Hi not posted on here before but was wondering if anyone could help me as my turbo on my asz fabia has decided to lose the nut off the shaft of compressor wheel and destroy itself!

I have therefore upgraded to a hybrid turbo which was bought from here off xman750 which is a garrett gt1749v with gt1749vc internals.

My broken turbo which has come off is a kkk turbo. I was wondering if anyone could give me somewhere to start on the stop screw and actuator settings as I do not think setting them to the same length as the kkk would work.

I have got vagcom to take logs and fine tune once the turbo is fitted just wanted a rough starting point while the new turbo is off. Any help will be greatly appreciated cheers.

Also need this help

You have to set the actuator to a preload level of something like 10 or 15 mercury units.  Mine is still set to the default level now as not got my backside in gear to run logs and get actuator properly tuned up.  Car goes fine though so not worried about it right now.

leave all the setting as is, who is doing your mapping?

 

you can set the stop screw via vagcom once engine warm

 

actuator has to be set via logging group 11 on standard map

leave all the setting as is, who is doing your mapping?

 

you can set the stop screw via vagcom once engine warm

 

actuator has to be set via logging group 11 on standard map

 

Just to make things clearer here, he means you can log the stop screw settings via vagcom - You can't actually adjust it via the computer as it's mechanically altered from under the car.

 

OP if you're stuck i'm in leeds and could help you as i've got the exact same turbo as you and just been through the process. Got the spanner too to change the actuator.

How does using a vagcom help? Serious question not being a smart arse

You can do a log of the stop screw movement to see how much the arm is moving before it hits the stop screw. 

 

You then adjust accordingly under the car, then re-log etc. Hope that helps

Does it give you boost pressures by using that?

Using VCDS lite (can't be demo version).

Go into ECU then basic settings.

Go to group 11 and hit go.

Rpm will rise to 1400rpm.

It will then go from a closed actuator to an opened actuator. It will do this continuously until you stop it.

Your looking at the pressure difference between closed and opened.

Here is a nice article on the topic:

 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/turbo-stop-screw-adjustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/

 

the most common issue is the turbo spooling up to late in this specific case you need to turn the stop screw clockwise about half turn each time and then check the results with VCDS, repeat until it's good the difference between on and off stage in vcds should be around 125-150mbar

Sorted mine out. Took the turbo back off and sent it to turbo centre to set up after many hours of messing.

had it mapped at 175bhp before the stop screw and actuator was set so need to get it mapped again now it is set up right.

The clutch was also slipping at this power so have put a helix smf and clutch in it.

for those struggling with actuator adjustment here is some helpful www:

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/34834-vnt-tdi-turbo-how-to-adjust-actuator-cure-boost-problems/

I have a hybrid p&p which you don't have to adjust at all, check this out

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/326844-skoda-octavia-2010-19-tdi-bxe-177397-stage2/