jverdicchio

Follow-up. I checked the fan again after my wife had arrived home with blue feet. Even directly wired to the battery it didn't spin. I went over the voltage from the fan connector, they all showed 13V. OK, the fan was broken. Ordered a new fan on eBay. Wow! A working fan and a warm car.

Bit more information: if I put a volt meter across the main +/- leads to the blower resistor, I get 12V. I also get 12V out of the resistor to the fan. So, why doesn't the fan spin if it does spin if I connect it directly to the battery?

My blower stopped working. Checked all the fan related fuses. All seemed OK. Stuck VAGCOM on the car: Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels:| 5K0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3T0 907 044 AR HW: 3T0 907 044 AR Component: Climatronic H15 0401 Revision: 00005001 Coding: 0000000002 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatronic A01006 ROD: EV_ClimaAutoBasis_SK35.rod VCID: 020B568E95530C83DD-8056 1 Fault Found: 9485974 - Air Blower B10BE 96 [009] - Component Internal Failure [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 94 Reset counter: 163 Mileage: 236701 km Date: 2023.10.28 Time: 10:04:21 Something to do with the blower. Folllowed this useful video to access the blower. Attached the fan directly to the battery. It spins really fast. OK, it's the "resistor" unit that varies the speed. So, order a new unit. Nop, still no working fan. Anyone got any other suggestions?

I've just been informed that the car I ordered 6th October 2021 is due to built week commencing 17th October 2022. Bizarre, we cancelled the order just after Russia invaded Ukraine...But, perhaps good news for someone else.

My wife came home from doing the shopping and stated the "boot won't open". Having looked on this forum for possible clues: fuses, loose wiring, actuator issues ; I did the following: checked the fuses - didn't really need to as the central locking worked, it was just the boot but I thought I should check just in case. Take the actuator off the boot and try with a separate 12V supply - that was working. Reassemble. Stick a screwdriver shaft in the boot lock mechanism when the boot is open so the car thinks the boot is closed. You can then test the boot open mechanism. The actuator moved "a bit" but not enough to open the the boot. Weird. Take the actuator off the boot again and notice that the swing arm the mechanism moves moved freely push from the non-actuator side but was rather stiff from where the actuator would push. Apply WD40 to the actuator and plenty of grease to the arm pivot. Success! It seems that over time the swing arm pivot had worn, enough that the actuator didn't have enough force to push the arm. Rather please it cost me nothing but time and some grease.

Ordered an Enyaq 60 on 7th October through MotorFinity Leasing. I asked about an update in mid-January and got this reply: Whilst we have placed the order through a dealer, the dealer is waiting for Skoda to confirm the order on the new Enyaq models. Once the factory confirms the order, it will move to status 10 – which means we wait on a build week. Once we are two weeks from this planned build we would expect your car to move to confirmed build, status 20. At this point we know exactly the week your car will be built. This information will filter through from Skoda. Status 40 is confirmation we have your car in the UK and at this point we will be given a ETA to the dealer, usually 7-10 days eta. Once on site we can confirm, book delivery with yourself. Whilst the above may seem vague the processes usually move through and happen in time for April, I am not worried at this stage on the ETA.

I ordered mine through motorfinityleasing, try 01636 556858. If you are a teacher, it appears there are good deals to be had. Different manufacturers go after different market segments. If you work for a large employer, you may have a benefit to be had, also mention your spouse's employer. If you can get something through a salary sacrifice that would be even better.

doctored Some helpful comments. What you're saying about tariff in the future makes a great deal of sense. The day rate for the intelligent-octopus is 23.76p /kWh. That is quite a bit more than I'm going to be paying with British Gas (People's Energy was my supplier until recently). If I calculate my current usage and estimates for the car and compare the Octopus costs against British Gas, British Gas wins. I'm a heavy day user of electricity - work from home with computers + several marine fish tanks (heaters + pumps) and a hot-tub. Yeah, hot-tubs are expensive to run! If got rid of the fish and the hottub then that cheap night rate would probably make sense. Actually, you make me think: I read an article about people who "store" cheap energy to use later. I could over-heat the hottub at night on the cheap electricity, so when it's cooling down during the morning , it's actually at the correct temperature rather than cool. I think some more calculations are required. You make a good point!

