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adurer

Non-Supporting Trader
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About adurer

  • Rank
    Felicia for life

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Psychology, IT, electronics, mechanics, secret services.
  • Location
    Poland, Warsaw

About You

  • Car
    1997 Felicia 1.3, 135 type engine

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  1. I agree with dohnjoe. That could explain also the high fuel consumption you wrote me about. Does your car had an easy life? Or did you push it often over the limit? At over 160 km/h I would expect the engine to scream for mercy... that is if your speedometer shows the right speed.
  2. Your idea is better, I agree. Do you have any old car around to put it in practice? I would be very interested to know how hard a thief armed with a crowbar should have to fight with the door. Maybe you can issue a pattent too, or at least reinforce car doors for the right price. Here is the last method to break in a car. Conclusion: if any anti-theft method fails, my last resort is this:
  3. Yes, I do. Exactly the same power needed by a central locking actuator. Slide a rod then disconnect. It's not like you keep the frame in place by a giant electromagnet, which by the way would drain the battery in 5 minutes.
  4. I don't understand why there is no solution for that corner of the frame. Are all engineers out of ideas? I am throwing one in: an electromagnetic actuated latch coupled to central locking. With some ingenuity it could result a functional, strong, esthetic latch.
  5. Leaving aside the jokes, that is an interesting question. Considering a very documented thief, how much time would he need to disable the immobilizer on Felicia and drive away?
  6. Fair question. This topic is about making break-ins as difficult as possible for a reasonable cost. It is assumed the car has a basic alarm system with shock and lift sensors. Exactly.
  7. Yeah... quite scary how easy it is. To do: - remove unlock buttons (I never use them anyways) - add an extra latch on the upper corner of door window frame to prevent any wedge insertion (solid or inflatable)
  8. Nobody said that removing door locks and anti-theft foil for windows will solve all security issues. I mentioned preventing/discouraging theft. For car-lifting and towing we have alarms systems, right? And we're talking about Felicia, not a BMW X5. I would like to see somebody dum enough to lift/tow a Felicia with the alarm howling for ever... One detail in case you didn't know: the window foil I'm talking about is not the privacy foil, it is a sledgehammer resist foil. What is the point of having a security box? Keeping your wedding ring or Raybans safe while being left with windows shattered and broken locks? Come on, people, try thinking out of the box. Really :o why?
  9. In case my original message was not clear enough, I will add a visual representation of things I would like to avoid. I hope that I amnmot the only one interested in preventing/discouraging a crowbar-type car break-in that could happen to anyone.
  10. I am opening this topic hoping that in the end will become a guide for securing our cars better. In our days, car thieves don't care much of any car alarm system, because they use brute force to break in and steal whatever they find valuable. In fact I think the best feature of any car alarm system is the possibility to find your car in large parking lots. As I said, thieves from middle to low value cars, as Felicia, don't use sophisticated scanners to disable their alarm systems. They use a crowbar instead or a hammer to attack door locks and/or windows and snatch the objects of interest regardless of any howling from the alarm. That is why I am interested in technical details, tips, manufacturers data, maybe even photos from more experienced mechanics and electricians that could explain how to: - remove all door locks and the boot lock - apply a hammer-resistant foil on windows
  11. The 'dish' is called air filter housing or box. To open it you'll have to remove the top cover nuts (4) and to release all the clamps around the edge. Now we'll have to figure out what is the 'sponge' air filter.
  12. The same things I wrote above applies to injection engines. The only difference is that ECU adjusts for idle speed drop. In a very broad way, a carburettor works like a computer using clever electrical, mechanical, and vacuum-driven devices instead of a CPU, a Flash memory, a firmware, sensors, and step-by-step motors.
  13. Idle slightly rising is a good sign. It means the carburettor's idle boost mechanism compensates for a sudden vacuum loss, like the quick brake pedal pumping. A bad sign would be the tendency to stall the engine; that would indicate a 1-way valve faulty or the brake booster diaphragm faulty. As mentioned above, the brake booster is one of many systems that 'feed' on manifold vacuum. Any leak in those systems could result in a rough idle. As a thumb rule, only what is below the throttle valve should be checked for vacuum leaks. Here comes VERY handy a smoke machine.
  14. The only Felicia engine having steel rods all around that I know of is 135 with carburettor, legacy from Favorit.
  15. If you have some spare time, have a look at relay/fuse panel too. Even better, disconnect the negative battery cable and take the panel out for a closer inspection. WD40 does wonders on relay, fuse and connector contacts. We have 15 year old cars after all and it is reasonable to asume some corrosion occured.