Hi All

As mentioned in a previous post 2 months ago, I bought my Skoda Octavia Amiente 1.9tdi(2001 model) in September 2009.

At the time I was asking about the drivers door funtions not working and after a couple of suggestions I partially got them working.

I also mentioned that the battery was still going flat in a few days of being left connected.

I suddenly realised a few days ago that the internal courtesy light was not working (I dont think it has ever worked) when doors opened and with alot of moving the slider back and forth I managed to get it to work for a brief while then stop. It didnt even come on in the middle on positon and had the thought that it might be draining the battery.

I tried to take the lense cover off and it was so bittle that the whole unit broke apart and blew the fuse.

It is now not possible to reconstruct it to a working condition and was wondering where to get a replacement from, I could go to a breakers but that unit would probably be as bad as the one I had

Any suggestions would be helpful

Thanks

My 2001 model interior light is fine - I had it out at the start of the year to do a w8 mod to it (w8 mod images)

I would suggest either a scrap yard, or you can shell out and get a replacement from a dealer.

Note: the rear lights are manually operated at the light, and unless the wiring has been modified do not come one when opening the doors. Also worth checking boot light(s) go off too.

How is the power drain with the unit disconnected?

Hi All

As mentioned in a previous post 2 months ago, I bought my Skoda Octavia Amiente 1.9tdi(2001 model) in September 2009.

At the time I was asking about the drivers door funtions not working and after a couple of suggestions I partially got them working.

I also mentioned that the battery was still going flat in a few days of being left connected.

I suddenly realised a few days ago that the internal courtesy light was not working (I dont think it has ever worked) when doors opened and with alot of moving the slider back and forth I managed to get it to work for a brief while then stop. It didnt even come on in the middle on positon and had the thought that it might be draining the battery.

I tried to take the lense cover off and it was so bittle that the whole unit broke apart and blew the fuse.

It is now not possible to reconstruct it to a working condition and was wondering where to get a replacement from, I could go to a breakers but that unit would probably be as bad as the one I had

Any suggestions would be helpful

Thanks

I could help you out here, I've just upgraded my interior light to a W8 Passat unit too so have a standard light unit. Will sell for £12.00 including postage, you'll need new bulbs because I have kept these as spares! Any use? Drop me a PM

Thanks for the info mbames, your photos seemed nice and showed the steps well.

Also thanks for the offer Leeboy

However, my brother visited today and between us we managed to put the unit back together, with superglue and patience. It is now back and working better than it was, although still a bit tempremental and tatty. Hopefully, I will not need to replace it for the time being.

The car is not going to be unused from Friday night and I'll see if come Monday, it is still draining the battery somewhere.

The central locking is still playing up, with neither the drivers or the back nearside doors operating using the remote. And most of the buttons on the drivers door do not work, except that the drivers window does work but not always. It sometimes needs the battery to be disconnected/reconnected before it starts working again.

Just out of interest, Leeboy, did you say that passat units are fittable in the Octavia?

Edited 13 May, 201016 yr by itcmp2002

The Passat (non-sunroof) unit fits into the Octy, I did the cheapo version

As a footnote, the battery still went flat, well flat enough so that it could not start. It only took 24hours, so I suspect the battery may need replacing before any further investigation. It is still odd that it does go flat so quickly

Anyway, thanks to all and thanks for your help and interest.

My 2001 model interior light is fine - I had it out at the start of the year to do a w8 mod to it (w8 mod images)

I would suggest either a scrap yard, or you can shell out and get a replacement from a dealer.

Note: the rear lights are manually operated at the light, and unless the wiring has been modified do not come one when opening the doors. Also worth checking boot light(s) go off too.

How is the power drain with the unit disconnected?

I don't get it! So those red LED's stay on the whole time you have the lights turned on now? Isn't that really annoying!

I'm confused!

I don't get it! So those red LED's stay on the whole time you have the lights turned on now? Isn't that really annoying!

I'm confused!

Mine are wired in to only come on with the sidelights/headlights. Well I say "are", when I had a new windscreen fitted on Tuesday the bloke cut through the wires. :S

My LEDs are mounted behind the difuser plastic so generate a very gentle red light.

As a footnote, the battery still went flat, well flat enough so that it could not start. It only took 24hours, so I suspect the battery may need replacing before any further investigation. It is still odd that it does go flat so quickly

Anyway, thanks to all and thanks for your help and interest.

Try charging the battery outside of the car, and letting it sit in the garage / somehwere and see if it goes flat then. Or if you have a multimeter see what the current draw from the car. That might help determine if the battery is f00ked, or is your car is drawing too much power when locked.

