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sammyhale30

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Posts posted by sammyhale30

  1. My local in Burton TL Darby. Have quoted me £169 for a set of genuine valve stem seals. Can I get genuine cheaper anywhere else??  I saw Elring ones on ebay,but they seem too cheap to be true.  I obviously only want to replace once, so don't want to risk putting in anything other than genuine dealer recommended parts.

     

    Does anyone know who manufactures the genuine ones for Vw/Audi/Skoda??

  2. Both the FAG bearings went in beautifully with my press so i can only assume the wheel hub/abs ring must be the wrong one for my car..?

    Really angry right now because money down the drain.  The first Wheel hub abs ring i tried tapping gently in with a hammer as per the Autodoc videos... it got so far and wouldn`t go any further, so i gave it some firm smacks with the hammer and then the bearing started to come apart, it became loose like it was coming apart.  The second one I tried a more gently approach, slowly easing it in with my press, the hub got so far then the fag bearing bottom just popped off!!!  Am i right in assuming the hub/abs ring must be wrong?? It's almost as if it is slightly too wide for the bearing.  I did notice the bearing has a groove in the middle between both halfs.  The abs ring has no grooves, its just a smooth shaft. 

     

    So annoyed now as the FAG bearings are not exactly cheap!  Anyone any ideas as why this could have happened.. just wrong part??  I applied plenty of the proper grease that came with the FAG bearings to all surfaces.  Just seems as if the abs ring/hub splined shaft was too wide.

     

    Cheers,

    Samuel

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  3. anyone else had this issue? Its a 2.5" downpipe i bought from ebay for a 2000 octavia 4x4 elegance, it is in constant contact with the start of the prop shaft, the vibration dampener part. You can see on the pic it is scuffing it clean and the car sounds like a train chugging along!  Wondered if anyone experienced this and has a fix for it.. without returning the downpipe?

     

    Cheers,

    Samuel

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  4. OTT.  1. Unless the gasket is torn you don`t need to change it, so the throttle body does not need unbolting at all.  Just pull the intake pipe off, a little spray inside with some wd40... then put your finger inside and push the butterfly to the full open position and wipe below and above it thoroughly with a rag, including the edges of the butterfly itself.  Easy and quick.  Then do the throttle body adaptation on Vagcom.  Unless the throttle body is caked to hell, why over complicate a simple cleaning task by removing the TB then replacing gaskets that are perfectly fine!...  Unless you have OCD and really do think removing the TB and replacing the gasket will be any different to just cleaning it whilst it's on, then fine.  But in reality it makes no difference!

     

     

  5. I had a remapped 1.8T Auq with decat and some big mods like welly intercooler, I even had the big 3" downpipe, car made 259bhp and 280ib/ft torque on rolling road.   I recently dropped the engine into a 4x4 chassis so had to use the twin cat setup and went back to standard diameter downpipe, Lost all of 2bhp when fitting the cat and standard downpipe.  In the end I couldn`t be arsed to keep swapping the cat out for a decat come MOT time, so i left the cat on.  Car still goes like s*** off a shovel and am I really missing the 2bhp, not really!.. because the torque went up slightly.  In fact the car is easier to drive because it has more of a grunt lower down the revs now.  Best mods I ever did to the car were actually the big intercooler and wide intercooler piping, the intake and turbo side of this engine benefits greatly from improved flow.  The exhaust side just needs a 2.5" system and it's done.  All the messing around with wider downpipes and decat's really wasn`t worth the hassle.

  6. Thanks for the help with this.  It's just annoying that it takes DVLA 4 weeks to do anything.  I guess I just have to be patient now and sit it out until I get some documentation from them or someone knocks on my door?  When I search the original plate on the DVLA website it says it isn`t available.. which is a bit of a worry. 

  7. Just built a project car, a mix of a mk1 4x4 octy and a tuned AUQ engine from a mk1 VRS.  But I want to keep my VRS registration plate.  So I sent my V5 for my VRS back to DVLA and updated it with the 4x4 VIN(which is now the chassis of the car).  That was 2 weeks ago so still waiting.  Meanwhile the 4x4 reg is now SORN and possibly scrapped because I gave the 4x4 plates away with the VRS chassis when the scrap company collected it. 

