mexmeister

Hi all - just a thought and it may not be a runner, but you may be able to modify a pair of rear suspension turrets from a Mk1 Escort rather than fabricating something from scratch. I've got a Mk1 with these fitted and the basic shape look sort of similar. https://www.motorsport-tools.com/escort-mk1-mk2-group4-round-turrets-to-suit-13-wheels.html Cheers

Link to Ebay advert https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fun-pickup-truck/264621221537?hash=item3d9ca766a1:g:cuEAAOSwuJFeNzc4

Ricardo - looks like you were right! Now advertised on Ebay with a low starting price and no reserve as I need the space.

Hi Ricardo - thanks for that. I must admit I have spent quite a bit on the pickup over the years trying to keep it in good condition. The MGZR seats match the vehicle well and are quite a bit more comfortable and supportive than the original seats. I'm not entirely sure about the price, as not many come up for sale that I can compare it to. However, I don't think I'm too far out given it's condition and the price that others (some not great) have been going for - time will tell!! Cheers

Hi - in case anyone is interested, I'm having to sell my Fun Pickup, as I need a van for my new job. I've posted an ad in the Classified Ads section. Cheers

I had the same problem, so I simply stripped the whole hydraulic system out - it was pretty simple and easy to do. I then hid the adjuster on the dash by Velcroing my stereo remote fob over the top. 'What the eye don't see' and all that. Whoever carries out the MOT doesn't even know there used to be a hydraulic adjustment system on the car (how often do the MOT Felicia's now?) . I seem to remember you can manually adjust the headlights using an Allen key - like cars in the good old days! Not had any problems passing an MOT for years. Best of luck

See the for sale section for info

The engine was pinking slightly under hard acceleration when I took it for the suggested Italian Tune Up before I took it for its MOT. However, the existing fuel has octane booster in it. When I next fill it up I'll put standard 95 RON fuel in and see how it runs. If it starts pinking more severely, what are my options? (other than continue with the octane booster) Ricardo - I'll try and get a decent photo of the inside of the breather hose, but I'm not going to be using the pickup until the weekend. Ken - Ref fitting a catch tank - thanks for the suggestion, but I think I'll try and get the correct hose or maybe find an alternative instead. If all else fails, I'll probably assemble my own. Thanks again for your help

Just to let you know that the pickup has just passed its MOT with a CO reading of 0.02% ! The engine temp is now also at 90 degrees when running at normal speed. At least it looks like the Fun has got a bit more life in it yet. Thanks to all those who've helped with comments/advice - particularly Ricardo and Ken Cheers

Hi Ricardo - thanks for the info on the hose - much appreciated. I've done a quick search on the web and it doesn't look like I can get one in the UK, but I'm hoping I can source one from abroad. Could the existing almost blocked hose have an impact on emissions? Cheers

I changed the Coil pack, complete thermostat and housing (inc coolant sensor) today and the ignition fault no longer appear in VCDS. What was interesting was that following the comments about the low coolant temp and high air temp readings in VCDS, I examined things a bit more closely and it appears to be a glitch in VCDS. (see attached pics) as can be seen, when viewing groups 1, 2 and 3 together, as was noted before, the coolant temp in very low and the air temp very high (appear transposed). However, if each group is viewed individually, the readings are suddenly correct. The cooling system seems to be working OK. Using VCDS I monitored the temp value whilst feeling the cooling hoses/rad. The thermostat opened at about 86 degrees and the fan then kicked in at 96 degrees. However, when the engine was warming up, the the top hose near the thermostat still got quite warm before the thermostat opened. Hopefully the new Coil pack will sort out the high emission problem. I'll get it tested at the end of the week. I also cleared the airbag fault and it hasn't reappeared. One thing I did find was that there there appears to be a dodgy hose at the rear L/H top of the engine. The hose appears to be cracking up and the previous owner has wrapped some insulation tape round it. However, the hose is collapsing in on itself and is therefore almost blocked . I've arrowed the hose in question in the attached photo. Can anyone identify what hose it is, (ideally with a part number), as I would like to replace it - although it looks like it may be fun getting to the bottom fixing. Thanks

Interesting indeed. However, I fitted the new thermostat housing myself and I know I've have never touched the air temp sensor. I guess it's possible something happened before I purchased the car - or could it have happened during the head gasket repair? However, what's also is interesting is there's a forum post from 2011 where there's someone with similar flipped readings for air and coolant temperatures showing in VCDS-Lite. There's a comment about VCDS-light not always having the correct measuring block labels. All being well I'll be fitting a new coolant temp sender and coil pack tomorrow. If I've got time I'll also investigate the airbag wiring etc. Thanks for your help.

Hi Ricardo - during warm up the top hose only slowly gets hot and I think it may simply be 'bleeding' through the thermostat. The radiator remains cold as does the bottom hose, so I'm pretty sure there's no water flowing through the radiator. It's only when the top hose gets quite hot that the thermostat appears to open and there's then flow around the rad and bottom hose which then get hot quite quickly. I just drove the pickup about 6 miles and immediately after stopping I checked and the top hose was getting quite hot. However, the rad and bottom hose were still pretty much cold. Ref the airbag issue - whilst a non functioning airbag is not ideal, there's no warning light showing on the dash, so at the moment sorting that out isn't my top priority. Cheers

Thanks for your help with this gents. It looks like tinkering with the timing is not something that I'm easily going to be able to do. As it happens I've already ordered a new temp sensor, which should arrive in the next couple of days. Hopefully the temp indicated by VCDS with be normal once fitted. My feeling is that the thermostat is probably working OK, as the hose that goes to radiator gets pretty hot before the thermostat appears to open and allow flow. Ricardo - I'm also a bit puzzled by the ignition issue, as although when driving the pickup it doesn't 'feel' quite right and I have the pinking ussue, in general the engine seems to run ok. From cold the engine turns over and starts 1st time pretty much immediately with no extended turning over. Idling is strong and constant - no significant hunting and I don't have any issues with rough running. It pulls quite well with no apparent ignition break down under load. It can be a little tempremental starting when it's still warm, but it always starts after a bit more turning over. My main concern is getting through the MOT in a few weeks time. I'll fit the new coil pack and temp sensor and see if that improves the situation. I'm being advised by a few people to get shot of the truck and buy something 'younger and more reliable', but despite all it's issues, I'm pretty fond of it and want to try keep it on the road. Ken - the airbag warning light on the dash has never illuminated. The bulb still work as the light comes on when key is turned to the aux position. I thin it's just ignore the issue and maybe it will go away - but then again!! Cheers

I've been able to access the pickup using VCDS-Lite and I noticed that the value for coolant temperature seems to drop by 50 degree a few seconds after being accessed (see photo). I guess this means a faulty temp sensor? The heater seems to be pretty good (wife likes it!). Just ran a check with engine running whilst stationary and when the temp gauge needle starts to move off bottom stop, only front/top hose is getting warm. The hose then takes a while to get quite hot and then the thermostat appears to open and the other hose gets hot. Would the incorrect temp reading cause a problem (i.e. faulty ECU responce) VCDS now seems to be showing two fault codes - the one for the ignition and another one for the Airbag. (see photo) Cheers