Monkhai

People report many things, but dealers can and do supply the tow bar, tow bar electrics as would be factory fitted. They fit it and code the car so the various systems know. They won’t fit a tow bar to a vehicle that isn’t certified for one, but that’s different.

Skoda absolutely allow dealers to retrofit tow bars and “code” the car to tell it there is now a tow bar. The important part is skoda supplied, which mean the kit has all the parts.

Yes, but any new system will come with batteries and with export at 12p, it makes far more sense to burn gas and sell the electric these days. The cost of a diverter fitted is around £500-700. Even if you are saving 7p per kWh of gas (to allow for efficiency) it is 10000 units of gas. If you have one already, yes I’m sure it helps, but at present there is no point doing anything but exporting. That could of course change soon, but for now I couldn’t recommend buying one.

If you can’t hone charge that’s a problem yes. Even at 50p/kWh (Tesla, subscription DC or 22kW AC rates) it’s about the same as petrol/diesel. (40p ionity subscription rates would be £34) Depreciation, 50% after 3 years is about standard, so I don’t think it’s that bad as ICE cars are there or there about too (typically a little better I admit). I think people need to get over it and just accept people will make their choices. I would never buy an automatic ICE car after driving an EV. I would however buy a manual, fun car not because it’s fast, but as one where you’re more engaged with the drive. It wouldn’t be a daily driver though. I have far bigger issues with the 2L or 3L SUV and trucks that weight 2.5-3 tonne and have the bonnet at head/ribs height.

That’s at 7p, but even at 21p it would be under £18 for 300-425 miles. That’s a lot cheaper than petrol at 45mpg (10m/L) 30-42L of petrol is currently £40-£55. Even a diesel at 54mpg (12m/L) would be £33-£46. Both also have emissions taxes and higher parking charges in some areas. Swings and roundabouts I’d suggest at best.

I had one for about an hour, drove it around at motorway speeds and with spirited acceleration and I’d be very comfortable it would get 300-350miles without trying to be economical. I think 425 is achievable with a little awareness and possibly more. £6 for 300 to 425 miles seems ok to me.

East west solar array, 20kWh battery and solar capable accessories . I wouldn’t bother with solar diverter if your hot water is on gas as I don’t think it’ll ever pay for itself. Batteries are a god send, but right size it based on your usage and changes over the next 10 years. What questions do you have in mind?

I put cc2 on an EV and might have lost .1 mile per kWh, but it’s hard to tell. That would be a 3% loss, but that was from super slippery EV tyres, to got some grip in the cold all seasons. You can’t have everything and I used to run summer/winter. For the UK a good AS means you don’t have to buy and store wheels. Not as efficient as EV tyres, not as good on compacted snow/ice as full winters but a good compromise in much of the UK. That’s the cc2 too, so I imagine they’ll have improved again for the cc3

How much do you hate it… Not cheap but…. https://schilluk.co.uk/product-selection/retractable/ft-series-electric-vehicle-charging/

Zappi with the integrated hanger or an Anderson’s a2/similar? For non tethered a couple of generic hangers and double sided Velcro in a cupboard work just fine too.

The Jag ipace I saw out of power in a car park was where the owner had thought he had made it and would have if he’d not taken a wrong turn in the car park as less than 20 meters from the chargers. Guy had no idea where bonnet release etc and to add insult to injury the poor sod had left the lights on so the 12v was so flat it wouldn’t take a charge from a granny charger to get enough to drive to the charger.

BEV now, plug-in hybrid a bit down the line.

What did you do in the end and are you happy with your choice? I still have the old unit as I like the emissive technology rather than LED and plasma has really smooth motion vs modern stuff even if its limited to 1080p.

I assumed the garage are fitting..

If the garage order the wrong one it’s their problem not yours. Iirc the clutch, spring and DMF were made as kits from two manufacturers and you couldn’t mis some bits from one and others from the other. I’d get a whole kit and a release bearing/hydraulics too as the extra cost is way less than taking it apart again.

Nearly a full wall of south facing glass and an old plasma is fine. Pretty certain either would be no problem and you’re better off looking at a decent set of blinds to minimise glare.

The epoxy weld putty might be needed, if you have anyone with a 3D printer maybe the could knock something up that attaches. You got a picture of the break?

Or you could just get a car with 800v batteries and this isn’t a problem

I’m not sure the extra hour applies does it. I thought they had a get out. Willing to be wrong, but better to check.

Sorry, range is most certainly an issue. Mostly because of broken chargers or inconsiderate twits going to 100% in their eqs. Big problem with SUV is the slab nose and the height at which they ride. Most cars have a raked bonnets at a lower height. A generic SUV is pretty much a blunt force at the head/ribs or hips of whoever is hit, folding them at 90 degrees or shoving them forward. Look at a RR or a Q7 or a GLE and see how highly they area. Same goes for an EX90, q6 etron. Same goes for any pickup truck. Compare the to a car or size wise to a mk1 Land Rover. I would say weight and bonnet height/angle are major problems across the board.

I had one of those, and all the errors issues on a mk3 Tester said 100%, but that was under DIN conditions, not in a relatively warm uk climate. I would suggest most of them are pretty useless for SoC etc I changed mine as I didn’t want to be stranded away as I drive a lot and we were getting towards winter. Slow starting went, stop start issues went, random codes stopped returning. I put an AGM in.

Stop start not working is one sign of a dead battery. Lots of Random comms/module errors is another that the voltage is going out of spec, which is often the battery.

Variable floor = handle Carpet floor (under the variable) = “handle” is a hole cut into the carpet

2 channel vifo a229+ is pretty reasonable, but get the cpl filter for the front camera.

Adjusting the sensor required specialised equipment. Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back as low/high voltages can cause odd behaviour with sensors in my experience.