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ABS sensor issue causing ASR issue but no ABS light?

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Anyone know if this is possible?

Yesterday I was driving up a gentle hill, it was snowy but not settling so there was plenty of grip and all of a sudden the EPC light came on permanently, the TCS/ASR (triangular one) light started flashing and the car decelerated. It idled fine, but would not rev at all, I could only get it up to about 1200-1300 rpm. It had power as it would pull the car up the hill, but if the revs crept too high it would feel lumpy and feel like it was going to stall so I'd have to dip the clutch and start climbing again.

When I got to a safe place on the hill I restarted the engine and it was fine and has been fine since, but the thing is, I don't know if there can be a fault with the traction control without there being on the ABS? The only time I used the brakes was when stopped to a avoid rolling back down the hill, so I am wondering if the ABS will not sense an issue unless you are moving at speed and press the brakes with an issue?

I have found some threads about sticky calipers causing similar issues, but usually there is an ABS light, which I did not notice at the time. And also there can be a MAF issue, but that gives the engine light as well as EPC and TCS/ASR.

I did scan the car for codes, but annoyingly the laptop crashed after I cleared the codes and the text file didn't save. I recall the following, but without codes:

- pressure drop between turbo & throttle body

- another engine code thatg free VAGCOM wouldn't decode

- an ABS code mentioning intermittent and check DTC.

The engine codes are probably due to the intercooler -> throttle body pipe having blown off a couple of months ago, but I cannot be sure as I didn't get any lights on when that happened.

So, is it possibly to get an ABS sensor fault causing the traction control to continuously limit power, without showing the ABS warning light and only the EPC & TCS/ASR? And if so, is it likely to just be a sticky caliper that needs clearing?

It's a bit disconcerting that this is the second fault that results in sudden loss of power, one of the big pluses of this car on the road is it's ability to overtake, but without reliable power it loses its appeal! Sometimes I miss the ever reliable 2.0 8v....

Cheers,

Rob

Mine does this sometimes. Its caused by low voltage. Check your alternator/battery/charging loom.

  • Author

Actually the battery does sound a bit strained under starting, and the dash lights flicker on idle, however the car had been running for over 20 minutes. It sucks if the alternator or wiring fails after 7.5years/70kmiles when my old '03 2.0 was fine when I sold it at 135k! I'm beginning to wonder about the quality control on these things....

I sorted mine last time by spraying some wd40 in the alternator terminals but thats not working this time so I'm going to book it in to be checked. I think the voltage regulator has maybe gone. I've not had a flat battery or charging light yet. The drop in voltage effects the sensors in the throttle body I think.

  • 2 weeks later...

if i drive with the ASR off its no problum and i get massive wheel spin but if i drive with the ASR on it sometimes looses all power for 30-40 seconds and the boost peek drops from 17-19 psi to 4-5 psi and i have to turn the car off and then back on to get my boost back?

Marko

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my new battery fitting it tomorrow will let you no if it fixes the issue.

Fitted my new battery and it didn't fix the boost issue :-(

But it is running slightly better ( I think lol )

Marko

  • Author

Strangely I have not had the issue occur again. I did find out the passenger side front brake was binding, but didn't sort it out until last weekend.

Strangely I have not had the issue occur again. I did find out the passenger side front brake was binding, but didn't sort it out until last weekend.

:@ God no's wats wrong :wall: , think im going to have to get the coad reader on the go, just need to find one first :rofl:

Marko

A thing like this happened to me a couple of weeks ago, it turned out to be the alternator not giving out enough voltage.Have you checked it with a voltage meter or checked the voltage with vag com?

A thing like this happened to me a couple of weeks ago, it turned out to be the alternator not giving out enough voltage.Have you checked it with a voltage meter or checked the voltage with vag com?

when the car is running it charges at 13.4 volts is that right?

Plus I have already replaced the alternator and the belt like 100 times because it kept snapping.

Edited by marko pollo

when the car is running it charges at 13.4 volts is that right?

Plus I have already replaced the alternator and the belt like 100 times because it kept snapping.

With a brand new alternator fitted i'm getting just over 14 volts so 13.4 does seem a little low.Is the replacement alternator new or used?

Edited by GAZ911

With a brand new alternator fitted i'm getting just over 14 volts so 13.4 does seem a little low.Is the replacement alternator new or used?

new but not vag.

new but not vag.

Probably not the alternator then.I would say your best bet was to get yourself a cheap code reader from ebay or amazon and scan it and see what it comes up with.

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