Mysticality

I've attached a pic of an Aussie-spec Ambition with Sports Pack. I think this is what you're after.

Bumping... Looking at either Sachs kit or Valeo kit. Thoughts??

You should do it

A light, no limp mode. All a-okay. Even coded it out with a standard OBD-II bluetooth adaptor from my windows phone Apparently blanking the EGR doesn't do much for CR engines anyway, so I'm just leaving mine out.

Deeper exhaust note, MUCH faster turbo spool up when revving from idle (both super obvious if you have upgraded intake/exhaust but still noticable if not, especially from outside the car), 950rpm idle vs 750rpm and *slightly* quicker accelleration If you do some highway k's it should keep the DPF nice and clean. Flooring it a bit (drag race off the lights anyone?) once or twice a week will also help a little.

So, after 163,000km of loyal service, my VW specialist garage (Camden GTI) has told me its time for a new clutch. (To be fair, clutch is fine, DMF is just starting to chatter but will have a learner driving it so SMF kit time!) Help! Don't know what to choose, too many available and don't want to buy the wrong thing. 2012 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI (CEGA/02Q) Stage 2 tune, planning on hybrid turbo eventually I do a *lot* of k's, car is 2yr4mo old, 250km in a day is a quiet day So... Suggestions on what and where to buy? Have been told to get an SMF (single mass flywheel) and all the literature I've found online supports this, while there will be more chatter (I have a 98duro torque arm insert anyway so chatter is terribad anyway) it'll be quicker off the line and the engine will rev more happily. Main thing is it has to be cheap. Not cheap and nasty cheap, but cheap enough to not break the bank... which is not terribly large. Cheers, -Matt Pic of car!

The drainage hole goes down onto the rear of the wheel underneath it

If you're talking about going down hill and the engine suddenly loses power - its because your foot is only down so far. I.E. You're in 4th, at 1,450rpm. You go down a hill, speeding up a little bit because of the decline, the engine is now going 1,550rpm. The car loses all power as the engine cuts the fuel off, because you're only pushing the throttle down far enough to warrant 1,500rpm. Watch the instant MPG or L/100km gauge, see what it says. If it suddenly hits --.- or 0.0 then you know thats what it is. It'll also be the same feeling as takign the throttle all the way off and just engine braking.

Wow, a red diesel vRS! That looks awes-- Oh... Good to know thats what it takes to break the mounts on the rear mud flaps though - they're bloody solid! Sorry for your loss. :( :(

I'm on my 5th BCM (body control module) in a July 2011 build - technically MY12. I got the Xenon setting coded and took the plunge - reinstalling some brand new 55W HID's... Zero problems so far.

You can walk the walk, but can you talk the torque? I think not. Rev counter - redline for diesel 5k RPM, red line for petrol 7k RPM. Petrol exhaust tips probably black, diesel exhaust tips probably shiny/clean. TDI rev counter goes up in 500rpm incriments because there is more space to fill in the gauge than the TSI. EDIT: Also, if the car goes up hill and you see it shift (either driver moving or slight lag in performance) then its a petrol, because the diesels are better at life. :P

Because its already an FL, the LED's all work properly etc The wiring could be interesting - whats the plug look like that actually goes into the headlight unit? Hmm, and the tray the headlights slide into to actually lock them in... No cornering function - bog standard halogen units!

I'm planning on that for mine, too!

Perfect!!! How?!

Get 55W 5000K and set the headlight dipper dial to 0.5 to fix the higher cutoff due to the different shape of the bulb. Also, get the car coded for Xenon *BEFORE* you install the HID's. Car will be fine with Xenon box checked, but with halogen lights installed. It was 25,000km for me, between getting the car coded and actually installing the HID's I had lying around. (I do very high km's)