Right, if for example, I'm already in 2nd or 3rd and I floor it, the car picks up almost instantly and revs quite happily to the red line. However, if I'm in 2nd accelerating hard and change up into 3rd, the car bogs down for a little while and doesn't accelerate anywhere near as hard, but then accelerates well after the initial hesitation.

It's a 2006 VRS with 70k on the clock, standard apart from a CAI into the original airbox, a Pipercross panel filter, and a Forge 007 diverter valve.

I cleaned the throttle body a few months ago, but I do mostly short journeys, probably less than a thousand miles since I cleaned it, would it be worth doing again, or could it be something else entirely? Cheers.

If it's not just turbo lag then hesitation issues are quite common, use the search in this section to find out what to check.

Vac leak or dirty throttle body can cause this. Check for split pipes and cleaning the throttle body is a practically free job that made quite. Bit if difference on mine

Thanks for the replies.

I don't think it's just turbo lag, as I say it's fine in gear, just laggy when changing up a gear, suppose it could be because the turbo's spooled down when I've dipped the clutch?

I'll check for leaks and clean the TB again, no harm done as it only costs a couple of quid for a gasket.

Sorry i missed the part about you having already done the cleaning. It should be fine, try looking for split hoses or getting a code scan for anything amiss with a cheap code reader.

Not to mention if you haven't had the coilpacks recalled yet, it could be well worth getting that done if you have any of the faulty batch, check the letter on the end of the part code on you current coil packs if you haven't had them changed or checked yet

Sorry i missed the part about you having already done the cleaning. It should be fine, try looking for split hoses or getting a code scan for anything amiss with a cheap code reader.

Not to mention if you haven't had the coilpacks recalled yet, it could be well worth getting that done if you have any of the faulty batch, check the letter on the end of the part code on you current coil packs if you haven't had them changed or checked yet

I've got a bluetooth dongle and Torque, no faults showing on that, but vagcom may show something up.

The coil packs were all changed under the recall just before I bought the car, so they should be fine.

What's the easiest way to check for leaks? I assume the only thing you can do is stick your head under the bonnet with the engine running and hope you can hear a hiss, lol???

I think N75 valves can give up without throwing up an error code. also try driving around with MAF unplugged for a bit. If the car feels the same or even Better it could be a goosed MAF.