tommoynihan

Well, after solving it, I will reply to my own problem in case anyone else has a similar issue. I found a good video here. (Yes, I know it is for an Enyaq, but I could find one for a Superb, and it is exactly the same) My connector had the red sliding part stuck in the open position. I suspect that it was like that from new or broken in the past by someone else. I had to lift up a little tab where the connector joins to the handle, and then it just popped off. The red slider seems to slide perfectly when the connector is unplugged, but jams 'open' and not able to operate the tab when the connector is pushed on the handle. Anyway, as a side issue, once I did get the connector off, my Kessy instability problem went away. I suspect that my driver's door handle Kessy part is broken, but I'm not going to buy a new one (for a 13 year old car), and I'm guessing that a secondhand one might have a limited life, so I'm happy to live with the central locking buttons on my kebfobs. Interesting, the boot/hatchback kessy is still working :-). I've got the same kessy fault on ODB-eleven as I had before the disconnection (open-circuit on the drivers door handle), so I'm fine with that.

Hi, can anybody tell me how to remove the connector on the driver's door handle of my Superb II 2010 ? The KESSY system has gone faulty and ODB eleven is pointing me towards the driver's door KESSY aerial. I want to get this 3C0973704 connector off to help with diagnosis, but I don't want to damage it by forcing. I've looked at ALL the Youtube videos for VW type connectors, but this one is different. On the normal VW type 'D' connector you have to push in the connector before you can pull the release tab. On this connector, if you look at the photo of it in-situ in my door, you can see that the connector is hard up against a plastic stop on the other mating side of the connector so you can't 'compress' the joint before you release the tab. On the other stock photos that I have attached you can see that the red release tab always seems to be pushed in all on non-inserted connectors. On my inserted connector photo, the red tab is pulled back, so the logical thing would seem to be to slide the tab in along the axis of the connector so it looks like the other stock photos, however, it just won't budge. It probably isn't helped by me reaching through the speaker hole to try to do this with one hand 😞 . Maybe I need to take the door handle out (if I can) so I can get access with two hands ? Anybody done this before ?

Since it is my son's car, I hadn't even bothered to look for such a switch, On my Superb, all the mirror controls, electric window controls, and door locking controls are on the driver's armrest, and I had just assumed that his car wasn't so equipped, but I've just nipped out and the car does have central lock and unlock switches down by the bottom of the gear lever. In summary, the lock and unlock switches work for the rear doors and tailgate, and have no effect on either of the 'keyed' doors. To be honest, this is in line with the diagnostic help that I have been getting from @Breezy_Pete and @billwin. The method of agitating the doors at the same time operating the key on the opposite side of the car did suggest that the motor control in at least the driver's door could be made to work by the agitation, and thus needed repairing/replacing. You may be right about the passenger door motor PCB or other internal being damaged as the wires were actually broken on that door hinge, and we couldn't get that wake up during 'agitation'. I aim (Coronation fun and oaths permitting) to get at least the passenger one off and open this weekend and see what goodies lie therein. Will post the results.

@billwin Apologies, I now understand that you were to the 'normal' and 'thumping' methods. As @Breezy_Pete suggested, I'm going to take off the passenger side one first as if that can be repaired or replaced, then it gets the car to a normal workable situation. and we can then consider if we want to do anything about the driver's side (or wait for it to deteriorate). Do you happen to know if the part number for the lock mechanism changed between to Mk1 and the Mk2, as this car is an early Mk,2

@billwinUnfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, his car doesn't have central locking on a key fob. To be accurate, he wasn't given a central locking fob by the previous owner so we just assumed it didn't. I agree that if it did, it might help with the diagnosis. All I have got is the anomalous behaviour when I put the key in either door lock as originally described. @Breezy_Pete Well, I finally got a child up from the horizonal, and got them bashing on each door just below the handle as I operated the key on the lock on the opposite side of the car. When the passenger side was agitated, it made no difference to the behaviour. When the drivers side was agitated, we could get intermittent locking and unlocking of the drivers door by operating the passenger lock. This would suggest to me that the drivers door motor mechanism looks to be faulty/suspect. The passenger side could obviously still be faulty, but if so, more severely. I had stripped off the trim from the passenger door to look an unrelated speaker problem, and the door is not like the door that I have seen in other threads about the door locks. It does not have a very large window regulator plate riveted in, It has a 'normal' size window regulator plate in the middle of the door and it is screwed/bolted in. The is also a hole in the top left of the passenger door about where the door handle is. I've looked behind it and there is no sign of any motor mechanism just below the door handle. That said, agitating to door did make a difference on the driver's door, but I'm guessing that it was the general 'bashing' vibrations that made their way back to wherever the motor is, I'll have to have a look around and see if I can find out where the motor is located. I would presume that it should be very close to the door lock but it is evading me at the moment.

Accessing a test child now .... Will report back once the moaning is complete.

@Breezy_Pete Yes it does (at the front), and yes they do work. I also scanned with ODBeleven again, but no new information I'm afraid,

@Breezy_Pete Well, I am very sad to say that after repairing 2 wires and re-insulating 5 other wires on the passenger loom, and then re-inspecting the driver loom and finding cracks in the insulation on 4 wires UNDER the cloth tie that hold them all together and re-insulating them too, that it has made absolutely no difference to the locking behaviour :-(.

@Breezy_Pete Yes, perhaps the driver's side has been replaced. We only know the history of the last 5 years. Will update once I have finished soldering ....

@Breezy_PeteWell the driver's door loom looks fine. The passenger much less so. Picture attached. Two wires broken and at least 4 others damaged. Great design, but many thanks for the diagnosis ! On my Superb twinboot, once I had repaired it, I threatened all of my family to never let me catch them using it as a boot, but only as a tailgate (which means we can't use the button on the keyfob). Is there an way of stopping this happening again once repaired (other that climbing in through the tailgate) ? If I wrap lots of pvc tape round it is that just going to push the 'flex' elsewhere ? Why is the passenger door loom shredded and the driver's door loom look perfect ? Surely the use factor should suggest it should be the other way round ?

@Breezy_Pete Thanks for that info. That is indeed a possible/plausible explanation. Sound like I'm on the joyous Skoda broken wiring loom hunt again. As a side question, I presume that the central convenience unit can be enabled for remote control on some models ? If the car were equipped with remote control central locking (in future) it would maybe provide easier diagnosis as it would provide a third way of locking/unlocking the car that independent of the door locking mechanism and door wiring ?

@Crasher - ODBeleven reports no faults @toot According to the V5 it is a Fabia 1 HTP 70 first registered in September 2007 @Breezy_Pete Yes - I have read some of your discussions with other members about failure of the loom in this area. I am no stranger to problems of this type as I have a Superb II with the twin folding tailgate/boot which I have had to repair. I may well have to resort to this type of inspection, but I was trying to apply some logic before I started to 'poke and hope'. I can't understand why the two doors with keyholes would be able to control themselves and the rear doors and tailgate but not each other UNLESS there was some dedicated connectivity between these two 'master' doors that had broken. If so, I suppose that could be explained by your broken wire theory/experience ?

My son's Fabia has developed a fault with the door locks, and I'm looking for a clue where to start. The car has key locking only (it didn't come with a remote and I don't know if the feature was ever fitted). The issue is that using the key, the driver's door will lock and unlock all of the doors with the exception of the passenger door, and the key used in the passenger door will lock and unlock all of the doors with the exception of the driver's door. Anybody got any ideas where to start with that fault ?