arthurd123

Thanks for the tip iriches, I have read on another post here the belt needs replacing every 140,000 miles or 5 years whichever comes sooner right?

Hey PetrolDave, Many thanks for you clarification, just goes to show how much I know about engines and which car is fitted with what. In that case you put my mind at ease, it seems the engine I have picked to begin with was indeed a very good choice. I was warned by a friend from abroad but he didn't give anything specific to work with just the 1.4 TSI engine. I have read the early version had issue with the timing chain as you say (EA111), glad the Octy was fitted with the timing belt version. Thanks all for contributing to this post already I really appreciate your time and help you have provided so far. This community is awesome!

Hi there, It's been a long time since I came back to this great forum. A lot has happened on the car front as I have moved around from brand to brand. I'm looking at purchasing a second hand Octy anything up from 2014 onwards with as low mileage as possible. I'm especially looking at the 1.4 TSI engine version. My work is only few miles down the road so a diesel is out the question here. I use to own MK2 2.0 TDI PD which was a fantastic car despite few issues along the way. I'm looking to commute to work in this car and an occasional trip to mainland europe. I have read a lot of bad things about the 1.4 TSI and this includes timing chain and injector problems. I know there were recalls and this engine is not as new as it was hence VAG addressed these issues. I suppose I would like to know if this engine is reliable enough or shall I be looking for something else? Many thanks for your replies in advance.

Thanks for your prompt reply I had my DMF and release bearing replaced two years ago now. I've read other VAG cars especially the BKD engines having similar issues, no one has got it resolved so it looks like the radio volume needs to go up!

Perhaps someone can shed some light on this... I own a rather old 2005 Octy 2.0 TDI PD (BKD engine). The car has now done approximately 165K I have just had the drivers side CV joint replaced, I collected the car and took for a drive everything seems ok apart from when I change into 5th. I can hear a short whine coming from the engine bay. It's really hard to pin point the exact location of where it's coming from but definitely the engine bay. I was on a dual carriage way, doing about 40-50 mhp when shifting into 5th there is a very muffled whine, it reminds me of going over motorway markings (very annoying sound) and lasts only a short while. As soon as the clutch is fully depressed it goes away, definitely not happening in 4th or 6th. I tried to troubleshoot this by engaging the clutch pedal and releasing it in 5th speed dependant it seems louder when doing about 50 mph. Any ideas?

2005 2.0 TDI 163K - still going strong have done turbo, clutch and ac compressor in the last three years other than that showing spots of rust on the sills which I have been taking care of...

Right as far what the AC guy told me it could be leaking in two places the pressure valve or the condenser, had my condenser replaced 4 years ago now by the same guy still going strong. If the refrigerant pressure is too low the fans wouldn't of kicked in I believe try plugging it to VCDS and get some Measuring Blocks on it and perhaps look for any fault codes on the HVAC controller.

Didn't blow cold air through them hence the temps are a bit high forgot to check that at the time was too excited that it actually worked Thanks again Trev I'm sure I'll be back at some point...

The AC guy came today and sucked all the moisture out, filled it up with refrigerant and boom the AC is working checked it with VCDS and getting 1-2C from the top vents have not blown cold air through the footwell vents so not sure how cold they would get. Address 08: Auto HVAC (1Z0 907 044 H) 19:50:53 Group 001: General 0.0 Compressor Shut-Off Code 800 /min Engine Speed 0.0 km/h Vehicle Speed 01:44 Standing Time 19:50:53 Group 002: Compressor 0.575 A Compressor Current (actual) 0.570 A Compressor Current (specified) 1000 /min Compressor Rotations 3.9 Nm Compressor Load 19:50:53 Group 005: Outlet/Footwell Blower Temperature 1.0°C Left Outlet Blower Temperature 1.0°C Right Outlet Blower Temperature 9.0°C Left Footwell Blower Temp. 13.0°C Right Footwell Blower Temp. All in all I saved £160 pounds, I also replaced the the smaller radiator fan, the call out charge for the first AC diagnostics guy, the compressor and refill. Took a while but got there in the end now it's probably be cold and miserable knowing my luck I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread I wouldn't have done it without you, especially @Aston_Bodger and @Wino !

Hey Trev, Thanks for clarifying, I have installed the eBay ac compressor this evening, to be honest the sticker said Sigma JP Model 8680 looks like like it was rebranded by a distributor AVA. I suppose you get what you pay for, have also replaced the smaller radiator fan, tested it all working as intended. The guys who sold me the compressor advised they put in 150ml of oil inside. Funny enough my old compressor looked completely dry, there wasn’t a drop of oil coming out at all. Since this was the case I didn’t drain the new compressor I only installed it. Got the AC guy coming in Monday to refill and do whatever else needs to be done. Oh yeah forgot to mention the compressor came with new o rings so changed those as well. Fingers crossed for Monday

Got the ac compressor it doesn't say how much oil it requires on the sticker nor in the documentation. What is the best way to do this? Do I just empty the old one and add the same amount to the new one? Just to add the new one comes with oil already inside. I don't want to damage the internals of the new compressor I have an AC guy coming over on Monday but the car needs to be used in the meantime... Trev 800ml is a lot of oil if you ask me....

Thanks again Trev... appreciated The system is empty yes in-fact I had more gas in there than I should have apparently. He gave me the print out afterwards. It didn’t seem he took all the oil out as well I need to find the print out first and confirm. Have ordered the new compressor should be able to change it next weekend. I think I have read somewhere that you should empty both compressors measure how much came out of the old one and and top the new one with the same amount. Then again I could be wrong. Obviously it must have some oil in there so the new compressor stays lubricated etc...

Ok panic over this is from Valeo site:

Trev, Thanks for the reply.... Now I have come to another issue the old compressor has ZXL100PG oil in it which means the system has wrong oil in it as Sanden's come with PAG46..... I just ordered the other one as well.... bloody hell!

I was just thinking that I will return the control valve as not fitted and get the compressor, I'm going for the one from eBay can't complain at £156. Do you know if these need to be filled with PAG46 oil? I asked the seller he told me it already comes with oil inside it. Assuming I have oil inside the system already so I'm not completely sure how much I need to put in etc...