avi4tor

I found that I didn't need to remove the garage user from the system. As soon as I set myself as Prime User, the garage account disappeared. So it's not much help to the OP, but it could be the reason you're having problems is because you deleted the garage user first.

. . . and I managed to get a very smelly clutch with a Kia that I hired with an electronic parking brake. I guess they all have slightly different algorithms, and I wanted to make sure my pristine clutch on my car with delivery mileage on it remained pristine for as long as possible.

I had forgotten it is supposed to have a hill start (my 2001 Subaru Forester had that). So it should switch from the parking brake to the hill start foot brake, which gets released as the clutch comes up. That makes sense, I'll give that a go tomorrow.

I have just acquired my manual Mk IV, having previously had a Mk II for 11 years. I need some advice on the electric parking brake. My drive slopes down away from the kerb and I park facing down the slope. To leave the drive I need to start by reversing uphill. With a manual handbrake it's a doddle, but what dance do I need to do with the parking brake and the clutch and brake in order to pull away smoothly (other than putting chocks in front of the wheels). Any advice ? Yes, I have RTFM (which is translated from Czech, into German and then into English and is not bery helpful).

I don't have mine yet (pick it up tomorrow) but there is a section in the manual that says : Setting the unlocking and locking function › In Infotainment, select the following menu: car > cog wheels > Outside > Opening and closing Or: Menu > car > cog wheels > Outside > Opening and closing › By moving your finger sideways, choose the screen with the menu item Central locking . › Select Central locking . I would suggest looking there and seeing if there is an option to do what you want.

I've tried RTFM, unfortunately it has been very poorly translated into English. Obviously either done by a computer or a non-native English speaker. Who else would call the brake servo a brake booster? Under the parking brake section it uses three different phrases relating to engaging or disengaging the brake. Any comment to RTFM needs to be taken with a pinch of salt.

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

I'm having difficulty finding a source for a replacement rear wiper arm for my FL Combi. Most that I've found incorporate the washer in the hub of the arm (my washer is mounted at the top of the tailgate). I've had 2 delivered and they both have the hub that attaches to the spindle set too high. The net result is that the arm by the hub fouls on the glass of the rear window. At the moment my only solution is to cut the hub off of one of the new ones and glue it under the hub of the other (with a bit of drilling so the retaining nut fits). I'm obviously putting the wrong incantation into the web search engines, does anyone have the OEM part no which I can use to get the part I need? Thanks.

Thanks. This is looking like a summer job. I'll look at drying it out for now and then looking for the source of the problem when the weather warms up.

I've got condensation in the rear offside tail light of my FL estate. Before tackling it I have been searching for some replacement gaskets, but am having no luck. Can anyone provide any recommendations of what to look for and what parts I might need before I start pulling things apart?

A couple of years ago I replaced my failed rear wiper motor with one I got online. The short story is that 1) It didn't fit properly from day 1 (only 2 of the 3 mounting holes lined up) and 2) It has developed a fault during this winter's cold spell whereby it silently drains power from the battery. It managed to total one battery (which was 4 years old, so I didn't immediately look elsewhere for a problem) and almost totalled a second in 2 weeks before I cottoned on and pulled its fuse. I'm now awaiting a replacement motor from Horton.

No to the first question, the battery fitted perfectly in the plastic and felt sleeving. The captive nut for the bolt had been mounted at an angle because the securing plate needed to be at a slight angle. To the second question, I took it back to the garage I bought it from yesterday and they are putting it on their fancy bit of test kit. I think it lost 1 cell, though I don't know why. Looking online the maker only gives 1 year or 3 year warranties with their current offerings. The battery for my Stag was a Calcium one and had the vent and vent plug.

The battery I bought yesterday from Halfords had one, the one I bought online just after lockdown for my Triumph Stag also had one.

P.S. make sure and remove the vent blocking plug from the new battery before you install it.

