Cornish_Lad

Provisionally sold at this moment. I’ll update the post accordingly with pictures if it hasn’t sold

Make & Model: Skoda Yeti Outdoor SE TDI Colour: Grey Mileage: 85,311 Price: £7500 ono Description: Yeti 2.0 ltr Tdi - 138bhp Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Full Service History, with receipts for every part used / replaced Extras: None Mods: Standard Annapurna Alloys professionally refurbished (powder coated) to Satin Black, Quantum Remap in 2023 from 110bhp to 138bhp Shipping: No Collection: From my home address in Falmouth TR11 Pictures: Pictures to follow Purchased the car on 11/07/2021 and has been used on a daily basis by myself since that date. Lot's of components replaced (all by my local VW Specialist) with receipts for everything done since purchase. Car also had had Apple Car Play activated by main dealer shortly after I purchased it. 27/08/2021 - Apple Car Play activated by Truscotts Skoda, Helston 17/12/2021 - Rear Wheel Bearing / ABS sensor and rear brake pads all replaced by MM Motors 27/04/2022 - New Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel replaced by MM Motors 09/06/2022 - Service & MOT by MM Motors 17/11/2022 - Front Wheel Bearing replaced by MM Motors 18/04/2023 - Quantum Blue Remap carried out by Eastwood Garage, Penryn 09/06/2023 - Service & MOT by MM Motors 07/11/2023 - Oil Pressure Switches replaced by MM Motors 10/06/2024 - Service & MOT by MM Motors 18/10/2024 - Front ABS Sensor replaced by MM Motors I also have receipts & service documentation from prior to when I purchased the car. The VRM is DA65 PMU for anyone that wants to look up the MOT History. It has had a private VRM on the car which has now been removed (and placed on retention). It will need an MOT in a couple of months, but I have every confidence it will fly through without any issues (just check the history). It will also need a timing belt change this year (but then again Skoda say it doesn't) ..| I've never had any DPF issues at all - always used Esso fuel, and treated the tank to a squirt of Millers EcoMax diesel additive at every fill up. Brake Pads are good, as are the tyres. In short - if it needed any work, it has always been done by Matt @ MM Motors in Truro ... all relevant service history has been logged electronically on the VW / Skoda system Only selling as I now have a Skoda Elroq EV. £35 Road Tax annually. Genuine Yeti rubber mats and bootliner. Full size spare wheel & toolkit. 2 Working Remote Keys. Usual stone chips to front bumper and bonnet, as to be expected with a 10 year old car. I will shortly upload pictures of the interior and exterior once it's been hoovered out and washed. There is 1 tiny dent in one of the rear passenger doors, just below the window, it's about the size of a 5p piece. I haven't a clue how it happened- a local bodyshop quoted me £200 to make good. Will send a photo of it upon request. Any questions /photo requests etc - feel free to email me. I appreciate that being based in Falmouth I'm a long way away from most so will happily accommodate questions / requests etc

Does the knocking noise go away when the clutch is depressed ? I had a DMF issue a couple of years back, at approx 70,000 miles. Ended up replacing the clutch assembly (the DMF is usually part of the same kit) - cost me £700 from an independent garage (VW Specialist)

I wouldn't mind changing the current ( Warm White / Yellow ) Daytime Running Lamps in my 2015 Yeti to something brighter ( Cool White / 4000k or even Daylight White / 6000k ) .. As they are an absolute sod to get to, does anyone know what bulb type they are. ? I've googled but can't find any reference to them .. they're definitely a small replaceable bulb though ... part of the main headlamp cluster, situated just beneath the main headlamps themselves. Also, once identified, and pointers towards a decent quality / non flickering replacement bulb would be great Other option would be to replace both headlamp units with the more modern ones, still conventional main lamps, but they have an LED strip along the bottom of the headlamp unit. Can these be retrofitted without any hassles (ie simple swap over ?) Many Thanks

It’s a Euro Emissions 6 model, takes AdBlue in the rear, via a filler cap in the floor of the boot.

