Loose it all the way. If it's REALLY annoying you you can always put it back on. Worth a punt for a 50p grommet!

Matt

Loose it all the way. If it's REALLY annoying you you can always put it back on. Worth a punt for a 50p grommet!

Matt

£15 grommet

Linky

If my memory serves me right...

*Remove plastics cover off wiper arm

*Remove supporting nut

*Spray on WD-40

*Wiggle it, just a little bit, I wanna see you wiggle it --> allow patience for this, its a B!**h!

*Open the boot and carefully remove the plastic cover

*Remove the nuts supporting the motor

*Remove the motor

*Clean the hole and apply your gromit ideally with some sort of sealant

*Put the plastic cover back on

i have to ask...... how easy does this come off?

The cover in the boot comes off easy enough with a Flat head screwdriver. It's a bit tricky putting it back on, they are like push clip type things, but you gotta line them up both on the cover and boot lid because they can fall out the plastic cover iirc.

As far as the £15 grommet goes, as nice as it looks I rather the £14.50 in my pocket tbh lol!

Matt

The cover in the boot comes off easy enough with a Flat head screwdriver. It's a bit tricky putting it back on, they are like push clip type things, but you gotta line them up both on the cover and boot lid because they can fall out the plastic cover iirc.

As far as the £15 grommet goes, as nice as it looks I rather the £14.50 in my pocket tbh lol!

Matt

^ like he said, remember to be patient and unless you want rattles forever, make sure u dont lose any as they only slide in and out when there not pressed in. The glass gromit would be a nice touch, but 15 quid is a lot for not a lot if you get my drift.

As far as the £15 grommet goes, as nice as it looks I rather the £14.50 in my pocket tbh lol!

Matt

^ like he said, remember to be patient and unless you want rattles forever, make sure u dont lose any as they only slide in and out when there not pressed in. The glass gromit would be a nice touch, but 15 quid is a lot for not a lot if you get my drift.

Cheers for that guys night have a go this weekend.

that extra £14.50 im fine with (just to be that little more of a tart just means i will have to go really extreme now, All Badges, all stickers, fix the bumper get the exaust cleaned up propperly...........

Cheers for that guys night have a go this weekend.

that extra £14.50 im fine with (just to be that little more of a tart just means i will have to go really extreme now, All Badges, all stickers, fix the bumper get the exaust cleaned up propperly...........

haha you said it ya tart :p get some pics up when its done dude

Im worried now, he wants a photo of my bum

How big is my hole?

The hole in the Glass for the wiper do we know how big it is? is it between 25-28mm :yes:

hahaha!

Did it Yesterday!

We used the black sealant on the rear of the glass bung and let that dry, then on holding it in place (with a screwdriver weged between the parcel shelf and the glass bung) My mate stacy lent on the boot too hard and cracked the lip off to bond it to the glass so i now have half a tube on the inside and the outside gap just needs tidying up a little (it wouldent smooth off was just clumping up like a b***h)

Will get some photos up after work, and arrange them for a walk through guide

...so i now have half a tube on the inside and the outside gap just needs tidying up a little

(it wouldent smooth off was just clumping up like a b***h)

Coming from a building background, here's a priceless tip for smoothing mastic.

For long runs of mastic ( like door seals... )

First ensure the joint you are sealing is bone dry. Most mastics don't stick to anything wet.

Once mastic is applied from the gun to the joint it is then safe to spray the bead of

mastic with a little soapy water from a trigger bottle.

Washing up liquid is ideal. a nice soapy solution is peferable.

Once sprayed, dip your finger in said solution and then smooth the bead

very gently with your finger tip. You should get better results.

With shorter beads, like this job for example.

Just thoroughly wet your finger with soapy water. No need to spray.

Real pro's just use a bit of spit...

The most common mistake with mastic is applying too much.

It's also a bit easier to get a tidy bead if you cut the nozzle at 45 degrees.

And cut the nozzle gradually until your bead width is appropriate for the job you are doing.

rather than lopping it off blindly.

Even if you already know this mate, it may be helpful to somebody as it's also

helpful information when sealing the door carriers.

A very common Furby fault as you know.

Edited 6 September, 201015 yr by grr666

Coming from a building background, here's a priceless tip for smoothing mastic.

For long runs of mastic ( like door seals... )

First ensure the joint you are sealing is bone dry. Most mastics don't stick to anything wet.

Once mastic is applied from the gun to the joint it is then safe to spray the bead of

mastic with a little soapy water from a trigger bottle.

Washing up liquid is ideal. a nice soapy solution is peferable.

Once sprayed, dip your finger in said solution and then smooth the bead

very gently with your finger tip. You should get better results.

With shorter beads, like this job for example.

Just thoroughly wet your finger with soapy water. No need to spray.

Real pro's just use a bit of spit...

The most common mistake with mastic is applying too much.

It's also a bit easier to get a tidy bead if you cut the nozzle at 45 degrees.

And cut the nozzle gradually until your bead width is appropriate for the job you are doing.

rather than lopping it off blindly.

Even if you already know this mate, it may be helpful to somebody as it's also

helpful information when sealing the door carriers.

A very common Furby fault as you know.

bit of useful advice is always welcome.

Do you wanna finish it for me then