I've just replaced mine (for the second time, the last one only lasted 4 years). A few pointers. You don't need to keep power on the car (by using jump leads etc.), its easy enough to get everything going again (and my second one had died completely anyway). Take of the front half of the screen around the battery, it makes things a lot easier. Disconnect the negative terminal first, it avoids accidentally shorting the positive terminal to the body with your spanner and creating sparks. Needs a 10mm spanner. Remove the securing bolt (buried under the tubing on the inboard side) with a 13mm spanner. Note that this bolt isn't vertical, the head is tilted inwards. You have to ease the battery inwards (towards where the bolt was) to unhook it from the tray. Whilst the battery is out, make sure the securing bolt can be done up with your fingers (you'll see why later). I transferred the cardboard sleeve from the old battery to the new battery. Put the new battery in, tucking the lip at the bottom into the outside edge of the tray. Replace the securing bracket and bolt using your fingers - if you use a socket at this point you risk cross threading the bolt as the head doesn't line up with the gap beside the battery. Once it is more is less tight you can finish it off with a socket. Replace the front half of the screen. Attach the positive terminal and then the negative terminal. At this point the hazard flashers will start flashing, just use the 'remote' to 'unlock' the car to stop them. Replace the cover and start the engine. The steering warning bulb will be lit - when you first drive the car perform a full left and full right lock and then it will go out. The 'one shot' electric window control won't work. For each window hold the control to run the window all the way down and then all the way up. Then the 'one shot' will work again. Both batteries I've fitted weren't fully charged when I got them - either top it up with a charger first or be prepared to take the car for a run when you've done the job.

It was just a faulty coil, and the car was still on its original spark plugs, so those were all replaced. The only advisory was, if one coil has failed, the other 3 are probably going to give problems soon.

Usually it's half that (a litre every 500) , but in Exmoor I was putting in a bit more than that (a litre every 150). But I can live with it, the cost of the extra oil is insignificant compared to the cost of an engine rebuild. I don't think the current mis-firing is due to it, the servicing has become erratic in the last 2 years due to low usage, and the quality of the fuel in the local petrol stations has also suffered due to low take up (some are still selling it at last year's prices). But the cost of an extra set of plugs every 85,000 miles doesn't compare to the cost of an engine rebuild.

My 2011 1.8 has always used oil, and I got it with 4,000 miles on the clock. It gets really bad when I'm driving in Exmoor - lots of high revs, low gear work on the hills. Its now up to 85,000 miles. Yesterday it started mis-firing and being lumpy, mainly around 2,000 rpm. The local garage is going to put in new coils and plugs on Monday and hopefully that will sort it. In the meantime its staying on the drive.

I recently replaced the ones on my estate tailgate. I thought they were the same as the original, but they are strong enough to fling the tailgate up against it's stops, so now I have to restrain it whenever I open it.

I used these for the DRL https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283319454881 They work fine and don't trigger the error indicator. So the vendor seems to know what they are doing and you might find other bulbs you need in their 'shop'.

Before someone asks . . . these were the bulbs. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283319454881

I've put LED bulbs in mine now (which don't trigger the 'failed bulb' test).

If you look here https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2011_Skoda_Octavia_TDI_CR_2.0L_4_Cyl._Turbo_Diesel/lights/foglamp They show the removal method you mentioned in the video at section 3. About half way through you'll see the unit being removed and you can see the catch that my method is aiming to dislodge.

Mine is a 2011 facelift Elegance. I pop out the combined fog light / DRL unit by sliding a 1 inch wide paint stripper blade (a spatula from the kitchen might also suffice) down the in-board edge of the unit. It connects with a hidden sprung catch, and you need to apply a little bit of pressure to the blade at the same time as applying slight sideways pressure to the front of the unit towards the outside of the car.

Now fixed - a few gotchas. To remove the arm nut cover, unclip the sides and roll it towards the arm - then you can unclip it from the arm. Pulling the arm off the spindle I managed to pull the arm off the taper insert instead with a puller. The cheap replacement motor only lined up with 2 of the 3 mounting points. The replacement arm fouled the glass, so I had to repair the old arm with araldite. I managed to break a couple of the retaining clips for the boot lining moulding, but the remaining ones hold it on OK. The old motor gearing was ok mechanically, so it was probably an electronic problem in the control box, or the electric motor failed.