Hi J.R. My Yeti had done 66,000 miles - and my mechanic said he was surprised it lasted that long .... As for a re-map - I have been considering it, local garage are offering a Quantum ECU Remap for £200 + vat - which will take my 109bhp upto 140bhp .... which will be more than enough for me. I don't tow, so don't need much more. As for the VAG emissions fix, I don't believe my Yeti requires it - I checked with the local main dealer and also an online checker @ https://skoda-recallactions.skoda-auto.com/en-gb (with VIN) also confirmed it wasn't one of the affected models.

Quick update - the noise was getting worse, so car was booked into my friendly local independent VW garage. Initial quote was for £1000 (worst case scenario), but on the day I had a text from the garage says it was reduced to £699 He also sent me a picture and video of the offending part, and it was a Sachs DMF that had failed 😞 Apart from a piece of metal that was breaking away from the DMF, it was also very loose, and rocking from side to side. Now have a LSUK clutch and flywheel kit installed, and my Yeti is so much quieter, smoother and runs like the proverbial dream Hopefully that's the end of my garage bills, as I've spent almost £1000 since taking ownership 9 months ago, with new clutch, new rear wheel sensor & associated bits, plus a new battery.

My friendly VW Master Technician told me that it always usually the rear ones that fail. When one of mine failed, my dashboard ws lit up like a Xmas tree, and my Yeti also dropped into limp mode 😞 £170 seem about right - I paid £220 odd inc a new set of rear pads, and a wheel hub which had to be replaced at the same time.

My 65 plate, 2ltr TDi Yeti has started to display a horrible ‘rattle’ when bringing the clutch up to the biting point. It drives fine, doesn’t slip, and has just completed a 600 mile round trip in 1 day without any problems whatsoever. if it is DMF, then what other symptoms should I be watching for ? There seems to be a common fault sharing at this type of mileage by all accounts, with some naming it the Sachs Issue 🙁

Decided to swap out the incandescent lamps for Philips LED lamps ... done the front two easy enough ... But the rear interior lamps were a right pain to remove ... thick I've broken one of them as although it's gone back (easier then how it came out) ... it appears 'loose' 😞 Is there a metal spring clip on both sides ? Also, the same with the number plate lamps ... right sod to get out, but again it's very loose when re-installed. Have I lost a metal clip from one side there as well ? Thinking I might have to get OEM replacements, luckily they don't appear to be that dear (phew) ..

Can I change the thread title ? Not sure I can .... if anyone can point me towards the icon I click to do it, I'll happily amend it (whilst leaving the original title in place) .. Cheers

Final update from me ... local Skoda specialist couldn't book me in until Jan 7th at the earliest, so I was recommended another local, independent VAG specialists around 10 miles away from me. I sent him a text, testing the water so to speak, and he replied with a few suggestions (driving in a straight line for 100 yards, turning the steering wheel on full lock either way and holding it) to see if that would clear the dashboard lights ... which it didn't (think we already knew it wouldn't) .. To my surprise he then offered to call around that night at my home address to check with his scanner. He turned up on time, plugged in his SnapOn scanner and said (as was advised by @nta16and others) that the rear left ABS sensor was not communicating. He then offered to collect my car, and drive it (in limp mode) to his workshop 10 miles away a few days later. Fast forward a few days, and the car was collected as promised. Followed by an update within 90 minutes advising that the ABS Sensor need replacing, along with the wheel bearing (as the magnetic pickup ring ?) was also damaged. He also recommended the rear pads were replaced as they were down to 1mm. I told him to go ahead and do the work, which he did the same day. Car was returned to me that same evening with all light extinguished, limp mode gone (hooray) and a detailed invoice of parts used ... all of which were charged to me at what I would call very reasonable prices (£26 for the ABS Sensor, £20 for the rear pads, and £69 for the wheel bearing) plus 2 hours labour @ £45 per hour. The parts were equal to what I would pay with discount at Euro Car Parts, so I was more than happy. Car now drives like a dream too He also made me aware of a fault code that was present on his SnapOn reader (but interestingly not present on either Carista or the XTool) that he said Skoda/VW were aware of but couldn't provide an explanation for, so not to worry about it. He offered to send me the tech bulletin if I was concerned, but I'm not. Talking to my new found workshop mate, he was a master mechanic for a couple of local Dealerships, but then decided to go it alone a couple of years ago, and is now building up a healthy business based on recommendations alone. I know where his workshop / garage is ... and will be taking my Yeti there again if needed. Oh, and he was also full of praise for the 2ltr Diesel Yeti (110bhp) model saying the only things that really ever go wrong with them are ABS sensors and Squib rings. Fingers crossed he's right Thanks for all the comments and advise lately folks ... really appreciate it !

