Yes I know,

 

£200 for Skoda to do it.

 

£125 for local indy to do it.

 

£40 and half a day for me to do it.

 

Would I pay £85 to enjoy 25% more of my weekend

Unless you are a total ****nuckle or haven't the right tools it's only 3 bolts & a nut.  At the very worst it's 30m per side unless you have severe corrosion issues on the lower bolt.

Did mine this afternoon. Fairly straightforward, the top mount bolts on the NSR were a right pain to loosen off.  Also the wheel arch liner is a different shape because of the fuel filler and is a bit more tricky.

 

Top tip - I used a bungee cord to hold the shock compressed and make it easier to access the nut on the top.

I did mine this afternoon, took me about 25 mins per side. I did have the benefit of an impact to remove things. You'll need an off set spanner or similar to remove the nut from the top of the shock. It's an easy diy, save you some money.

I'd replace the shocks as well since you've got to take them out anyway and they are well used shocks, you'll notice the improvement with new ones.

Did mine this afternoon. Fairly straightforward, the top mount bolts on the NSR were a right pain to loosen off. Also the wheel arch liner is a different shape because of the fuel filler and is a bit more tricky.

Top tip - I used a bungee cord to hold the shock compressed and make it easier to access the nut on the top.

Wish I'd tried the bungee cord tip, would have saved me some faffing.

Gutted Mike, are you off the road now or have you reassembled the shocks?

Hi everyone, I gave this a go yesterday afternoon as the weather was holding up.

I got to the stage of removing the lower shock bolt but it just would not budge!

I sprayed it with WD40. Gave it a few taps. Removed the spring tray. It literally would not move. In fairness it is the side I dont need to change, but I was doing it in pairs. I didnt attempt the other side as I didnt know if I would have the same issue or not.

I can sort of access the top of the shock spindle but i cant get enough leverage to grip the spindle whilst undoing the nut.

Would anyone be able to recommend how to proceed please? Should I remove the bolt holding the brake assembly too? Or should I take it to a garage to take an impact gun to it?

I am not entirely bothered either way.

There's a million ways to remove a stubborn bolt - it all depends on what tools you have & how good they are.

 

The biggest problem is that when undoing a bolt like that, people tend to turn it the wrong way as they are looking at it from the reverse side.

 

If you are going to hit the spanner, hit it really hard.

 

My favoured method is to use my legs as they are much stronger than my arms.  You'll have to make sure the car is secure & get under the body.  grab hold of something with the arms and then push with your feet.

Thanks for the advice brad. I will remember that next time I come across a stubborn bolt. For the time being, I am going to leave that side and attempt to do the side I need to replace. You are correct about the rotation of the bolt, but I was definitely undoing it correctly.

The other side might be easier as I can use a pull force rather than a push force.

In anycase, I will save it for another clear day and report. For now I will drive with a rotten bumo stop lol.

After going through this on my MkII Octavia (2008, 60,000 miles) I've just noticed that they are also rotten on my MkII Superb (2011, 96,000 miles), they are literally holding on with the last strand of foam.

 

Seems to me like they are pretty poor design.

 

Booked in to have them replaced next week, when trying the replace the ones on the Octavia I was struggling to get the car high enough off the ground to allow me enough leverage on my breaker bar. Sacked it off in the end and chucked it at the garage.

Edited 3 May, 201610 yr by silver1011

Anyone in the NW London area fancy doing mine? 

I was thinking that if I did have a little more room I might be able to get more leverage. I could put it on a ramp or get access to a lift to do it.

Were there any success stories of being able to undo the top nut in situ? I'm considering a last option method in case I cannot undo the nut.

I was thinking that if I did have a little more room I might be able to get more leverage. I could put it on a ramp or get access to a lift to do it.

Were there any success stories of being able to undo the top nut in situ? I'm considering a last option method in case I cannot undo the nut.

I changed the bump stops without removing the shock completely from the car.

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Thanks trundlenut. Knowing it can be done in situ gives me hope. Can you tell me if you had to rotate the shock round or did you do it vertically?

Also I dont have mole grips and I am going to get some. Is there anything more hi-tech to hold the top spindle?

Thanks trundlenut. Knowing it can be done in situ gives me hope. Can you tell me if you had to rotate the shock round or did you do it vertically?

Also I dont have mole grips and I am going to get some. Is there anything more hi-tech to hold the top spindle?

 

I did it vertically.  I used a bungee cord wrapped from the top mount down under the bottom of the shock to keep it compressed.  I think I used a swan neck spanner to hold the nut on the top and a hex bit on the shock to undo it.  Can't remember exactly now.

Looks like my vRS has got the same problem. Do these need replacing as soon as or OK for a few days?

If I showed you the state of mine and told you I had already done 10k miles, would you wait a few more days?

I did it vertically.  I used a bungee cord wrapped from the top mount down under the bottom of the shock to keep it compressed.  I think I used a swan neck spanner to hold the nut on the top and a hex bit on the shock to undo it.  Can't remember exactly now.

 

I dont think I can use a hex bit on the top as its a pin. I saw a vw tool T10001/9 which can be used to hold the pin whilst undoing the nut. I guess what I would need is a socket bit that has a rectangular hole which I can use to hold the nut steady. Remember this is all because I have to do this in situ. I might try and use a small 8mm socket to hold it, it might work.

I dont think I can use a hex bit on the top as its a pin. I saw a vw tool T10001/9 which can be used to hold the pin whilst undoing the nut. I guess what I would need is a socket bit that has a rectangular hole which I can use to hold the nut steady. Remember this is all because I have to do this in situ. I might try and use a small 8mm socket to hold it, it might work.

Sorry, I was getting confused with the front shocks. I did find some that fit, but I can't remember what it was now.

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Does anyone know the part number for the top mount bolts by any chance?

 

I can see that there a number of kits which contain the Mount + bolts. Or ideally if anyone can tell me the 'M' number and length. Am I correct in thinking its a 16mm M10x35?

 

EDIT: Is it this N90648402?

Edited 18 May, 201610 yr by UdayP

Hello

 

Does anybody know OEM part numbers of shock absorbers (front/rear) for octavia scout (2008)?

Hello

Does anybody know OEM part numbers of shock absorbers (front/rear) for octavia scout (2008)?

You should be able to see them stamped into the metal body of the strut. Skoda do two versions, the original and a cheaper value engineered version. You can't get the scout specific ones from ECP or GSF.