Any advice on servicing my superb 1.9 tdi .changed the pads before but never the oil and filter.anyone who is familar in changing oil and filter could explain the steps.allready got 4 litres of 507 oil and a mann oil +fuel filter have changed the air filter which is quite easy.the guy who normally services my car is snowed under at work and i thought it would be nice to know how to do a basic oil and filter change and fuel filter.any tips on undoing the under tray would help as well.thanks john

Easy enough job - but a pain due to the undertray. That's why some dealers break them and lose the fixings.

The undertray is held by 2 x 1/4 turn nylon screws in each front wheelarch - use a stubby or right angled screwdriver. There is an M6 nut front centre and slotted Dzus fasteners front and rear. Be careful, the front and rear fasteners are different - better not to take them right out. There should be rather pathetic rubber captive washers.

Drain plug is 19AF, oil filter cap needs a special 14 sided socket, 70 odd mm dia. GSF sell them.

When you remove the oil filter cap, there is a stick running up the centre which carries a small O ring at the bottom. Replace it with the new one supplied, also replace the large ring for the cap.

Tip. Put the engine drain plug back and fill the engine with oil through the filter housing. It's miles easier to get at than the filler cap. Capacity for a PD is about 3.75 litres. Don't overfill under any circumstances - top of the hashed section on the stick is ideal. Re-torque the filter cap as marked on it.

Have fun putting the bloody undertray back - but make sure you get it absolutely right, with all of the fixings in. It's put there for a good reason. We wouldn't want to be like a VAG dealer, would we?

rotodiesel.

Edited 2 December, 200916 yr by rotodiesel

Hmm. - noticed you're doing the fuel filter too.

The problem on the later PD engines is that the M6 clamp bolt has, of all things, a triple-square head. Replace with a hex bolt.

Don't take the pipes off the plastic "T" - remove the mickey mouse clip and carefully lift it out with the pipes attached. Replace the blue and black "O" rings (supplied) in the right order and smear with engine oil before refitting. Fit this assembly very carefully - air leaks are deadly. Don't use VAG or Chinese flters - only Mann & Hummel or Bosch.

Refit the plastic collar under the can flange (unless a dealer has already lost it) as it sets the height of the filter. Keep all dirt out of the filter outlet. I use a vac pump to prime the new filter but you might manage with the in-tank lift pump by repeated key operation without cranking the engine. Don't just crank it to death with the starter (who would do that ?).

rotodiesel.

Consider the purchase of an oil sucker... it’s a tool that can suck oil out of the sump via the dip stick tube most motor factors sell them makes oil changing easy and clean

I'm not convinced about the use of these - especially if you have a sludge-prone engine.

Gravity has a level of reliability that even VAG can't match.

rotodiesel.

I felt the same until I tried one........they have a measuring scale on the side so you can see how much oil has been sucked out also the tool can be used to vacuum up the oil in the oil filter area much better than a rag.....................................http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/14967-oil-extractor-pumps.html

But I have tested these as part of my job - and seen what's in the sump after you take it off and have a look inside.

Each to his own - probably OK on a petrol engine with no sludge and frequent changes, but I wouldn't use one on a diesel. It's also good to know if there are any bits in the sump which shouldn't be there...

There is a drain plug fitted, after all.

rotodiesel.

I only work on diesel and if the oil is changed often sludge is not a problem...If I think there is sludge I would use an engine flush... Most of the main dealers are gone this way now. The oil sucker I use is this one ....http://www.akd-tools.gr/xmsAssets/File/Catalogues/RAASM/RAASM109TO123.pdf

Edited 2 December, 200916 yr by yoda01

Engine flush + hydraulic tappets = problems.

Out of spec. oil mixed with 505.01 or 507.00 = potential problems.

Not recommended by any engine maker I know of. Don't risk it.

rotodiesel.

I use an oil pump to do additional changes.

every 9k = oil pump (VW507 + Filter)

every 18k = drain through sump plug by dealer. (VW507 + Filter)

I think around the 100k mark, I'll probably have the sump taken off, cleaned out and put back on again, and also clean out the strainer plus check any balancers etc.

Info on engine flush Wynn's Engine Oil Flush Service....................

thanks for the info lads.roto your help is much appreciated thanks for all the sizes.will get one of the oil filter sockets from gsf.now just find a nice enough day to attempt these as i have no garage

More info.... VW Golf GT TDI Oil and Filter Change - Extraction Method........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmz6nVA8tIs

I use an oil pump to do additional changes.

every 9k = oil pump (VW507 + Filter)

every 18k = drain through sump plug by dealer. (VW507 + Filter)

I think around the 100k mark, I'll probably have the sump taken off, cleaned out and put back on again, and also clean out the strainer plus check any balancers etc.

I do the same as this ,but i only do 8 or 9k a year , you can get the oil filter tool from e bay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220510180452 and an oil filter http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Genuine-VW-TDI-Oil-Filter-Audi-Seat-Skoda_W0QQitemZ170406478426QQihZ007QQcategoryZ9889QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63

For what it's worth, I agree with Rotodiesel...There's so much publicity about the PD engines having sludgy sump issues, it seems like an unnecessary risk to suck the oil out rather than let it drain away..

I feel a lot of the “sludgy sump” issues with PD engines in down to variable service intervals and wrong oil.On my previous car Octavia VRS 170 PD the first service came due at 18000 miles I think that too long to have oil in a car no matter how good a spec it is.With my new Superb I have chosen fixed servicing at every 10000 miles

thanks to all advice,now done oil and filter.

you where right about the engine covers

a pain in the butt.

john