AdamDB

Don't really like this design of key (i think it's referred to as a V5 series design). AS it uses metal pins to hold the shell together it's generally a one way trip once you snap open the old key.. the newer design (which i have on my ateca) is much easier to work on...i was able to re-shell that and re-use the part of the key with the logo. Hopefully will help anyone who attempts it in future.

So finally got this done having had to wait for the replacement 12mm logo to be delivered ( (3T0837891A). Successfully got the old key apart and transplanted the electronics. All good until trying to put the existing blade into the new key. Sadly the hole which forms part of the tang is slightly smaller on the new key than the original. This left two choices. 1. Remove the pin from each key which holds the 'cut' part in place or 2. get a new key cut from the existing one. I tried option 1 but after 25 minutes and no progress i abandoned that approach. The issue with moving the blades (As per the video) is the potential it may not even fit and may require further 'fettling'. So I went for option 2 and found a local locksmith (don't bother with the chains they won't even look at it unless you buy the whole thing from them for a starting price of £50 upwards).. they cut me a replacement blade for £20. So now I have a brand new key effectively... worth the effort i think as the keys on the old one were starting to soften and degrade from use. This should give a few decent years of service now. Total cost was around £8 for the shell, £20 for the new blade to be cut and £10 for the logo on the back (genuine part which came via this ebay auction - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473104576). Photos of before (vertical) and after (horizontal). cheers.

Well., would you believe it... thought I'd try one more time but i rolled it back a foot or so with the handbrake off and then tried to start it and voila. Started. Tested both remote and non remote keys. Both working. Cancelled the roadside call out for now. Odd one. Might speak to the garage next week for advice anyway. Odd.

Battery voltage is 12.46... No the engine does not turn over...just a short hum of some sort of relay for about 1 second then nothing. Breakdown call booked in. Hopefully they'll be able to see more clearly what the issue is... could still be a battery problem but as it's been running solidly most days without issue (does not stand around for days at a time) i suspect this is not the culprit. I've read elsewhere that condensation on some electrics can cause problems. I know there's some electrical gubbins under the passenger seat so i guess that could also be a place to investigate but that would be beyond my current knowledge base.

So it's finished charging but still won't start.... just a short 'mmm' from somewhere then nothing. Sounds like a deeper issue.

That was my first thought. I've got it on charge now. Will try again once it's showing as charged up and see what gives... I hope it's just a battery issue... that's easily resolved (although I believe some coding is needed as i'll need a 'start/stop' style battery for this car apparently). I guess any fitter can do that.

Hi, wife's citigo just suddenly decided not to start. It's been solid and in daily use. I decided to check the spare key (the non remote one) and unlocked the car with it manually. Inserted and tried to start but just got a slight engine electrics sound and an EPC light. Now it won't start on either key. Feels to me as though the immobolizer has kicked in but there are no fault codes showing on my cheapo DTC reader. Anyone had this before. About to callout the breakdown ppl. Any advice appreciated. thanks

It seems my logo might be a 12mm one. There is a genuine part number for it (3T0837891A) but of course Skoda don't stock it in the UK... as usual... trying some 3rd party key suppliers (HERE).

Hi all, planning to replace the key shell on my wife's Citigo soon ( just waiting on some circlip pliers). I got a replacement shell from Amazon. I believe it's referred to as a mark 5 VW style key which is held together with a pin. I believe the correct approach is to just 'pop' the case open which breaks it in the process but means the circuit board remains safe. I believe there's the chance you can damage the board if you try and push in the holding pin as it can hit the electronics. Anyhow, I believe I've got the process correct to change over the shells but now I'm on the search for a suitable replacement logo badge (There a good video HERE). Does anyone know the size of the badge that's needed, I've measured the indent on the replacement key and it's about 10mm but all the replacement badges i've seen (for example This EBAY auction) seem to indicate they are 14mm. Just wondered if someone had done this and had applied the 14mm ones successfully. I've seen other Skoda variant logos at 12mm and some VW ones at 10mm. Would just like to make sure I get the right ones. Any input appreciated.

Just to advise i managed to source a Skoda branded DAB capable head unit from ebay (1ST 035 869 A) and found a fitter fairly locally who could do the coding to the car.. Showed anti-theft component protection when first powered on and he had to do some sort of re-auth online to turn this off. Fitted an after market DAB antenna to the windscreen and now have full DAB as per manufacturer. Antenna install was easy enough. just had to remove pillar trim and side trim from passenger dashboard and could then route DAB cable straight through to where the head unit was located. Worth the effort in the end.

thanks for that post. I haven't tried to swap the passenger (battery side) as the access was so tight. I was going to pop into my local VW specialist place where all my vehicles go and ask them if they'd take a look. At least i know it wasn't just me..

worked it out.. they're just twist in and out. not that it was very easy getting them back in. getting the metal lugs to slide under those torx was hell. a few bits of missing skin. 😞

umm. so i got some nightbreakers today. Went to fit them expecting to have the usual metal clips holding the bulbs and was confronted with what looks like torque or alan key type fittings? Can anyone confirm it's these that need removing and or loosening. I'm slightly concerned about dropping one into the engine bay.

Oh thanks for the maxxing comment. Didn't really think about that. There are currently 3 variants of the H7 OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER SILVER H7, +100% more brightness, halogen headlamp, 64210NBS-HCB OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER LASER H7, +150% more brightness, halogen headlight lamp, 64210NL-HCB OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER 200, H7, +200% more brightness, halogen headlight lamp, 64210NB200-HCB Varying in price from around £13 - £22 per pair. I was going to go for the +200% ones but may just plump for the cheapest now based on your comments. Any other feedback welcome. thanks Ads

Looks like H7's for both dipped and main beam from what i can tell from a quick inspection. just want something that's a closer match the the DRL's than currently.