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Ca-raae

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Posts posted by Ca-raae

  1. Light output is most important for me aswell, but i still haven't solved the ballast placement. Anyone know if there is possible to open the lamp? It should be possible to replace eg. a reflector? If i got to open it i think there should be enough space inside. Think i have to look more into it in the weekend.

    Have also bought a Defa 1204 charger kit, need to find a sensible location for this charger.

  2. Out of curiosity - how do you get rid of the xenon bulb brightness delay? I mean if you turn on your car it takes time for Xenons to reach their full brightness - that will also happen when you switch between high/low beams, rendering the "upgrade" to somewhat useless and even dangerous. Or am I missing the point here?

    That is one drawback and i just have to test if it works good enough, as you say the bulbs need a few seconds to reach maximum, but it's not completely dark while that happens, there will be some light in the high beam and the low beam is on all the time so i am not sure it will be that big of a problem. When the high beam is on you can turn them off for a short period and on again without the delay, i am not sure what the time period is though.

  3. Are you trying to fit a projector type HID into your hi beam, or use the halogen reflector? I don't think the latter would pass our MOT as there would be too much uncontrolled glare. The light scattering may not provide you with any better illumination on your reflective snow. I have seen similar setups in 7" bike reflectors and the glare from anything reflective was horrendous, road signs, white walls etc, like driving into a searchlight.

    http://www.danielste...onversions.html

    http://www.my-gti.co...lector-housings

    It is not as clear as it could be, but I think he is talking only about HIDs in reflector type lamps.

    I did ponder this because my standard halogen lamps were total rubbish. The after market HIDs +nightbreakers provided sufficient illumination.

    I have considered getting new lightunits from ebay and converting them using decent shuttered projectors. In your place, this would be the first thing I would look into, an upgrade of your projectors to the shuttered type.

    http://www.hidretrofits.com/

    http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

    As far as you question, I can sort of vizualise your problem, but I would be very careful of any ballast/exciter wiring ++++++ve! Is there not space to the side, behind the hi beam reflector?

    Yes, i will replace the halogen bulb in the same reflector, i know the professionals say that this a no go and that xenons shall be only in lens projector or in xenon projectors. I have a H4 hi/low kit installed on my other car ('09 Berlingo) and this kit have been working flawlessly for over 3 years and 35000km now, with same bulbs and ballasts. I am happy with the light an it does not dazzle other drivers, in 3 years i have never gotten any reactions from other drivers.

    There might be room for the ballast inside the lamp itself, the problem is getting it in there, maybe it is possible to demount the lamp, haven't looked into that yet but will do.

  4. Same here, xenon projector for low beam and H1 halogen for high beam.

    When i say its not going to work, i mean you will find it difficult and possibly costly to get to where you want and even then you might not be able to.

    So inside your plastic cover you have another module already, not just 2 wires and clip holding the original bulb in place, if so it sounds like somebody has already retrofitted some other bulb.

    Have you tried them with the engine running?

    The cover behind the high beam bulb is in fact a control module, or some kind of a junction box, at least there is a lot of wires going in to that cover. I'm pretty sure this is the original setup, so i can't just drill a hole in it. Probably the same at your car?

    I did start the engine with the xenon kit connected, no problem that i could notice, but i only connected the right side tough, if it should make any differense with both sides connected i am in for a surprise:)

  5. Are you saying you already have factory fitted single beam, non shuttered xenons?

    ps. the whole web is a big place.

    Yes, i have factoryfitted xenon on low beam (no shutters) and halogen on high beam, wich i think is the case for all octavias with factory xenon, at least in Norway.

  6. I did read through the whole web regarding xenon upgrade for octavia, i have noticed people have struggled get them to work, with or without vcds, blown wiper motors, flickering, alarms etc. But i have not seen one single thread saying that it is hard to get wires through. Maybe there is most common to retrofit xenon on low beam, i believe it is different on the lamps without original xenon.

    When you say it is not going to happen, are you meaning installation or function? Regarding function i have tested the kit and it seems to be working fine. Just need to sort out the installation.

  7. Hi all,

    In an attempt to improve my full beam i got a Xenon kit to replace the halogen bulbs, anyone here done such an upgrade? I can't find a proper way to get the wires to and from the ballast inside the lamp housing. The kit is delivered with a kind of rubber gland supposed to be mounted in the plastic cap directly behind the bulb, the issue is that there is no such cap on my lamp, behind the high beam there is some kind of a control module with a bunch of wires in it and behind the low beam there is the ballast for the original xenon.

