be a few weeks before I get a chance to fit them. Have to wait until the paint guy is finished before adding the new bits. Car being debadged for a 2 stage Polish to remove swirls that the dealer put on car with weekly washing. Then being nano coated with the self healing stuff. Then I will fit the new stuff. Most excited about the backlit door sills. But the new black badges ( still can’t believe they don’t come standard on a Sportline), and the mudflaps will make a big difference to looks.

Any details on the side skirts and front splitter? Where did you get them? Any more pics - particularly of the side skirt? I had the Meteor Grey on my last car - Octy Vrs - fantastic colour. Looks great on the Superb as well. Gone with the Sport Blue on the new Superb. Colour coded badges and mud flaps on their way from SuperSkoda. But I think the car is crying out for a side skirt.

Did a brim to brim test this week. 398.8km as I pulled in to fill back to brim. 33.41L went in. I make that 33.83mpg. I’m quite happy with that considering I’ve had the car only a couple of weeks so my driving is quite “spirited” and that also includes 5 or 6 Launch Control tests. Doing some napkin maths - over the last 4 years I only put 54,000KM on my Diesel VRs. That was getting me high 40’s per gallon. Let’s say 50mpg. 5.65l per 100KM Fuel for 4 years cost 3051L @ let’s say 1.15 per L. = 3508€ At 34mpg 8.3L per 100km = 4582L @ let’s say 1.25 per L = 5602€ Difference of 2094€ - sounds a lot. But the petrol engine was cheaper to buy than the Diesel by about 2k to 2.5k - so actually break even given my mileage. And even if the engines cost the same and there was no saving in buying a petrol - over 4 years 2094€ is about 10€ per week extra. Totally worth it for the smile it puts on your face. The VRs was a great car, loved it. But this is another level of enjoyment while driving.

Have badges ( SKODA - SUPERB - 4x4 ) in black, the front badge in black on Sport Blue, mudflaps, interior backlit door sills & protective rear bumper panel all in my Superskoda basket. OBD11 on its way already. Can’t believe the Sportline doesn’t come with black badges as standard. See them on other Superbs but can’t figure out the pattern - why some have & some don’t. Easy fix though. It’s also booked in for full 2 stage polish to remove all the swirls that the dealer left after washing it weekly ( & weakly) for the last 10 months. And finishing with a self healing Titan Vulcan Ceramic coating. Next appointment he had was Nov - so I’ll be waiting. Spent the weekend loading a ton load of music onto the Jukebox. 10gigs full. All sorted properly with correct track order and Album covers. All my old CD’s in the attic dragged down 😂 The Canton is way better in the Superb compared to the Octy, and I was very happy with the Octy sound.

Have just switched from Octy3 VRS Diesel to a Superb 4x4 272. Totally agree with comments about the way the power is delivered. So smooth in the 272, paired with the 7 speed DSG it’s almost like driving an electric car. No stutter in gear change, no lag in the throttle response, & as mentioned above, no lag followed by a sudden lurch forward as the power comes on as I was used to in the Octy Diesel. It feels less dramatic than the VRS when u bury the boot, the torque of the diesel gives that momentary “pinned to your seat” feeling - whereas the 272 just gets the job done quicker but smoother. All in all I’d say it simply comes down to mileage covered. The Octy was way more economical & had a 190 Diesel been an option here in Ireland I might have considered it. Still great engines & not at all a bad option. I do low annual mileage (only 54k KM on a 4 year old VRs when selling it) & I wanted to get away from Diesel as I plan to hold this car for 3-4 years and I’m not sure how market value might be affected in diesel cars given the whole green movement ( a whole other conversation) - My experience so far is that high 30’s MPG is very possible in this car but I’d expect I’ll be seeing low 30’s on long term average as I won’t be too bothered about feathering it around when I’m in it. Also, consider how much you might save on the initial purchase of a petrol v Diesel engine. Take that amount and see how much petrol that would buy you. Let’s say you save 2000€ - that could equate to maybe 20,000KM (I’ve not taken any time to fact check that 😂) - I certainly didn’t get the benefit of owning a diesel last time around. Never recouped the extra money I paid for diesel over the petrol as I just didn’t cover enough miles to justify it. I think u mentioned 18K a year. It’s not crazy mileage. Depends on the type of miles as well. City miles v Motorway miles. Anyway - close call for you I guess. There will be no clear right or wrong. And regardless of the engine, it’s a bloody nice cabin to be in.