Right!.. now the kitty's in safe hands I'll just say that i Have done a search and learnt LOTS about the following but have a specific question

<- lets kitty go

Guess what! My Rear Door seals are leaking (the ones on the ancillaries carriers, behind the door trim) ! YAY! I feel like I've finally joined an exclusive club...

LOTS of rain forecast way into the end of next week, excluding Saturday! Perfect.. a day I'm off and it's dry!

This means I've gotta get what will be very wet door seals dry enough to seal, quickly..

Any ideas? Will a hair dryer be quick enough or is it prob gunna just keep seeping through as I dry it, as I dry one end the other just gets wet again?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Rob

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Edited 23 January, 200917 yr by reflex88
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Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Joel, how could you!

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Put your car in the oven at 200degrees for 10 mins.

That'll dry it out.

My Dad does have industrial ovens at his factory... (one of which is fuelled by pressurised hydrogen and heated acid).. no really! looks like summit a bond villain would have!

Would only get half an original Mini in though.. perhaps if I cut my Furby in to quarters.. an oven for each door seal

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Aye that should be sound.

You'll be able to get it in.

Could always try and drive it into the oven in your house first.

Well, I am on Economy 7, so If I left it in over night wouldn't even cost that much...

Hope it doesn't shrink.

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if you have access to an air compressor , you could blow the seals dry , or the gentle use of a heat gun should be ok also

Thanks, but I don't unfortunately.

looks like SWMBO's hair dryers gunna mysteriously vanish for the first part of Saturday then

If the seals are a bit damp, not wet, will they still seal OK as long as I make sure it's pushed in well before it cures?

What do people think?

Thanks

Rob

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better to be totally dry for best sealing

Thanks, but I don't unfortunately.

looks like SWMBO's hair dryers gunna mysteriously vanish for the first part of Saturday then

If the seals are a bit damp, not wet, will they still seal OK as long as I make sure it's pushed in well before it cures?

What do people think?

Thanks

Rob

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Depends what type of sealer you use for the job. Silicon sealer hates dampness and will not set properly. It's also reluctant to stick to the door carrier. Repairs using silicon sealer usually fail in short order. What you need is a bodywork mastik compound. Unibond also do a product that has adhesive/filler/sealant properties. £10 from homebase. Remember to seal the rivets, and make sure you use the new style trim clips, with the better water seal on them (£3.54 for 14 from dealer.)

Do you mean this?

Homebase - Make a House a Home

Found a bathroom one but it was silicon.. this however states it'll stick to damp surfaces.. In or out of the house.. so metal & painted metal must be covered?

what do we think? Is this the perfect Fabia Door Leak Sealant?

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Oh, and for anyone finding this after a search way after the original post.. it is/was

Unibond All Purpose Interior & Exterior Easy Finish Sealant

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You need to seal the ancillaries carriers, not the door seals. Once you have done the former, water won't be able to get into the door seals and thence into the car. A guide to how to seal the rear ancillaries carriers is on VRStu's website here. The 2 photos below shows how water was getting into my car. To effect a temporary fix to prevent more water getting in while the weather is wet, get some thickish clear plastic or similar and cut it into strips slightly longer than the length on the door seals at the bottom and about 4-6 inches wide. Lay each strip loosely over the rubber seal seal so that it completely covers the rubber door seal and extends slightly over the inner black plastic trim. When you close the door on the plastic it should be just visible inside the car. Any water getting through the ancillary carriers will be stopped from getting into the car. If the rear doors are in regular use you will need to stick the plastic in place or risk losing it each time a rear door is opened. To dry the carpets out beg, borrow or hire a dehumidifier, or go for a very long drive with the heater and aircon on.

Cheers Denis!

Yeah, found that guide already (but thanks for pointing it out again).. I did mean the ancillaries carriers, just not to great on my explanations!

I'm guessing you changed my title too? I had wondered (once the post got going) if it was the best choice of title

Anyone know if the stuff I mentioned above will be ok? Don't want anything so sticky it just pulls the paint off with flex? Think this is the stuff I'm gunna try though.. as it's not silicone based and states it'll dry to a damp surface!

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Oh, and as for post fix drying.. Unibond appear to make dehumidifying pots.. So I'll dump a couple in the rear foot well! and close as many air vents as possible.

Thanks

Rob

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Just thought I'd add, for any future searches... that sealant has been "improved" and is now silicon based and no longer states it will bond to damp surfaces!... not happy, SWMBO had got me some (she works in a hardware store)... so, a quick trip to Hombase and I picked up some "UNIBOND WINDOW AND DOOR FRAME, INTERIOR & EXTERIOR SEALANT"

This states, on the bottle that it is "siliconised polyurethane".. prob just means it's actually silicon still, but all the others shout about actually being silicon based so this seemed hopeful.. also, it states it will bond to damp and wet surfaces including plastic, metal and wood to form a weather proof seal and claims to have outstanding adhesion! So this sounded like the most suitable stuff!