mylot

Car has done 108000 miles using 5w/40 fully synthetic vw 502.00/505.00 Changing oil and filter every 10000 miles or 12 months which ever comes first I do about 9000 miles a year

My 2007 1.6 FSI will now and then rattle from engine for a few seconds start up then go ok only when engine cold and not ran for at least 8 hours. It doesn't do it all the time in fact it is can go months without doing it.

Cheers for the help

Cant I just buy two new plastic parts and line the glass up with the corresponding holes and push the plastic retainers in without having to drill out rivets and removing inner metal door panel?

What size drill is required and what size are the new rivets (diameter and length)? Also which rivets require removing? cheers.

Hi have a problem the front passenger window is not attached to the regulator. I have removed the interior door trim and the rubber grommets and the motor will drive the regulator up and down. I can push the window down so the holes in both the regulator and the glass is lined up where the holes are with the grommets removed what part is missing so the glass is connected to the regulator ? and do I need to remove the inner door panel (drill out pop rivets ) to repair?

is the brake unit ok now? also the handbrake not sticking? Sounds like a bearing, have you jacked the wheels up to see if any tight or feeling rough when you turn by hand? Was the disc changed , was the calliper freed off properly its so hard to get all this info down correct

just as above, its just not been clicked back in place after service easily forgotten to do. As long as they remembered to put the sump plug back in correctly Not a laughing matter really I remember a few years ago my brother noticing a bolt on the drive after reversing off, he had his clutch done and the casing bolts had not been tightened up.

Did you have wheel bearings adjusted the same time as tracking? If too tight this can cause problems. Also simple check to see if you have a problem with brakes or wheel bearings is to jack them up one after the other and spin by hand if any are tight. there should be some resistance but you may find one is tight compared to others start your investigation from there. A seized brake would not damage the wheel bearings but a wheel bearing (even if no play) can be on its way out.

I think it's since the tracking was done that the noise started. All the wheel bearings seem to be sound, no play etc. Could it be that having the tracking now aligned, that the tyres make more noise? It sort of sounds like that noise you get from off road bobbly tyres, if you know what I mean? On smooth new tar it's seems louder, and on louder, older surfaces it seems quieter. But maybe it's just less noticeable with the increase in the normal road noise. So the noise started when you had the tracking done. So it must be the tracking not done correctly?

Cheers but all sorted now set of four fitted and running sweet again

Hi thanks to all for your help I swapped number 4 coil pack with number 2 coil pack and cleared the fault before firing up to see if the suspect coil pack was faulty , after scanning for faults again it then showed number 2 cylinder miss fire so found euro car spares having sale on over bank holiday up to 50% off. I got a set of four of the more expensive ones (made by Bougicord) for less than £80 (with free delivery), which was 30% discount to normal price, no need to put discount code in its already priced up with discount. The offer ends today so have a look if your thinking of buying something you may need soon or in future, it seems they have these sales on at bank holidays so pass the word and look out for it again. You can also sign up for email alerts when they have offers on, might be of use to you one day.

Ok will change all four I'm keeping this car for the long term what are the best to buy? It will be worth it in the long run. Any recommendations or ones to steer clear of? The rubber insulation that split was inside the coil pack that grips the spark plug white ceramic after only 50k not great

After service including plugs changed number 4 has miss fire when I checked the coil pack rubber insulation has split in half I take it this will cause the miss fire and I need a new coil pack is this the main reason for coil pack failure? (error code came up as p0304 number 4 cylinder miss fire)

Are you using a socket or spanner to try to undo it? Can you see the plug turning?? or just by the feel of it you think the plug is turning and turning. You may have a worn socket or spanner or the hexagonal head of the plug is rounded off so it feels like the plug is turning around and around but it may be the socket/spanner slipping on the plug. Make sure you can see the plug itself turning. We play tricks on new lads starting out and tell them to take a bolt out with a well worn socket but they dont know its worn/useless (so they can't see the head of the bolt not turning) after a while of failing we tell them to stand aside while we show them how to do it (distracting them while swapping the worn socket for a good one) and whip the bolt out quick then pass back the wrench (distracting them again while we put the worn socket back on) and tell them to try the next one. It realy is cruel but very very funny to watch them.