vRSAnt

Rimblades I think are a total waste of time. Expensive and then when it comes to a smack don't REALLY save the wheel from opinions I've seen and then trap crap behind them which spoils them anyway -but I've never actually bothered to own any to give a first hand verdict, just what I heard. Just refurbed mine before and then more careful ( and wife doesn't want to drive it anyway!) plus rim prot. You can definitely get a bit of rim protection with some tyres like one I mentioned. It wasn't Gemini tho it was the L+K mirror polished style octy ones on with the Conti's just fitted, same tyre size as vRS tho. Goodyear eagle f1 definitely offer a bit of rim protection. Contis about the same (LK alloy) a fair chunk of rubber at least . Uniroyals, somewhat considerably less if at all anything ( my back tyres )

I have 2 very similar, very good but very similar Octavia's and it might be a bit much. ( I STILL haven't serviced clutch on my petrol 2014 vRS manual with 80k but getting around to it soon, either been unwell or its been stinking hot this year and I just didn't feel like engaging in the heat but will do ). Hell of a car, the only thing I've been less keen on is the colour Black. Also though, have an L+K 1.8Tsi is amazing but just different (DSG) in that metallic grey. Only about 20K on that. Surely got to be around 10K worth surely that is something someone would snap up? Electrically adjusted comfort seats, same Canton stereo as vRS, front "active" cruise control etc They are very similar though and take up drive space awkwardly. What would I get rid of? The L+K might seem that it would probably yield the most value, and the vRS pips it on out and out performance ( but probably more performance than most situations need ). The 1.8TSi as an everyday car is probably more than adequate for most people. Have 2 other cars ( wifes citigo and convertible) to boot ! Would keep both but I don't know how practical that really is, this is my first year having them both after my dad stopped driving and gave me L+K. Thoughts?

Just look on kwikfit, they are very clear which have rim protection when buying. I bought continentals for the 1.8Tsi LK I acquired from father as that was what was on it. After fitting these were chunky around rim offering protection and was clear when trying to buy them which ones are protected (not mentioned below for some reason though), so just use the websites. 2 x Continental SportContact 7 at £95.50 Tyre Size 225/40 18Y EU Tyre Label Info - Vehicle Type C1, Fuel Efficiency C, Wet Grip A, Noise Rating B-72dB Load Index: 92

Used the plasti filler to smooth out ( yet to sand down )

Dogbone mount? Suspension? (less movement when loaded) I got 13.8s quarter one time I was convinced to go down to the pod and that was a first try, novice not even trying, nothing removed from the car and with std suspension etc on that attempt. That matched almost a mate with a VXR6.2L so it couldn't be that bad to launch!

Its only very occasionally intermittently showing on this L+K so hardly a priority but great info sharing on the problem, I will go down this route with ordering + video if it becomes more glitchy.

Its a non concern from what I've seen Got this on the L+K myself There is a fix kit you can apply Its not a break thing, just an annoyance pretty sure ? As it doesn't cause any change of gear or anything. My scan was B116229 - Selector lever park position lock switch implausible signal Intermittent Some nice Irish dude talks through the entire fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwLVR5WvWfk

£7.50 collected bargain https://www.toolstation.com/big-boy-plastic-flexi-filler/p31685

I got to this horrible bump (original below) Improved shape/ pushed out a lot a little earlier in the week with some prodding - but still seems to have some distortion given the big crease whatever it was did to it, I think it was stretched too much so can't be perfect. This was the worse damage on the car. Still, its too good a bumper to waste say £200+ on a breaker part or pattern I initially slapped a bit of rough paint just to cover, however I think I need to get some flexible bumper filler then sand to get 100% shape back before paint, yet to decide which product there are so many to choose from...3m, isopon, upol

Ah you should have probably posted your own new question then, I as the original OP posted my own point here about upgrading the firmware of a specific HU If this is something OT then probably best to take it OT to a new thread ;)

InoKraftDX-PresaleInoKraft empowers DIYers with innovative, easy-to-use home improvement tools—from paint sprayers to lifestyle power tools—designed for real projects, real creators, and real results.

You need to establish exactly which model HU you have and version/ long click the MENU for about 10S and go to the details for software versions. They are very specific updates. Its possible you may be mismatching with the one here. Funnily enough I've just been checking my 2nd Octavia mk3 and it has the same EXACT part number and stereo as here so I will be repeating this update on this one as that is stock on 435 ! Since he long went on about the L+K being "top of the range" upmarket from my vRS etc ( or that is how it was sold him) quelle surprise - exact same stereo lol. Thought it might have been a columbus or MIB2 but nope, its the same. I offered to check and update for my dad originally but he wasn't bothered and here we are, now I have to think about repeating this myself ! Found I still have a copy of this on my desktop

In my honest opinion for coding I would bite the bullet and get full proper VCDS ( no cheap copy virus china edition ) and just determine how many license you need for it. I think OBD11 is alienating people with its insistence of yearly annual which isn't exactly low, if you can imagine needing for a few years I think it may pay for itself in hobby coding - or pro if you start helping others Its a different platform with OBD pushing more to mobile BT users vs laptop/usb admittedly but VCDS was always the daddy.

12V sounds low from your smart charger though, are you sure the new battery isn't borked? My new one was over 12.5V and I think on charge was North of that around 13V

Ah I didn't read properly sorry, so its a good battery that if conditioning should reach over 12.5V? Lidl do cheap ones which is where I got mine from. Ah the recoding - Sorry you will need PRO (or be inventive in looking for an APK at own risk) to find a way to do that, maybe a VCDS member local to you might help ?