     

    Next part of the story... I took my car for it's MOT couple of days ago but then had a call from the MOT'er saying he couldn`t start the MOT because the reg doesn`t match the VIN number.  I explained to him the story that it's a project car because my AUQ engine I had done a lot of tuning work on, so I mated it upto the transmission in a 4x4 model.  He basically said to me that it is not possible to change the VIN number on the V5 for a registration number.  But I questioned him using the logic that if it isn`t possible why do DVLA give the option on the V5 to change the VIN?  But he still insisted it isn`t possible so now the car is sitting on my drive.

     

    I contacted DVLA and they could not give me any updates on the changes on my V5, it was neither good or bad news and they just said I need to basically wait until I get the documentation back in the post.. they said it can take upto 4 weeks. 

     

    My main question is , is it true what the MOT guy says?  That it is not possible to change the VIN that belongs to a registration plate? 

     

    Cheers for any help as it's all pretty confusing to me at the moment.  I just want to find the easiest solution I can to get my car back on the road. 

     

    Samuel   

    • Like 1
  8. Contacted my local VW dealer and they said you cannot get the rear inner bushes separate for the rear wishbones on the octy 4x4 mk1, you have to buy the entire arm at £113 a pop!  I have a press.  Does anyone know if any of the other bushes from the other vag group cars are interchangeable on this model?..like the inner bushes from the audi tt quattro mk 1 for example?  I know you can press the inner bushes out because you can buy poly alternatives.  But VW insist on selling me an entire new arm with bush already in.  I`ve searched on ebay and i really don`t know what i`m looking for either because they do not list a specific part number for the inner bush.

     

    Thanks for any help :)

     

    Samuel      

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  9. Hi,

     

    My front right driveshaft broke.  Skoda octavia 2001 4x4 150bhp ARX engine code.  I have located a part number from the dealer for the Skoda part, but it is not available in this country so will need specially ordering in at £388.  I have been trying to find out if any of the other vag range cars, vw, audi, seat might use the same driveshaft.  i have measured it up and it is total length 650mm, the inner cv where it connects to the transaxle is 100mm in diameter.  I am really struggling to find the part number for the skoda part, tried dealers on ebay and they all keep finding the right driveshaft for the VRS in their catalogues.  It's as if this driveshaft is not listed for the mk1 4x4 octavia.  This is the part number 1J0407452MX , cannot find an exact match for a new or even aftermarket OE part on ebay or amazon.

     

    Kind regards,

    Samuel Hale

  10. Still haven't found a suitable driveshaft on ebay.  I measured mine and its about 650mm, the inside cv joint diameter is 100mm.  I contacted Skoda dealer who reckons there are none available in the country and they would need to order me one from Czech republic for £388.  My engine code is ARX.  Does anyone know any other vag group cars that might share the same drive shaft?  I found that the 2001 A3 quattro had an ARX?  i  think, but its difficult to tell on ebay from pictures and alot don`t list dimensions or measurements.

  11. ok i asked TL Darby VW in Burton and the guy there said that L means its for engine code ATD, M is for ARX which is mine, both use a different transaxle.... the search continues.  I don`t understand how the internet is so misinformed with part numbers.  I also tried Autodoc... i selected 1.8t 4x4 150bhp and they keep listing the drivers side driveshaft as 800mm+, which is obviously way too long, that's about the length of the VRS driveshaft.. I know this because I have a VRS driveshaft in the garage from my mk1 vrs car.  So it seems i cannot get a replacement driveshaft for the mk1 4x4 arx from anywhere...  The next question is are there any other different manufacturer driveshafts that would fit, like the Audi S3 mk1?

  12. yeh i had a nosey at Etka.  But they list two different part numbers for the same drive shaft... lol, so which one is it? 

    That ebay listing you sent me Skoda driver i select from the drop down my car 4x4 and it says not correct part... it says for 4 motion only on the description??  

    I measured the driveshaft and it is about 645mm in length(including the inner and outer cv joints), the drive shafter diameter is about 43mm and the inner cv is 98mm diameter.

     

    My engine code is ARX.

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