    Anyone solved this?

    I tried to connect for a function test and it seemed to be working fine with no flickering neither in the original xenon or the new one and no fault warnings in the dash. The kit is a 55W Canbus kit for the H1 high beam.

  8. I have noticed there is a few norwegians on the forum so i thought i'll might be lucky:)

    Pretty sure there is something wrong, tested it last night, started a 45min heating cycle, ckecked on it after 30minutes and the fan wasn't running at all and the car was cold. But the webasto was running and the coolant was warm, i don't know anybody with a VCDS tool so i will take it to Skoda, time for a service now anyway. If anyone has a clue about what to check in particular feel free to post. My local Skoda pusher has been coding on this webasto earlier, to code the remote for it. The result was that the remote was ok, but the Aux. Heater was gone from the MFD, so i had to take it back, maybe there still is something odd in the codes.

  9. Well, it's heating but the interior fan is not running or is running on step one, the car barely get warm at all after 30-45 minutes, anyone here with a octy and webasto heater that can confirm somthings wrong with mine? Do your car get warm and comfy?

    I have retrofitted a remote control for the heater, this was coded at Skoda so you should believe it to be ok, but still something can have gone wrong with the coding.

    Today there was -22°C so i rather like this to be working.

  10. Is it the VW one that gets the feedback?

    The remote system is very crude. IIRC, the remote transmits w-bus commands which are sent unmodified to the Webasto control unit. If the remote doesn't request feedback you don't get it.

    Some of the commands on the remote only affect the remote. It is only when you send an on command that the setting if used and it is only the remote that turned on the Webasto that gets feedback.

    Have you tried all the options in the manual for the T91 remote?

    It is the one that came with the kit that get's feedback, it's with Skoda badge.

    I think i have tried everything mentioned in the manual, but i will give it another shot, i might have missed something.

  11. Dont worry, there is a buffer of 4 transmitters.

    Thanks MStar,

    I have now sucessfully programmed three remotes, but it's only if i start it with the one that came with the kit i get a feedback on the

    LED every 2 seconds or so.

    I can start the heater with the two additional remotes, but i get no feedback. Anyone know a solution to this issue?

    Can't change mode or duration with two extras either.

  12. Now installed the kit, so far i can only stop the heater from the remote, i guess the programming will fix that. As i don't know anyone with a vcds tool i have to do that at my local Skoda dealer. I have tough a cheap ELM 327 USB device from dealextreme but i assume that won't do it, have not bothered trying.

    But i read something interesting in the manual for the remote, each time you learn a remote it will forget the old one, is that true? Can you only have one remote configured? That is really a drawback as me and my girlfriend have our separate set of keys.

  13. Hi Ca-raae,

    I have factory webasto on my preFL Octy II and you are right.

    It only heats air, not the engine (I know its stupid and I know that aftermarket webastos usually also heat the engine...I dont know why Skoda did it like that).

    Only change between preFL and FL is that for FL they added a webasto remote control.

    For preFL there is no remote control, but you can turn it on with button from the car or schedule a timer using maxidot menues (that is my choice..usually I set it to run 20minutes before I go to work in the morning).

    From user manual:

    "Auxiliary heating (auxiliary heating )

    The auxiliary heating (auxiliary heating) functions in connection with the

    heater or with the Climatic or Climatronic.

    It can be used when stationary, when engine is switched off for preheating

    of the vehicle as well as while driving (e.g. during the heating phase of the

    engine).

    The auxiliary heating (auxiliary heating) warms up the coolant during the

    combustion of fuel from the vehicle tank. The coolant warms up the air,

    which (if the blower speed is not set to zero) flows into the occupant

    compartment.6)

    6) However the coolant does not warm up the engine."

    Hi franek.

    Thank you for clarifying this, now at least i know that there's nothing wrong with my fathers car.

    Regarding the remote control you mention this is not standard on all FL models, in Norway this became standard on the Winter and Alldrive models on the 2011 model, i myself have a 2011 L&K, this has no remote control fitted from factory but i am going to retrofit it as kit, i have bought this kit wich should fit all Octavia II, seen an installation manual that states it can be fitted on 2005 and upwards.

    http://www.carsystems.pl/skoda-webasto-telestart-t91r-kit-digital,id109.html

    Regarding the only heating air issue, this heater is still heating the cooling water? Am i right? But it somehow bypasses the engine, there's got be a valve or something that closes when the engine is not running to isolate only the water for the cabin heating together with webasto?

