i am coming up to a 1000 miles on my yeti.about another 45 to go, can i call my self run in now...................or not!!

mike.

It's a diesel, give it another 25k before it loosens up!!

Truthfully I would still be looking after it, but gradually increasing things. Isn't that what the book says to do.

Sod that if you dont want it it to drink oil start giving it the beans my new vrs is just short of 1k and and all we have done is kept it below 4000rpm

It's a diesel, give it another 25k before it loosens up!!

Truthfully I would still be looking after it, but gradually increasing things. Isn't that what the book says to do.

There is a recommendation for running in supplied by Honest John - you will find it in earlier posts on this forum.

If I remember OK

Up to 1000 miles - 3500rpm

2000 miles - 4000 rpm

3000 miles - 4500 rpm etc.

Good running in has always proved itself for me. Most of my engines have reached 90,000 before any major repair required.

This is the text from the Honest John site. I am currently at 1,400 miles so I am going up to 3,500rpm. The interesting thing is that I can no longer reach that in 4th gear as that would take me over the 70mph speed limit. I suspect for the next phase, 4,000rpm I may not get that in 3rd gear either. I do find it quite hard to do as I have always protected my engine in how I have driven in the past. Now it looks as though I was not protecting it after all. All very confusing.

For the first 1,000 miles do not exceed 3,000rpm, but make sure you reach 3,000rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 2,000 miles) do not exceed 3,500rpm, but make sure you reach 3,500rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 3,000 miles) do not exceed 4,000rpm, but make sure you reach 4,000rpm regularly. For the next 1,000 miles (to 4,000 miles) do not exceed 4,500rpm, but make sure you reach 4,500rpm at least a couple of times a week. After that, no limit, but make sure you continue to hit 4,500rpm through the gears several times a week. The benefit of this is it helps to self clean the injectors, it blows any accumulated soot out of the exhaust system and it helps to free off the piston rings, making the engine more efficient and less likely to use engine oil.

My first two tanks managed 42pmg and 43.5mpg. I am half way through the next one. This a genuine reading, the maxidot is way out showing 48 and then 49mpg. I do know people who swear by this method so I am determined to stick with it.

Tried the honest john approach this time myself but like my PD's before still used 3/4 of a litre of oil so far. Currently at almost 9000 miles.

With the Golf she tended to use between 1/2 to a litre every 10,000 miles with the exception of the trip to Austria of 980ish miles in 20 hours. Consumed 1/2 a litre there and another half coming back.

Regards,

TP

Plumber - I must admit my aim with this is not about oil but improving mpg. It is a difficult one to quantify as who knows what the car would have done if driven less aggressively at the beginning but the consensus seems to be that it improves the mpg of the car, presumably as there is less friction as it is looser.

Did you find your Golf got closer to the mfrs claims after using this method?

Plumber - I must admit my aim with this is not about oil but improving mpg. It is a difficult one to quantify as who knows what the car would have done if driven less aggressively at the beginning but the consensus seems to be that it improves the mpg of the car, presumably as there is less friction as it is looser.

Did you find your Golf got closer to the mfrs claims after using this method?

Hi,

bought the Golf approved used with 4K on the clock (ex VW) but the mpg did improve as the miles built up. Low 40's became high 40's with the trip computer (no maxidot) giving very regular readings in the low 50's on a run when I let it go 21,000 miles later to buy the Yeti.

As a point to note from my experience Golf's depreciate just as much as any other car; not found one of these 'hold there value' myths true yet :S

Regards,

TP

The economy on my last diesel improved significantly after I passed 10,000 miles. It was almost as though someone flicked a switch and I gained 4-5mpg. I suppose this method of running in accelerates the loosening up process so that the car reaches that 10,000 miles level at around 4-5,000 miles. Probably.

Many years ago my brotherinlaw ran a large Kawasaki bike dealers. When asked how to "run in" the big 4 cyl bikes his answer was you could run them in loose or tight.No prizes for how it was done.None ever came back in for repair work and the "loose" ones were noticeably quicker

Oh god not the 'run in' thing again!.

Engines are so well made these days, the age old tradition of running in doesn't really need to be done anymore!.

Drive it however you like, just make sure you do an oil and filter change within the first 1000 miles to get rid of any metal particles.

After that do as you please.

The Kawasaki statement above reminds me of a similar story typed up in performance bikes magazine a few years ago.

They took one GSXR1000 and ran it in below xxxxrpm without any full throttle and another identical GSXR1000 which was just utterly raped for the same amount of miles.

Both hit the dyno and the thrashed one made more power and drank a TINY bit more oil than the other bike.

The car is under warranty, chances are if you redline it from new, any nasty gremlins popping up wont be effecting you but the 2nd or 3rd owner, 100,000 miles+ later.

Fortunately mine is a company car so it doesn't need running in anyway.

Seriously though I took it easy for a bit and steadily increased over 500 miles but it now feels quite good coming up to 1800 miles and I have no hesitation using full power to overtake.

Personally I think that as the car spends so many miles cruising on motorways, that the odd burst of full power/high revs prevents a ridge forming in the bore equivalent to about 2000 to 2500 rpm

The car is under warranty, chances are if you redline it from new, any nasty gremlins popping up wont be effecting you but the 2nd or 3rd owner, 100,000 miles+ later.

If you are in Taipei in 2-3 years time and looking to buy a used 1.2 TSi with a few trick bits of suspension - you have been warned!