Monkhai

I remember there being a short and a longer housing and filters. Suggest measuring the housing length/dimensions to help you get the right part.

Clean air filter Checked fuel filter has been drained/changed? Checked and if needed fitted a new (genuine) MAF?

I’m pretty certain this thread is no longer about individual versions of the “truth” about electric cars.

It’ll be fine for an old diesel from say the early 90s or an old generator, but probably not worth it in a car unless you’re willing to pick up the bill for a new DPF.

I’ve moved this to mk3, as I think the questions are mostly about the 2019 car.

I seem to remember the sachs and LuK parts don’t mix so you need all one or all the other.

I can’t believe this thread is still going!

Suggest reposting with a meaningful title and a description of what the thing is! Thread locked

I would imagine they run down the c pillars to the rear wheel arch liners. Probably the front of the wheel arch by the sill. I’m pretty certain I remember sunroof drains going there, although I’m not certain that was on a Skoda.

Which tool are you using? There’s at least one that is easy easy gparted is in most installers and graphical.

People report many things, but dealers can and do supply the tow bar, tow bar electrics as would be factory fitted. They fit it and code the car so the various systems know. They won’t fit a tow bar to a vehicle that isn’t certified for one, but that’s different.

Skoda absolutely allow dealers to retrofit tow bars and “code” the car to tell it there is now a tow bar. The important part is skoda supplied, which mean the kit has all the parts.

Yes, but any new system will come with batteries and with export at 12p, it makes far more sense to burn gas and sell the electric these days. The cost of a diverter fitted is around £500-700. Even if you are saving 7p per kWh of gas (to allow for efficiency) it is 10000 units of gas. If you have one already, yes I’m sure it helps, but at present there is no point doing anything but exporting. That could of course change soon, but for now I couldn’t recommend buying one.

If you can’t hone charge that’s a problem yes. Even at 50p/kWh (Tesla, subscription DC or 22kW AC rates) it’s about the same as petrol/diesel. (40p ionity subscription rates would be £34) Depreciation, 50% after 3 years is about standard, so I don’t think it’s that bad as ICE cars are there or there about too (typically a little better I admit). I think people need to get over it and just accept people will make their choices. I would never buy an automatic ICE car after driving an EV. I would however buy a manual, fun car not because it’s fast, but as one where you’re more engaged with the drive. It wouldn’t be a daily driver though. I have far bigger issues with the 2L or 3L SUV and trucks that weight 2.5-3 tonne and have the bonnet at head/ribs height.

That’s at 7p, but even at 21p it would be under £18 for 300-425 miles. That’s a lot cheaper than petrol at 45mpg (10m/L) 30-42L of petrol is currently £40-£55. Even a diesel at 54mpg (12m/L) would be £33-£46. Both also have emissions taxes and higher parking charges in some areas. Swings and roundabouts I’d suggest at best.