vegashc110

1 September, 2019

5 hours ago, Wino said:

So pin 1 is earth (brown wire?), pin 2 is permanent 12V (red wire?), pin 3 is an ignition on 12V (black?).

4 is a PWM signal from engine ECU which governs the speed of the fans, continuously variable. Green wire I think?

Nothing obviously wrong there but if engine was hotter I'd expect that voltage to go up and get the fans going; or if the AC was on and working.

yeah thats correct colours and all seems to be right, think im going to bench test my spare fans and see what voltage will turn them on then get car upto good temp and see what mine is producing.

Thanks for the replies Wino

1 September, 2019

So got around to checking the CTS (thermostat side - switch side) with multimeter and got the following

Normal operation?, seems to lower as temp builds and once Thermostat opens ( cooler fluid from rad passes) shoots up then lowers again as temp rises through full system.

Car was just standing as i had multimeter plugged to sensor so couldn't drive it.

Next I went to see what power was going to fans

1. Earth

2. 12v battery

3.?

4.?

I'm guessing one of 3 and 4 is switch for Radiator fan and other is AC fan switch. I've googled a little but unable to find any wire schematics to confirm.

so the following shows what i got:

IG off IG on IG+AC on

1+2 13v 14.2 14.2

1+3 0.33 14.2 14.1

1+4 0 0.08-0.30 0.1-0.30

Car was still warm from earlier (temp above 60°c but not at a temp to activate fans normally??) - AC in cabin doesnt cool at the moment so no change when switching between on/off!

between 1+4 meter showed a constant flux between those values??

Does this shed any light on where a problem might lie, Does anyone know what values we get in a normal operation when fans work correctly?

thanks in advance..

15 May, 2019

3 hours ago, KenONeill said:

OK, so it doesn't actually prove that the CTS is good then, just confirms that the gauge is showing the value the CTS is feeding it.

Yeah. May not be the cts feed. But it's the second brand new one in 6 months so small chance I've had one break and two dud new ones (bought from eurocar parts and other from skoda). At least the feed I got rules out thermostat playing up.

15 May, 2019

16 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Where does it get the data stream it's giving that value from?

I'm unsure where the data comes from as it's a basic plug in tool and doesn't have anything in the manual.

15 May, 2019

15 hours ago, Wino said:

Were the replacement fans new?

They were off another car I stripped down for spares. They did work on the old car as normal.

14 May, 2019

havent got access to vagcom but my old mpg reader shows coolant temp as 94-96 once warmed up and sat. Guess that rules out thermostat playing up?

20 hours ago, Wino said:

It may be worth hooking up to VCDS to see what temperatures the coolant temperature sensor on the head flange is measuring. That might help rule in/out my idea about the thermostat maybe not behaving itself.

14 May, 2019

Cheers I'll have to check the temperature the sensor is picking up first.

Car has a/c I don't get any fan action when switching on and the a/c isn't that cool but does de-mist on cold mornings albeit slower than it used to. Maybe needs a top up but I hadn't got around to it as I rarely use it.

13 May, 2019

These photos are from the original fan that was on the car and is identical to what is on now.

13 May, 2019

I think the thermostat is okay. Temp gauge rises to 90 and never moves. Doesn't struggle to get there and never gone over.

Yeah maybe when unplugged its like an overcautious state. At least I know fan works and power gets to it. It's why I was thinking control unit, hopefully an easy swap out fix.

I'll have a look at the wires soon and let you know.

Thanks.

13 May, 2019

2010 Octavia 140 bkd

So for a while I've noticed my radiator fan doesn't come on and yesterday replaced the coolant flange sensor switch (on the right of the head) to no avail. However when I disconnect this wiring the fan (larger) starts and cycles fast and slow speeds. Connect the switch again and nothing happens (car had been out was hot/running and no kick in of the fan).

I have previously replaced the fans themselves. The smaller a/c fan hasn't run at all as far as I can tell.

also where is the fan control unit located?

thanks in advance.

7 January, 2015

Dads octavia I 's gearbox has gone need a replacement its a fmh box and an asz engine code. Does anyone know which boxes are a direct replacement (other than an fmh)

Thanks in advance

11 July, 2014

So this is the turbo pipe on the egr side as it leaves turbo to go to intercooler

this is the second union after the turbo on the egr side

thing I notice about most turbo issue pictures is the carbon build up always seems dry, mine seems wet?

7 July, 2014

Well after using different cleaners including turbo and catalytic that go in the tank I haven't had any change.

I used a egr cleaner which you spray directly into the air intake in front of the air filter box (after removing the filter), so it travels though the turbo too, and that seemed to improve things for a day or so.

I have since bought an Innotec turbo cleaner and used that yesterday. There is build up on the blades inside the turbo and this loosened some of it (can't see vanes without dismantling) took for a run, got some dirt to come out the exhaust at first, however car still had its loss of power at the top end.

After driving it about today I would say it feels better than it did but I think further cleaning, maybe a terraclean type might be next.

The only other concern I have at the moment is that I think it maybe an oil seal inside the turbo as the aluminium side of the turbo is wet around the air pipe connections. I'll post the pic later to see what people think.

13 June, 2014

It certainly is, with such a drastic loss of power you would expect it to throw something up.