    Or is this webasto only blowing hot air into the cabin directly from the webasto?

  14. I think the Webasto is an air heater. It'll heat the cabin faster and leave the engine to heat itself.

    I'm not sure about this car, but normally webasto in relation to car heats the cooling water for the whole system, but there is right as you say, you also get the webasto as air heater. Air heaters are often used in boats.

  15. Hi Ca-raae,

    That's very interesting, thanks. I need to get this confirmed by Skoda UK and then see about maybe delaying my build. I've been waiting for so long it would be madness not to wait a further 8 weeks to get what I really really want, although I wonder what other changes they'll make for the new model year.

    If anyone else has any news or proof of this then please post what you have or know.

    cheers Simon

    Hi simon,

    Attach the emails with the Norwegian importer of Skoda, Harald A Møller, translated to english with google translate so may not be 100% but i guess you get the essence.

    I was also told by the local Skoda dealer that the Superb wouldn't get any big upgrades of model replacement before 2015, the Octavia a year or two sooner i believe.

    Hello, What is Skoda's plans regarding DAB radio? Considering purchasing Superb but see it as of today only Amundsen who have DAB, this is to small screen for my taste. What about Columbus? Will this be upgraded to DAB later? Feels silly to buy a top model today in 5 years do not have the radio. Is it perhaps new systems in the works that combine large screen, navi and DAB?

    Hey Cato! Regarding your Internet Inquiry. From our Marketing department, we get feedback that it will surely adapters for retrofitting. Update of Columbus is probably not likely. We believe that it lacks both software and hardware (including DAB antenna). Columbus comes with DAB in the 2013 model from week 22 We thank you for your inquiry and welcome you back on our website.

  16. Yes, that's correct. Only available in the 'colder' climate countries. I suspect the on/off switch is in the bottom of the middle dial on the heater controls.

    Norway is defenitely cold enough, he has the switch where you say it is. My question was more regarding why this webasto only heats the cabin and somewhat bypasses the cooling water for the engine, my 2011 heats both cabin and engine.

    I have seen in the installation manual that you can set it either with or without a 3/2 valve, whatever that is? Could this has something to with it.

    I think it's stupid to heat the water only for cabin and not the engine aswell and can't see any reason why it should be like that.

  17. You only need to connect three wires.

    Pin 1 - The power is taken from fuse 16 which also feeds the a/c control unit and climatronic. There is no need to change the fuse value.

    Pin 2 - WBUS to Webasto (Pin 2 on the 8-pin connector)

    Pin 6 - Ground.

    I would remove the other wires from the connector to prevent any kind of interferance.

    In the servicemanual the engine code is CFHC, does the extra C alter anything?

  18. Hi Simon!

    I have to emphasize tatt i live in Norway, and that what I say relates to Norwegian specifications. In Norway the Amundsen unit is out with DAB+, and later this year the Colombus will be as well. I know this from visiting my dealer on Monday, where I was told and showed in an emil from Skoda Norway, the launch week of Colombus with DAB (in Norway). Unfortunately I can not recall what week it was, but it was set or a not so distant future.

    I hope it works out for you. I can state without hesitation that Skoda definitely does provide it, so if you do not have it it has to be on Skoda UK decisions. I also read somewhere that you do not have the option of the Skoda Sound System on all Octavias and Superbs like we do here. The only exempt is Greenline.

    Good luck!

    I also got this confirmed by Skoda in Norway, the Colombus will be available with DAB on the 2013 model available from week 22 (i checked for Superb). Hopefulle there will be an easy fix to replace the old Columbus with the new one. I really want DAB in my car, mainly to get several other radio stations that on FM only is available in the big citys.

  19. You only need to connect three wires.

    Pin 1 - The power is taken from fuse 16 which also feeds the a/c control unit and climatronic. There is no need to change the fuse value.

    Pin 2 - WBUS to Webasto (Pin 2 on the 8-pin connector)

    Pin 6 - Ground.

    I would remove the other wires from the connector to prevent any kind of interferance.

    Thank you very much for helping me out with this, much appreciated :)

    Thanks for the tip about the chassisnumber, removed now.

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