LB123
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Posts posted by LB123
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I would be more focussed on the suspension first. Changing steering geo under different loads indicates something moving in the suspension or steering gear, probably something loose. Go over all the bits you worked on and then the rest of the suspension. And don't drive it till you find whats wrong!
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Scan with VCDS might also help. I had random locking/unlocking on my Fab due to a failing door lock microswitch. Worse if on bumpy road so I thought it was due to the car body flexing relative to the door and jiggling the lock. VCDS showed a fault with the front passenger lock and a new lock cured it.
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Eventualy yes, but I had to logically work through a whole list of possible causes of the engine ECU registering excess intake air before I arrived at the solution. You should do the same list.
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I replaced the timing belts on my BBZ engine a year ago. They are toothed belts. I didn't see any plastic coating, not even on the tensioner pulley! Even if there was wear on the pulleys the timing would only move by a fraction of a degree. Not enough to change the engine running. I don't think that idea is even remotely likely the cause of your problems.
With regard to the fuse blowing, have you tracked down the cause of that and sorted it out?
I don't come on the board often these days as the car still runs fine so it's better to keep everything on the thread rather than personal messages.
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Edwin98, I am copying my answer to your message here for information. It helps to have all suggestions on the board so more people can see them and help.
Just had a look at the thread you have posted and you have a lot of faults and you say they came at the same time and you have a fuse that blows. I don't think you have same problem as me. Yours sounds like you have a short, live to ground, in one of the circuits supplied through that fuse. A trick I have used in the past is to replace the fuse with a stop lamp bulb wired across it. It will light up while the short is present. Then you can follow the wires supplied by that fuse, examining, wiggling, disconnecting, tracing. If the light goes out you know you have just interrupted the short so this narrows down your search. Also saves on the cost of fuses.
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I would go for a rear window. Not the quarterlight! To replace a quarterlight you start off by removing the rear window! A nd expect to be hoovering up glass for hours. It will be everywhere. I found some in the boot. How it got there?
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Then 10mm bolts should be long enough if suitable nutserts are already in.
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Thanks. So 0.4 0.5 or 5/16 should be fine.
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These oil extractors seem to come with probes of 0.4, 0.5, 0.6 and/or 0.8mm diameter. What's the largest that will go into a PD engine please?
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Agree with it not needed in normal use of the car but I have found it useful when the microswitches fail in the lock mechanism. Becomes part of the desperate attempts at unlocking (pull knob upward with pliers, fob switching, driverside door lock/unlock button operating, interior handle pulling and lock mechanism bashing, all together). So I would replace it.
But you'll never miss it unless the lock microswitches fail and wether it actually helps if they do I don't know.
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When driving, does the light increase in intensity as the revs rise. If so probably voltage regulator in the alternator.
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Outside in the cold in sunny devon? Temperature struggled to get above 3ish. My fingers were in and out of gloves all day and I was in and out of the house for hot tea. Video would have been 4 hours long with not much happening most of the time, a bit of cursing now and again and some shivering. Never mind. Had the rear bumper off today and fitted cheapo reversing sensors. Amazing what you can do when the rain stops!
Slide the front seat fully forward and best access is from rear.
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Remove the big bolt that holds the top of the belt in the slidey slot. The top white trim next, held by its edges which curl round the front and back of the B/C pillar ease these free at the top but there is also a spring clip at the top fairly central which can be freed with a large screwdriver, inserted flat and then turned. Lower part of the white bit also has a clip much the same. Removal of the white plastic is toward the opposite BC pillar. Same for the bottom black plastic which just has the one clip at the top. Free the front and rear lips and lever the top toward the opposite BC pillar. Lower edge lifts upward and off. You will also need to free the plastic to the rear of the BC pillar along the door step. Gentle but positive upward force to free the edge and lip and pull out from under the lip of the plastic that starts up the D pillar. The latter bit came up easily on mine freeing the lower bit. I was able to bend the rear lower plastic enough to remove the seat belt mechanism which has an impact explosive in it so carefull! WD40 to the drum edges freed the mechanism. Did this yesterday!!!
ps. thats not all but the other bits are obvious.
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You got it fixed! Yea! Nice one.
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I had a similar problem in a polo. Cured by removing the instrument panel and sitting it on a radiator for a few hours. Must have been damp but might have freshened the connectors by unplugging them and plugging them in a few times.
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Outer lower fixings of the seat backrests are a sprung clip which works loose on mine and rattles. the backrest needs a firm downward thump to locate it.
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My opinion, yes safe to buy. Very difficult to find the right part number for right hand drive left front door lock as nearly all I found on ebay are for left hand drive cars so you should be problem free.
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On the back of the mirror glass is a circular plastic device with several small clips. In the mirror housing is a circular head either mechanically or electrically worked which moves the mirror. The clips on the back of the mirror are a push fit over this circular head. If the clips are intact and the guts of the housing not broken then careful lining up and a firm push should re-seat it. It is glass so try to push evenly all over the centre circle area or it may crack. If the mirror adjustment device is hanging out with the mirror still attached then as above. New complete unit time. Should get one for under 30 on ebay.
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Silly point perhaps but if you are removing and changing the window actuator and panel then it doesn't matter if the lock securing ring falls off and drops in the door. You're going to be able to retrieve it and re-assemble it when you have the actuator panel off.
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, the car is worth almost nothing
In money terms perhaps but think what would happen right now if you took your carkeys and flushed them. How would your next few days go? Probably be seriously difficult but on the other hand if you were thinking of buying a new car this weekend then not a problem.
Timing belt is on its last legs. Change it.
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Thanks for those. I couldn't even find the lambda probe on 7zap.
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Sorry. Yes. Passenger front door, RHD.
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I think I'm loosing it but can't work it out the correct part numbers from 7zap. Fab 1 comfort 1.4 BBZ TMBND46Y744131231 with remote central locking. Need a new passenger door lock mechanism but can't identify what the part number is. I also need a new pre-cat lambda sensor. Can someone help me out please?
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I'm just imagining this mega independant Skoda garage run by the contributors to this thread (except me). I would be a customer!😀
Skoda Fabia non starter occasional
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
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Could this be a cam position sensor fault. Are they reliable?