Good timing on this discussion. I'm investigating the home charging labyrinth at the moment. I spoke to a home automation installer (who also does chargers) and he said "Zappi", works well with solar. So, I contacted to get some quotes. Two quotes have come back both over £800 (Tethered 7kW unit). Have heard that PodPoint are also good. That seems to be coming in around the £600 mark for a tethered 7kW unit. So, what do I get for my extra £200? The ability to charge using my excess solar. OK, so what is my solar output? I have a 3.25kW system for reference. I've kept good records since my solar was put in back in October 2012. Recording the meter output monthly over this time I'm getting through the summer months about 15kWh/day. This drops to around 3kWh in the winter. The Enyaq 60 has a 62kWh battery. If I left the car attached all day during the summer I'd only get a quarter "free" charge of the battery. During the winter it's almost not worth bothering with. I conclude that I'll save my £200 and putting it towards my electricity bill.

I should add A) Calling the main dealer turned out to be a waste of time. I was told £33 and that someone would call me back. They never did. My friendly, local garage ordered the part for me and it was only £30.Original VW part as well.

I'd be interested to know if that Octopus agile tariff is going to save you money? It seems a bit like the old Economy 7 , the night rates are cheap but the day rates are significantly more expensive. You have to be using much less day electricity and all you electricity at night and I thought that the Octopus tariff only went between 00:30 and 05:30 (not enough for a full charge). Hmm, time to do some research.

I've ordered my Enyaq through a leasing company. The chap I was talking to at the leasing company has had an electric car for 5 years. His advice on wallboxes was "don't go tethered". The leads may change at some point in the future. If you get a tethered box then you'd have to change the box. Untethered, just plug in a new lead. There can be an issue with the earthing arrangements for a wall-box. Good ones don't require a separate earth spike (a TT earth arrangement) if you have a TN-CS earth to your consumer unit. I'd suggest as some background on this subject. as I've ordered my Enyaq through a leasing company. The chap I was talking to at the leasing company has had an electric car for 5 years. His advice on wallboxes was "don't go tethered". The leads may change at some point in the future. If you get a tethered box then you'd have to change the box. Untethered, just plug in a new lead. There can be an issue with the earthing arrangements for a wall-box. Good ones don't require a separate earth spike (a TT earth arrangement) if you have a TN-CS earth to your consumer unit. I'd suggest as some background on this subject. as

Hello everyone. I've just ordered an Enyaq 60 on 7th October and have been told the waiting time is 6 months - late March early April. I contacted the lease company to see if I could request all-year winter tires and told that I can only spec what's on the options list. However, once the tires go below 2mm the maintenance package allows me to change the tires to my own choice. Looking forward to my first electric car.

I phoned the local parts shop and they didn't have the part. The main dealer has quoted me £33.and it's a special order. But, just to be safe I've I've managed to get at the other sensor and measure the resistance. 14C 13k Ohm finger temp 10k Ohm my "dodgy" sensor - 3k Ohm So, explains everything.

I was hoping not to take the rest of the dashboard apart. But, good point.

I've found 1 sensor on the LHS air vent very near the centre vents; behind the radio. It looks like a thermistor. Anyone know what it should read if all is working correctly?

Our 2010 Skoda Octavia 1.6 TDi (Climatronic) only produces heat from the floor vents and front-facing vents on the LH (passenger side) if the temperature gauge is set at max. Set it to 26C and it just blows cold air. Going into the measurement block in VAGCOM had left front vent temperature probe reading 71C whereas the rest of the car was around 30C. Reading on Forums about the AC , this seems to make sense: unless you ask for max then the controller thinks you're already warm enough. The air isn't 70C so I'm thinking a duff sensor. My question is where is the left front vent temperature probe ? A search in Google of " skoda octavia left front vent temperature probe location" gives no obvious or even unobvious replies. There were no fault codes from VAGCOM. Of course, if anyone has any other suggestions as to the cause, I'm pleased to listen. This doesn't seem to be a very common issue from looking at forums or Google not attempting to sell me the correct sensor.

