poolfan

A friend had an ELM 327 WiFi adpater, so I scanned the car for fault codes. The fault code associated with the flashing glow worm seems to be P2563. From Ross Tech website, this states the following. Anyone know what my net step should be - for example, go back to garage and ask them - presumably thi is the same fault code they would have seen during their troubleshooting orginally and when I returned? 8995/P2563/009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit: Implausible Signal Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) ON Power Loss Possible Causes Wiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) faulty Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty Binding Issues due to Adjustment/Turbocharger Excessive Carbon build-up Vacuum Leak from/to Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator and Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) Possible Solutions Check/Replace Fuses Check Wiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581) Check Vane Position Sensor (G581) Perform Ohm Test Check Mechanical Turbocharger Operation Rule out binging and excessive Carbon build-up Check Vacuum Supply from/to Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) and Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator

I've had a flashing glowworm fault light intermittently for last number of weeks on a 2010 CR170 engine. The issue kicked off maybe 3months ago when I noted limp mode, dropped it into local garage, where they diagnosed a faulty solenoid valve which was replaced. The glow work intermittent flashing light has followed since, I've dropped car back, they believe there is nothing wrong with the valve that was replaced, they suspect that it is the turbo itself that is failing (125k miles on odometer). No further info provided. They said that DPF regen will not happen with glow worm flashing, however once it is not on for every jouney (currently it is on every other journey in frequency), so that regen is happening frequently, no need to worry too much about it unless fault light stays on continuously. Anyone any advice on what next step should be, whether I should push to get this fixed sooner rather than later?

Hi Rustynuts. I managed to remove the 2CD's, unfortunately both scratched in process. however first one forced the two grey tabs on rotating device that were preventing Cd from being extracted, now mechanism is knackered. When I try to load a working CD, mechanism is dead, so presumably a new drive is required. I've no idea of their spec or availability locally, so can I take you up on buying a new one from you as you offered? I can PM you my address and sort out PP payment with you that way? Cheers!

thanks Rustynuts for offer, however based in ireland. Looks like its a DIY fix so. So it's just the top most cover I need to remove, so presumably just the torx screws on top. I'll have a go at that tomorrow so. Like you mention I'll remove the DVD drive, remove the disks, and if still working replace the drive, else replace the rive, which I presume I cn pick up on flebay or somewhere similar.

Thanks Rustynuts for offer. However I'm based in Ireland, so looks like it's a DIY job. If it's just a matter of taking torx screws from top of unit to take off top cover and remove drive then get at those pesky Cd's, I'll have a go tomorrow. Best case, I get them out and resinstall drive all working. Else I'll be without a drive for a week until I get a new one - would you possibly be able to advise what spec drive fits the columbus? Thanks again!!

Hi, I rarely use the CD player on Columbus in my 2010 Superb II. I had a CD to load, pressed eject, nothing came out. Then loaded CD, mechanism fed it in however there was a little resistance, however as tried to eject, presumed was nothing to worry about. Turns out there was a DVD in there from years ago. I'm guessing I pressed eject during start-up of unit and didn't give it enough time eject and forced an extra cd in. The DVD is playing. When I press the eject button, I can't get the a disk out, mechanism is moving, however get a "CD/DVD" error. I've tried to peer inside, however the slot is small and covered, so can't make out anything inside. Also tried to use another cd to coax out the 2nd CD. I've pulled out the Columbus unit from dash but however nothing to see besides the casing of unit. I'm presuming it will be necessary for me to open up the columbus unit casing and physically remove the discs? Any advice on this and if opening up the Columbus casing is straightforward, or if specialist tools are required to sort out. I'd prefer to do myself if easy, else a trip to an ICE specialist and associated cost is required. Thanks in advance

could you please post the part number for loom?

Hi, could you post the details of the loom please. I'm looking at assembling parts for this repair Option 1 - heat shrink crimp connectors to repair loom, using something like these, not sure of wire gauge though. Could someone advise if I add in a series of these for all wires, will there be enough space for these wires to move in the space provided or is this too restrictive a fix?Option 2 - replace wiring loom, price and complexity permitting. Thanks

thanks for reply. I only here it the once, on full lock of wheel to the right only, don't hear it again as I straighten the wheel after making the turn. I'll check the wheel nuts ths afternoon.

Hi, Can anyone diagnose what this may be. When I lock the wheel to the right e.g. when making a 90degree turn at low speed, I hear a clunking noise every time, noticed this over last couple of weeks. I don't recall this in car previously. I don't hear this when I lock steering wheel to the left. Cheers

Only stating what I heard 2nd hand from my wife. The fix was as stated, just to rev the crap out of the engine, presumably to burn off excess fuel from wherever. I'll let those more in the know to deciphher the real cause.

Hi, Forgot to reply back to the original reply. the car is a diesel common rail. The problem turned out to be a flooded engine apparaently, fixed by turning the ignition to keep ignition turning over and pressing down the accelerator and revving the *** out of engine to burn off fuel, or so my wife told me what the call out mechanic did. Simple as that. If your light is on and car is allowing you to continue to drive, then that is a different problem that I had.

Hi, I've searched through the threads and haven't found anything that matches the problem I'm facing. Upon start of ignition, the Exhaust inspection system amber light comes on on left hand instrument cluster (Superb II 2010 reg). The car ignition turns over but will not start, even if I leave ignition turned for 3-4seconds. I've scanned for faults using VCDS and found nothing of note. Anyone any advice - I intend to get it towed to a garage tomorrow, but just wondering if anyone here can shed any light on what it may be?