Has anybody else suffered with a problem where the heating / cooling fan doesn't seem to be working?

I can still get heat / cool air out of the ducts, but under no pressure at all. I've checked fuses in both fuse boxes and all seem to okay on a quick visual inspection.

Skoda want £96 to put on VCDS, which I don't really want to do for them just to tell me that the fan possibly needs replacing. Is it worth doing this? I.e. is there anything worth checking to rule everything else out first?

I am going to get each fuse out and check with a multimeter before I starting spending my hard earned cash first though.

Thought I'd update my own post as it may help someone else at some point.

The heater fan was broken, with the motor having burnt out. A local garage confirmed it with a diagnostics check at £25. The system they use said it would take 6 hours to replace, (as did Skoda) but they were skeptical of that, saying they'd replaced the part before on a Passat in under 2 hours.

The part was going to be £276+VAT from Skoda, and the correct part was not available from EuroCarParts, CES etc. the correct part number is 1K2 820 015G, and they only had 1K2 820 015 (which doesn't include a resistor unit or something)

Found a right hand drive part on German fleabay from a 2013 reg VW Beetle for £95 inc postage.

Expected to be having to pay 2 hours labour, but got a phone call an hour after dropping the car off saying they'd done it it under an hour.

Total outlay £175.

Result

The fan motor on my 'S' can be removed from the car in about 5 minutes, I did it last week, no tools required. A length of chunky wiring loom and the carpet/soundproofing needs pushing towards the bulkhead, as it prevents otherwise extremely easy removal. The motor twists against the direction of the arrow cast onto its housing about 1/16 of a turn, after the securing tang is lifted off its seat (so it can rotate) and then drops down. You have to lie with your back over the passenger door sill to see what you are doing. The power connector has two wings/tangs which are squeezed together to release.

 

The motor in mine was a Valeo from France. It seems to run on (phosphor bronze?) bushes as most do. The carbon brushes are accessible, but not easily as the impeller is in the way.

 

I removed mine as the car had suffered momentary water entry into the front passenger footwell heater duct. This was during the heaviest rainstorm I have ever experienced, near Milan. Much later, the motor had started to v.intermittently squeak v.faintly. After oiling it, that has gone (for now?).

 

There is no moisture drain on the motor housing, the lower bearing will sit in a puddle until any collected water evaporates from the plastic motor cowling. This is located by three soft rubber mounts which DO need a screwdriver to push them out and are fiddly to refit until you realise how to tease them back into their holes with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

I don't think my car was at fault - the rain was unbelievable!

 

Btw, This was NOT on the dual-zone HVAC unit, maybe they're different.

Edited 15 September, 201312 yr by CombatWombat

I had a similar fault occur where the heating fan just stopped on my 2011 superb.. I read all the posts here and they described my problem, I checked the fuses which were ok and was resigned to a fairly substantial out lay for repairs.. even doing it my self..

 

In the end i decided to drop the glove box ( 10 Minutes work) and have a look at what was involved in fitting a new motor myself.

While tinkering about i noticed the black power connector for the fan which is mounted on the bulkhead to the right  of the fan was not seated properly..The left side clip was not engaged... I only had to push the connector together properly until the clips engaged and the fan now runs perfectly again.

 

I thought it was unusual for this type of connector not to be seated properly(whether by accident or design?).  They are designed to close and stay closed and don't come apart easily.

 

Im a naturally suspicious type and could imagine there might be dodgy  garages out there that would charge an exorbitant amount for pushing this connector together.

 

Its certainly worth a look, particularly if a job which is supposed to take several hours labour is done in one hour !!

How difficult are they to change in the superb? I've done one in another car - which was quite satisfying to save some labour costs.

Very easy to change , don't think you need to remove the glove box but it's been a while , there are other threads on the subject

On 15/09/2013 at 13:05, CombatWombat said:

The fan motor on my 'S' can be removed from the car in about 5 minutes, I did it last week, no tools required. A length of chunky wiring loom and the carpet/soundproofing needs pushing towards the bulkhead, as it prevents otherwise extremely easy removal. The motor twists against the direction of the arrow cast onto its housing about 1/16 of a turn, after the securing tang is lifted off its seat (so it can rotate) and then drops down. You have to lie with your back over the passenger door sill to see what you are doing. The power connector has two wings/tangs which are squeezed together to release.

 

The motor in mine was a Valeo from France. It seems to run on (phosphor bronze?) bushes as most do. The carbon brushes are accessible, but not easily as the impeller is in the way.

 

I removed mine as the car had suffered momentary water entry into the front passenger footwell heater duct. This was during the heaviest rainstorm I have ever experienced, near Milan. Much later, the motor had started to v.intermittently squeak v.faintly. After oiling it, that has gone (for now?).

 

There is no moisture drain on the motor housing, the lower bearing will sit in a puddle until any collected water evaporates from the plastic motor cowling. This is located by three soft rubber mounts which DO need a screwdriver to push them out and are fiddly to refit until you realise how to tease them back into their holes with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

I don't think my car was at fault - the rain was unbelievable!

 

Btw, This was NOT on the dual-zone HVAC unit, maybe they're different.

 

This resembles my problem, I’ve got a 2014 elegance green line estate.

my fan just stopped between trips on a sunny day,  checked all the fuses I could find, even though some of them are in the plan, but not actually in EITHER fuse box (one under the bonnet beside battery).

 

so I read all the theories, took out my glovebox, and found the fan box behind the thin sponge lining above yer passengers feet.  As this chap say, pull the tab down and twist the bottom of the fan and it just pops out.  My fan was understandably grimy and a little bit rusty at its lowest point, primarily because the water that does get in, can’t get out.   I’m wondering if a tiny hole ie 1mm drilled in the housing would hurt? As soon as the water settles, the fan would blast it out, it’s only a tiny amount, but it’s where the axle of the fan sits

 

my fan was “stuck” but not seriously. First tap moved it, the I WD40 Both ends, removed excess n refitted

 

im not a mechanic by any means, but it was surprisingly simple job, even a new fan is on eBay quite cheap so a replacement is an inexpensive easy job

 

thanks for all the tips

On 21/08/2018 at 14:04, Nickgrant said:

This resembles my problem, I’ve got a 2014 elegance green line estate.

my fan just stopped between trips on a sunny day,  checked all the fuses I could find, even though some of them are in the plan, but not actually in EITHER fuse box (one under the bonnet beside battery).

 

so I read all the theories, took out my glovebox, and found the fan box behind the thin sponge lining above yer passengers feet.  As this chap say, pull the tab down and twist the bottom of the fan and it just pops out.  My fan was understandably grimy and a little bit rusty at its lowest point, primarily because the water that does get in, can’t get out.   I’m wondering if a tiny hole ie 1mm drilled in the housing would hurt? As soon as the water settles, the fan would blast it out, it’s only a tiny amount, but it’s where the axle of the fan sits

 

my fan was “stuck” but not seriously. First tap moved it, the I WD40 Both ends, removed excess n refitted

 

im not a mechanic by any means, but it was surprisingly simple job, even a new fan is on eBay quite cheap so a replacement is an inexpensive easy job

 

thanks for all the tips

No need to remove the glove box. It can pop out from underneath.

I replaced mine with one 3 years newer and its started the same thing.

Did the WD40 help ?

I just wanted to lubricate the bearing that’d just slightly caught, n flush out any crud.  It’s still working now, so I’m guessing it kinda did