Miles when brought: 107,200 24th March. Miles when my trusted garage fixed 113,514 ~10th December . 6314 miles. We live in deepest Derbyshire. There is no salt water anywhere near us. It wasn't a particularly cold Spring so the roads weren't being gritted very much.

Possibly, this is what I need: https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-used-car/ Quote: If you can prove the car was faulty when you bought it, the trader must pay for a repair. You have legal rights for up to 6 years (5 years if you bought the car in Scotland), but only if you can show that you didn’t cause the fault. The longer you’ve had the car, the harder it will be to prove that the problem was there when the trader sold it to you. Plus, you’ll only have legal rights if the car is not: ‘of satisfactory quality’ - it should do what you’d expect for its age, mileage, price and type ‘fit for purpose’ - eg if you asked for a car that would pull a caravan, it has to be able to do that ‘as described’ - it has to match the advert or the description the trader gave you So, I just have to prove the car was in this state when I brought it. Comes back to the "Expert Witness".

I have already contacted the garage and they are claiming the "too much time passed" argument. I suspect that I would need a Materials Science expert with knowledge of corrosion in cars to give a sworn "expert verdict" in order to move this forward. Yep, the law has a lot of wriggle room in cases like this. Anyone know an "Expert Witness" willing to make a statement?

All I contacted DVSA and here is the key part of their reply: "Thank you for your email enquiry dated 12 December 2020, concerning the MOT. DVSA is concerned to receive any complaints where it is alleged that a test certificate has been improperly issued but in order that action can be taken it is essential that the matter should be reported as soon as possible after the test, and before repair work has been carried out. I regret that the fact that the vehicle has had repair work carried out, precludes our taking any action in an appeal against the test result in this case. However, your concerns regarding the MOT garage have been forwarded to the appropriate Regional Intelligence Unit for your area for further investigation." I note from this that if you have concerns about the MOT then DO NOT fix the problem and leave everything as it is on the car. Obviously, thank is going to be difficult in many cases if that car is your main mode of transport. Whilst I was paying the garage bill, their MOT section were being inspected by DVSA. The inspector was happy to talk about this incident and had these wise words (paraphrased). 1. MOT stations are not obliged to put advisories on the MOT certificate - they should do. 2. Take the MOT as quite a low bar as far as car condition is concerned. It only means it was good to be on the road the moment the inspector inspected the car. 3. If you can't fully inspect the car yourself then as soon as you get the car home take it to a garage (you trust) and get them to look over it. 4. DVSA won't entertain looking at corrosion problems after 3 months from the MOT. 5. If the car has less than 100,000 miles on the clock you might be able to go back to the manufacturer. After 100,000 miles - no chance. So, a learning experience. I hope it can help others not make the mistakes I made...

Thank you everyone. I've contacted the DVLA over this and will keep you all updated with what they have to say. Anyone in the market for some "used" rear suspension arms?

The pictures you can see are taken of the rear suspension from a 2010 Octavia. We brought the car in late March this year from a garage. The garage had put the car through its MOT and had no advisories on the MOT. Indeed, this was one of the key reasons we brought the car was its very clean bill of health. My wife phoned me on the way home from work last week noting the car was "all over the road". My initial thought was " perhaps the tyres are flat". It's only when she got home and I took the wheel off I found this. My local and trusted garage ended up changing both suspension arms. I can't believe that this much corrosion could occur in 8 months. I welcome any comment.

Wino, you're a star! Thank you very much.

In the mean time, can I damage the car driving it with the EGR valve not functioning correctly?