I had to change the original battery in my 2001 2 years ago, as it failed to start one day, prior to that it had been 100%. I bought a replacement and drove around with it in the boot for a few months before actually swapping them over.

Thanks Mbames

Over the weekend I tested with a multimeter and found a 0.3amp flow a rest (no doors open, no lights on etc. but doors locked), I don't know if this is the normal flow for the situation I'm describing.

As far as charging and leaving the battery disconnected, I did this several times over the last few months and the car starts first time when reconnected. In fact, I leave the battery disconnected overnight all the time and if its to stand anywhere for any length of time, I also disconnect it and it aways starts when reconnected.

Thanks Mbames

Over the weekend I tested with a multimeter and found a 0.3amp flow a rest (no doors open, no lights on etc. but doors locked), I don't know if this is the normal flow for the situation I'm describing.

As far as charging and leaving the battery disconnected, I did this several times over the last few months and the car starts first time when reconnected. In fact, I leave the battery disconnected overnight all the time and if its to stand anywhere for any length of time, I also disconnect it and it always starts when reconnected.

A drain of 0.3A is too high and will drain the battery as described. A previous thread on here described a similar condition caused by the microswitch on the drivers door not working. This leaves the convenience system taking current as the alarm has not been set.

The fault introduces other symptoms such the interior lights and door lights not working as intended or even central locking and window lifts not working on all doors

You can check where the 0.3A is going by selectively removing and replacing fuses. I would start with convenience system fuses FS14 (which also protects the interior light) and then FS10 which also feeds the engine management system.

I agree 0.3amp seems rather high. Did you check after a few mins after locking to see if the current dropped? As above, pull some fuses and see if you can track down the faulty circuit.

A drain of 0.3A is too high and will drain the battery as described. A previous thread on here described a similar condition caused by the microswitch on the drivers door not working. This leaves the convenience system taking current as the alarm has not been set.

The fault introduces other symptoms such the interior lights and door lights not working as intended or even central locking and window lifts not working on all doors

You can check where the 0.3A is going by selectively removing and replacing fuses. I would start with convenience system fuses FS14 (which also protects the interior light) and then FS10 which also feeds the engine management system.

Pikpilot & mbames

I understand your points and there are several others things not working as they should. I will test over the next few days. Is the microswitch in the drivers door something to do with the door lock or somewhere else? Would just removing the switch help?

Thanks

Edited 24 May, 201016 yr by itcmp2002

Pikpilot & mbames

I understand your points and there are several others things not working as they should. I will test over the next few days. Is the microswitch in the drivers door something to do with the door lock or somewhere else? Would just removing the switch help?

Thanks

The microswitch is in the driver's door and is the sensor for door closed and so activates the other actions such as dimming the interior light and many other things through the convenience system control module. The microswitch has to be in the door and working correctly for everything else to work.

A search on here will show you how to change the switch - with pictures and blow by blow instructions.

Edited 25 May, 201016 yr by pikpilot

Just for comparison, I might stick a meter on my car and see how much current it draws when locked...

Well, i left the battery connected without using the car for 24 hours with number 14 fuse left out and so far, so good, the car started 1st time.

I dont have to use the car till Tuesday, so I'm trying another 24 hours to see what happens.

In the meantime, I've stripped down the drivers door with the idea of looking at the lock but unfortunetly, I don't seem to have the right size toque bit to undo those holding the lock in place. The largest I have just slips. Does anyone know the right size to use or is it a special tool.

THanks

The screws holding the lock in place are not Torx, they are 12 point M8 XZN spline. You can buy these from a good tool shop.

Thanks Moley

Well, The batteries flat again, at least it lasted a bit longer, I'll try removing FS10 as suggested once I've recharged. Just a quick question about removing fs10, I know its the management system fuse but does it control other things?

FYI a brand new interior lamp from the dealer is about £21+ vat - i've just bought one... tried Skoda spares and they wanted £20 + postage for a SH one!...

I've been away for a while and managed to let a fully charged battery sit in the garage for 2 weeks and it was still fully charged upon my return, so the battery must be OK

I tried both fuses and no change, battery still goes flat but haven't had time to take the lock apart yet. Got to get hold of correct tool in any case.

I was wondering, i have problems in tightening the negative battery terminal correctly, is this a common fault?

I also wondered if the terminal of an original Skoda battery is slightly bigger than normal as the one I have in the car is not a Skoda battery and perhaps this would explain the its loose fit (fully tightened with spanner I can still loosen it using my hand and twisting the terminal clamp).

Thanks in advance for any help you can give

Edited 24 June, 201016 yr by itcmp2002