Hi all,

I know there was a thread on this subject a while back but cannot find it, so here goes.

I will be fitting a boost gauge soon and need to know the best way of tapping into some wires. I know scotch lock are a very easy way of doing this but these are shunned upon on here, so what other methods are there?

Pics would be helpful too.

My favoured way where possible is to make a splitter lead up and tap in at a connector, then you can remove it afterwards without damage. That depends on getting the connectors though.

Scotchloks are dodgy- they don't always make properly and can cut through some of the cable you tap into.

I used the 3M scotchlock thingies that came with the kit I got. They were crap! But all I had at the time, and I wanted the job done.

They work fine, but I wouldn't have used them given the choice. I would have gotten some bullet connectors, and fitted them inline with a tap but meh.

Get some bullet connectors mate, obviously make sure they have the plastic or silicone casings on them.

Cheers i have already got some i can use but will it be ok to put 2 wires into 1 bullet?

My favoured way where possible is to make a splitter lead up and tap in at a connector, then you can remove it afterwards without damage. That depends on getting the connectors though.

yeah that's a good way of doing it, the connectors are available from skoda, BUT the terminals are near impossible to get

I have loads of heat shrink you can have to put over the connections to make if perfect afterwards

I would suggest soldering the cable into the connectors then wrapping it after.

Kind Regards

Garry

FYI

I was told by a skoda dealers that the scotch locks were the only way I could wire anything in without breaking the T+C's of the warranty.

Their words were something like "As long as you don't cut or solder any wires"

Just thought would mention it as I'm not sure if your in your warranty period or not.

HTH

I have loads of heat shrink you can have to put over the connections to make if perfect afterwards

I would suggest soldering the cable into the connectors then wrapping it after.

Kind Regards

Garry

Cheers Garry, very kind of you but hopefully there is a chance of fitting this weekend so I'll just get what i need. I quite like the idea of the connectors then i can just rejoin if i take the gauge out.

FYI

I was told by a skoda dealers that the scotch locks were the only way I could wire anything in without breaking the T+C's of the warranty.

Their words were something like "As long as you don't cut or solder any wires"

Just thought would mention it as I'm not sure if your in your warranty period or not.

HTH

No not in warranty but i suppose what they say makes sense...but they're carp.

FYI

I was told by a skoda dealers that the scotch locks were the only way I could wire anything in without breaking the T+C's of the warranty.

Their words were something like "As long as you don't cut or solder any wires"

HTH

So, according to your dealer, I can bodge a job, but break the warranty if I try and do it right!?

So, according to your dealer, I can bodge a job, but break the warranty if I try and do it right!?

Their words !!!

NB I have long stopped using this dealership as they have a habit of talking out of their a$$

yeah that's a good way of doing it, the connectors are available from skoda, BUT the terminals are near impossible to get

I've managed to get some attached to wires. I'll try and find the part number.

yeah you can definitely buy them attached to wires, but they have the same terminal at each end, and you can only buy them in packs of 20 or 50 or something, so if you want to make up a straight though cable they are no good becuase you need them with mating terminals

yeah you can definitely buy them attached to wires, but they have the same terminal at each end, and you can only buy them in packs of 20 or 50 or something, so if you want to make up a straight though cable they are no good becuase you need them with mating terminals

Yep. I managed to just get 2- this was to repair the reverse light cabling on my A3, so I just cut one in half and heatshrinked/soldered to the original loom where it had broken. You could probably make up a lead in a similar way- the point being the OE wiring is untouched. I'm very surprised about the dealer recomending scotchloks- they damage wires as you fit them.

I wish i knew what you two are talking about, electrics arnt my strong point but i have used crimp connectors before and found Them quite good.

Ok Martin, a Scotchlock works by cutting some of the individual wire cores in the cables you fit it too, which reduces the current capacity of the cable, and isn't especially mechanically reliable either if there's a possibility of moisture getting on the connector blade and corroding it and the cables.

Ok Martin, a Scotchlock works by cutting some of the individual wire cores in the cables you fit it too, which reduces the current capacity of the cable, and isn't especially mechanically reliable either if there's a possibility of moisture getting on the connector blade and corroding it and the cables.

i know about scotchlocks ken i meant the terminals and splitter wires.

A Scotchlock does not work by 'cutting the wires'.The idea is providing you have the correct size Scotchlock the squeezing action cuts through the wire insulation ,and mechanically connects the Scotchlock inside metal to the copper wires.No strands are cut.

I hate the things , because water can get in and because of the two different metals ,plating on the Scotchlock ,and copper wire ,corrosion begins! Having done Electronics as a living you cant beat the wire strands mechanically twisted together ,being soldered,and flux removed.Then an overall covering of heatshrink!Yes you have to cut the wire to join to ,rather than strip the insulation.

Electronic Suppliers 'CPC and there parent Company 'Farnell' , sell all the parts required.

Ok Martin, a Scotchlock works by cutting some of the individual wire cores in the cables you fit it too, which reduces the current capacity of the cable, and isn't especially mechanically reliable either if there's a possibility of moisture getting on the connector blade and corroding it and the cables.

Going down that road , get a decent quality multi crimp tool ,use insulated crimps( of the right size ) ,and also suggest you use a bit of heatshrink on top to 1) guard against any stray ends sticking out and 2) to give it an extra layer of mechanical stability and 3) to help keep out moisture .

Normally like Andy , I'd advocate a solder job , but the idea of a hot iron( with lots of plastic around) ,plus the inevitable splash or two and solder's dislike of cold weather puts me off that idea .And the average Joe(from my experience) won't have had the necessary experience to get the solder to flow properly.OH-Yes -have you seen a decent low leakage soldering iron -most of the 12volt ones I've seen are expensive .

A Scotchlock does not work by 'cutting the wires'.The idea is providing you have the correct size Scotchlock the squeezing action cuts through the wire insulation ,and mechanically connects the Scotchlock inside metal to the copper wires.No strands are cut.

I hate the things , because water can get in and because of the two different metals ,plating on the Scotchlock ,and copper wire ,corrosion begins! Having done Electronics as a living you cant beat the wire strands mechanically twisted together ,being soldered,and flux removed.Then an overall covering of heatshrink!Yes you have to cut the wire to join to ,rather than strip the insulation.

Electronic Suppliers 'CPC and there parent Company 'Farnell' , sell all the parts required.

If that is the case you get 2, or maybe 4 if you're lucky, point contacts between a cable and the blade of the lock, which will give you a high resistance contact to the new cable.