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pasco

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Posts posted by pasco

  1. if you say theres no leaks etc some times taking the master cylinder off and checking there isnt brake fluid in the servo itself might be an idea saying that this is very rare!

    If this was my car id check all pads all round arnt seized and that all the sliders are free also check the rear pistons are in the right position to sit over the pad, re bleed the brake on each corner just to be sure double check your not loosing fliud etc. then clamp of all hoses by brake calipers like already mentioned. id say it the master cylinder but really hard to say with out looking really.

    How are you bleeding your brakes for instance ( bleed nipple loose pump say 3 times then on the last one hold pedal to floor tighten bleed nipple foot pedal off? same for all brakes?

    the brakes were bled by the garage in the above fashion and also with a pressure bleeder to ensure there was most definitely NO ait in the system. i have checked all pads and obvious stuff like sliders etc and it was none of them. When i went to the garage i was talking to the mechanic there and he said the only other possible thing it could be would have been the master cylinder. There is one more thing to try before i fit a new master cylinder and this is to get a different garage who have vcds to bleed the abs unit and also bleed the system from the master cylinder. the garage i went to did not do this as they said there was no bleed nipple on either the abs unit or on the master cylinder.

  2. just to warn you, if you have a show cage fitted be careful on trackdays as some can turn you down if the cage is not welded in as it becomes more of a hazard in a crash than anything else.

    i beleive this is only on some of the bigger circuits but for example if you wanted to enter these bigger sorts of events then you may come across this issue.

    i suppose with this in mind it would be a good idea for you to get a removeable one so you could take it out for the times when you need to! :)

  3. To be fair. I didn't read the center section of the thread. My fault there!

    Although after doing that now, I would look into doing as you say - bleeding the master cylinder first and seeing how you get on.

    Half the trouble is knowing how badly its doing the drop to the floor, its hard to see over the internet.

    very true, thats why, as good as the internet is and however good the advice can be. things can only be explained in type to a certain extent. i have took it into a garage and they say that it felt like the master cylinder had gone. with all the problems that occurr on these cars i wouldnt mind trying a few of the smaller jobs before having to have a new master cylinder fitted to the car.

  4. in responce to gians comment..a lot of vrs owners have always commented about brake pedal going down when pressure kept on..he cant mean brakes in general though.

    There is a technical document given out by seat showing that this is normal to the diesel engines due to the way they work.

    I can get the document from work if someone wanted me to.

    Really dont know why people post things up when they dont really know the answer or dont read the full thread for extra info... Where in the technical doc does it say when the engine is off the pedal will continualy depress to the floor? And diesel creap to my knowledge is really quite slow and depressing the pedal... Op, listen to the people who are telling you theres a problem. Maybe post in the ask a tech section

    i have taken it to a garage to have a quick check this afternoon and they agree that it was not correct!

    they bled the system from the calipers and then settled on the decision that there was an issue with the master cylinder.

    i think my best option would be to either get a master cylinder and get it sorted that way, otherwise get the brakes bled again from the master cylinder and through vagcom on the abs sensor

  5. On the bleeding point, the way to bleed these cars is either with a vacumn bleeder, or a pressure bleeder running no more than 1bar overpressure, and VCDS. You need the VCDS to bleed the ABS valve block properly.

    Dougal, I'd trust someone who's done a back to back test on 2 cars over "some guy on the interweb" as to whether one of the tested cars has a bad pedal or not.

    thanks ken, this seems to be the general concensus of the matter so i will say this to the garage when i get to them and see if they agree with what has been said.

    thanks

    a

  6. Yes I know, but as I've said My M/C was changed by a garage and I still had the same issue (I swapped the M/C for nothing effectivelly) and you'll still have to bleed the new M/C.

    You can also bleed the system and operate the ABS pump with Vagcom to purge any air.

    Clamp all 4 flexis, is the pedal better?

    decision made then via the advice of other people aswell. i wil not change the master cylinder as this sounds like it would be a waste of time. it sounds like a full flush and bleed of the whole system is what is needed and then take it from there onwards if the problem still occurs.

    The system appears to get airlocked somewhere in the ABS mod and you need to shift a lot of fluid to get it through, you simply cannot do this using the brake pedal.

    Invest the £15 and get a litre of brake fluid and change the lot out.

    I replaced my master cylinder and it didn't make any difference, it was trapped air.

    What kind of idiot tells you that your faulty brakes are normal, appalling advice like that could lead to a serious accident.

    Luckily you have the sense to ignore this stupidity, I just hope whoever decides to jack-in-the-box and give dangerous advice will restrict their forum activities to brainless comments about how lush peoples wheels look in future!

    I thought it was stupid of whoever it was who said that to actually put that i follow the same philosophy as you "sepulchrave" if youve got nothing of any help to say that dont say it at all. In this situation where the brakes on someones car are concerned people should just think before they type.

    thanks for your advice though, i am being led to think that it will just be an issue with a serious amount of trapped air.

    With engine running to press continuously down on the foot-brake will see and feel it drop almost (almost) to the floor.

    Took this up with a SKODA mechanic, who very detailed explained it's to do with car being a diesel and the vacuum reserve in the brake servo.

    He further had me go with him onto the forecourt and test out another year older Fabia VRS 2004, with exactly the same effect.

    Further members on this site confirmed what I was told was correct.

    ok thanks for that advice but strangely enough it does not seem to tie in with anything that anyone else has said on this thread. I will be taking the car to an independent garage tonight so i can get there mechanics opninion on the matter and see wether that ties in with what has been said on here.

  7. I had a M/C fitted to the Audi as the pipework needed moving to the oposite side - still crap, I bought the bleeder and bled at the nipples, still poor, then did as above and the pedal went hard and has been ever since.

    By bleeding using the foot brake the M/C seals go beyond there normal travel and this can damage the seals, its much better to bleed modern cars with a pressure bleeder IMO.

    Pressure bleeder

    I paid £55 for mine off ebay delivered

    thanks for the advice, the only thing is that if the seals are already damaged in the master cylinder this will mean that using one of these pressure bleeders wont actually do anything. do you know what i mean?

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