Well I’ve coded it in using an Xtool VAG 401 unit, made sure it saved the changes (it had) .. Using the same device I read and attempted to clear the stored fault codes, to no avail (the tool advises they’ve been cleared, but came back). I’m out of ideas / options now 🙁 I’ll check the fuses in daylight tomorrow, but no doubt will be following that up with a phone call to the local Skoda specialist. Either I’m missing something, or something is actually wrong with the ABS module etc. I’ll update again when I know more - probably later next week

On the subject of coding the battery, does anyone know what BEM code i can use for the Tayna 096 recommended battery ? I’ve googled, and can’t find anything relevant

As far as I’m aware they’re ok. Haven’t been anywhere other than tarmac with the car. I’ll have a look tomorrow after I’ve played with the Xtool ..

No I haven’t yet told the ECU it’s got a new battery … fingers crossed it might just be that. I’ll update again when I know more

Thought I’d check back in and provide an update. New battery arrived yesterday from Tayna (excellent service by the way). Fitted it this evening, no hassle at all. Unfortunately all previously mentioned warning lights still remain 🙁 Scanned with Carista (Pro version) but that app was unable to reset/clear the faults - and simply stated error code was cleared, but remained .. I’m asking my friend who has an Xtool Vag 401 scanner to bring it in tomorrow, I’ll see if that does any better 🤞 Car is now in limp mode (30 mph max) so if that doesn’t clear them, then I’ll have to admit defeat and speak to my local Skoda specialist. Still can’t understand / believe that these errors, which only appeared after I received a 12v battery low warning, can be anything other than battery related 🤷‍♂️ So frustrating 🙁

Could also be low battery voltage. My 2ltr diesel Yeti had exactly the same symptoms - other experienced Skoda owners on here pointed me towards a failing battery 😞

As per title .. I'm looking to swap out my rather pale interior lamps, for some cool white LED error free lamps ... Any recommendations would be most welcome, as there are many choices out there. Some previous LED lamps I bought maybe 5 years ago flicker like crazy, and don't seem to last very long 😞 Cheers

Same faults as previous, ABS Module and Start / Stop (haven’t scanned yet though). As for the Yuasa battery, I’ve just googled it and apparently it’s not Start / Stop compatible. Hmm, maybe the Tayna one is still in the running

A quick update from me .. Battery was charged all of yesterday, via the correct (third) terminal, and when the Charger showed full (12.8v) and 100% Health I disconnected it. Took the Yeti for a 10 mile drive last night, no issues at all - all warning lights disappeared, and no limp mode. Got in the car this morning, and warning lights are back on. Guess that’s telling me for certain that the existing battery is knackered 🙁 Best deal I can find locally is a Yuasa 096 battery from GSF Car Parts for £104.15 Inc vat (makes it cheaper than the Tayna offering I was going to get). Can’t quite tell if the GSF offering is an AGM battery though - anyone know ? Then (the big question) do I get it coded in ? My work colleague has an Xtool Vag401 that I can borrow to program it in, which I’m probably going to do (as the tool to do it is readily available) .. Really do appreciate all the help and advice from everyone on here, it’s been really useful and helpful 👍

Cheers all ... I'm off to work now so will pop home at lunchtime to put the Yeti on charge again - this time using the 'third' terminal. The Lidl battery charger I'm using does have a AGM mode, so I'' use that as well. Appreciate all the replies - and hopefully you've all save me a bit of expense. If it is just the battery, and it's knackered then I'll head over to Tayna and order a replacement, but fingers crossed once it's had a good charge via the onboard computer thing should start to settle down. I was thinking major expense time (just before Christmas too) if ABS Modules were corrupt .. I'll report back here later in the week with (hopefully) good news.

Oh cripes 😞 Have I definitely screwed the battery do you think ? To be honest I never knew that, thanks for the heads up on that @Urrell

The terminals on the battery … My work colleague has a CTEK charger he says I can borrow that charges via the 12v socket in the car - will that be better ?

Carista screenshots below