6 June, 2014

I would expect a proper limp mode to bring up something on the dash myself but I don't know what else you would call it? When it happens I lose power, car loses speed on motorway on slightest of gradients and is otherwise guttless. But if I haven't reset it (ignition off/on) and I'm back in town the car pulls away swiftly in low revs but refuses to go past 2,500 or there abouts thus being limited by something (I assume turbo shut off in this case?)

I'm going to try and find time Sunday to get underneath and check pipes which you mentioned.

Cheers for replies.

6 June, 2014

Cheers nick, I have only recently changed the fuel filter (1,400miles ago) although it was quite black, still it didn't change performance of the car.

I feel that your correct in indicating turbo, I just wanted to eliminate cheaper options first. I also priced up a maf when I was thinking about that, Skoda was £130 or so. I knew cheaper options are available but I would try to go for genuine or at least reputable retailers with oem parts as I rely on the car for work.

I've also read about the maf check, that is, disconnect the sensor and see how the car runs. Needs code clearing after, which I can do. But does this cause any other adverse effects with maf as I read somewhere that when disconnecting/ reconnecting the egr sensor that it blows a fuse? Which could just be because they hadn't disconnected battery to do so??

Thanks.

6 June, 2014

Well by no codes I mean that no engine management light and subsequent code. I only have a basic code reader and not a vag com so can't access any previous logged results. I plan on taking it to a garage next week to plug it in, we will see if any saved log can shed light on the fault.

Meanwhile I have the rear wheel sawtooth ing (one tyre only) issue to remedy! Hopefully the shocker I've just replaced sorts that.

6 June, 2014

Hi, for a few months now i have been getting a limp mode scenario normally, but not always, when reaching 60-70 / putting foot down / climbing gradients of varying degrees whist accelerating.

The first time this ever happened was when joining dual carriageway off roundabout accelerating quick to about 55-60 in third approx 3,500 revs.

Most of the times since have been at around the 3,000rpm mark but once or twice in 4th at 1,500rpm or so. I can pull away as quick as the car will allow in 1st 2nd 3rd upto and a little over 3,000 revs with no limp, it just seems to be at higher speeds and gears?

I've read loads of EGR / Limp mode related topics and there are a lot of different reasons and solutions listed.

Myself i've bought some EGR cleaner that sprays in the air intake (after taking filter out) and the next day or two the car seemed smoother when pulling away but never got to dual carriageway at first to test it out at 60-70, until a few days later when it wasnt feeling as smooth anymore anyway!

I've since had the time to remove the lower egr flap which was a little dirty, but I wouldn't say excessive, comments on that??

then i was planning on cleaning upper egr piece and intake manifold but stopped as i wanted to get new gaskets before i removed them. The following is a look inside, at the best angle i could get, at the upper part of the intake pipe above the flap.

it too does look a little dirty but does it look bad enough to restrict air flow??

I will post pics once I have removed intake etc in following weeks but and comments on pics so far or suggestions otherwise would be appreciated, or ask if theres anything i have neglected that would narrow down the options on cause / remedy, thanks.

13 August, 2013

Okay good, one thing crossed off the list!

Thanks

13 August, 2013

Not sure if a piece / flap is supposed to be at the back of the air intake?

It seems that there is a hinge cutout where a flap might sit, is it there on anyone else's, has mine fell off?

Cheers in advance.

10 July, 2013

Hi, had my current car for a few months now (Octavia 2.0TDI 140 FL) I have been using my ipod classic through the mdi cable most of the time I've had it. It has crashed a couple of times but a simple unplug / plug back in has solved it.

Anyway today I had it on and about 5 songs in the music stopped and the radio changed to CD, the mdi input option disappeared from the menu, I unplugged it etc and it won't register on the radio anymore? It still charges the ipod and the phone if i plug them into the mdi just won't show on the radio.

So I decided to plug it into the aux port instead, so I went through the menu activated the aux, it came up in the tabs, top right, plugged ipod in, no sound, so I tried my phone through the aux, again no sound through the radio?

Now both the aux and mdi/ipod are the same tab in the menu and with this problem I am assuming that they must run through the same part of the board in the radio?? Basically i'm wondering if the HU is ..... broken?

Anyone had this problem before?

I factory reset the radio and no change.

Thank in advance for any reply.

Vegas

18 May, 2013

Looks like I might have to start looking at changing the starter next? I changed the battery today for a (new) more heavy duty one but the problem is still there. It takes 2-3seconds before it starts with the key turned. But once cool the engine fires up instantly (as it should).

Is there anything I could get tested before I go to further expense (ie £200 starter motor) on chasing down the problem?

No lights on the dash but I haven't plugged in the code reader yet, which I'll do in the morning but I expect it to be clear.

Thanks in advance.

13 May, 2013

I'll have a look at the part number at the weekend and post it up, cheers.

13 May, 2013

Anyone else had this message pop up before? Does it mean anything?

Seems to happen when I go to start the car with the door/doors open

13 May, 2013

I intend to replace it (battery) by the end of the week and i'll give a shout to the outcome, cheers.

Profiles

Forums

Gallery

Shop

Events

Downloads

Posts posted by vegashc110

Important Information