Guys does anyone know what my problems maybe before I spend loads of cash at the garage.

1. My abs light and a warning triangle light has started coming on intermittently on my display. Its only just started doing it and I'm wondering if its just the salt n crap off the road getting in the sensors? Should I be taking them off n cleaning them or could it be something more serious?

2. This is minor, but my interior light won't come on now when I open the drivers door and iv noticed also the red trim light doesn't work either. Could this be the fuse or the wiring lume??

Thanks guys for any help

Not sure about 1, but I dare say 2 is the microswitch in the door lock mech if they are the only symptoms, I had that with my lights left on buzzer as well, all working intermittently finally they all gave up. There is a link stickied in this section about replacing microswitch. But I'm not particularly electronically savvy so I bought a used lock mech for £20, sorted.

i think it maybe something to do with the wires as the light works again today?

I'd still say microswitch, my interior light, lights on buzzer and door puddle light were intermittent until the latter 2 gave up completely. You'd find the switch is starting to break up inside the mech from the shock of shutting the door. It's not completely come apart yet, hence weak connection, hence intermittent fault. Check the wiring from the door through the a pillar by all means as that also gets fatigued, but if they're your only symptoms I'd bet on microswitch. Common fault it is, as is wiring, but the switch more so, from what you've described it's the same as mine was, and others. If you're up for taking the door card off check the multiplug below the window motor which the microswitch signal passes through I think. Pretty sure you'll find its intermittent fault from switch that is the problem. It's also a cheaper easier fix than the loom so a good place to start anyway.

Cheers for that I'll have a go when I get time. Where can I buy a new switch. Dealer or eBay?

If you just want to get a switch Maplins or similar is the best bet. The switch itself isn't a dealer part as it's integral to the mech. To fit the new one you need to drill it out and solder the wires on and screw the new one in. The stickied how to guide by Bowders is very good and has the choices for switches. Alternatively you can go for a new lock mech, oem are pricey, pattern parts are more reasonable, used is a gamble but cheapest. As said I went for a used lock mech. Pretty easy swap once you've wrestled the barrel out and got the mech passed the window slider.

Edited 26 January, 201511 yr by YellowCar

Oh yeah, e bay for the used and cheapest pattern parts.

As for your number 1 problem it would be worth a vcds scan I think. If ABS light is coming on it may mean ABS may not be operating so be ready to pump the brakes yourself if you need to brake heavy. It could also be wiring issue, in any case I'd get that checked out.

Freedom, ive topped up the brake fluid this morning slightly and the light hasnt come on since? I hope that was all it was , low level fluid but would this be a possible cause. im going to still get it scanned on my mates vcds i think though. It seems like my car has all its problems at once as the rear reversing lights/sensors are intermittant to but i think this maybe a simply switch change. cheers for the advice

No problem, it's not a brake wear indicator light as well is it? Still be worth scanning. If intermittent fault ceases it may well have thrown a code that will be logged.

would any code be stored in the system then from previous faults?

Yeah so that may confuse the issue, however if their is a code that is directly related to your problems focus on those, then get them cleared and see what returns after you've fixed the issue/s in question. Some old codes may have had the problem fixed and not been cleared, so if it looks like you've opened a can of worms don't panic too much, you'll have a clearer picture after they've been cleared, current problems will then throw the code again eventually. Some issues don't throw codes, but don't worry about that now!

See if you can find someone local with a scanner and get it read for codes.

Also good that topping up brake fluid helped but you shouldn't need to top up unless there's a leak somewhere. I'd be checking for anything obvious...

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Had the car scanned and a fault did pop up with the front passenger side sensor, he reset the epu etc and re scanned it and now its fine and the lights not came on since!

happy days

Had the car scanned and a fault did pop up with the front passenger side sensor, he reset the epu etc and re scanned it and now its fine and the lights not came on since!

happy days

Good times

Oh, have you lost any more brake fluid by the way?

Oh, have you lost any more brake fluid by the way?

 

If no more replies, that may mean yes  

Probably means he's out there with a torch now.

Ah sorry not been on for awhile. Funny this has cropped up again the light is intermittent. So the abs fault is back so as the machine has shown a fault with abs sensor I will have a go at changing it. Are they easy to remove \ change myself and is it worth buying the expensive version or cheaper one. The expensive one is a pagid ??

Cheers guys

Check this

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/abs_adr_tcs_edl_esp/electric/electronic_components_and_fitting_locations_abs_abs/edl_mark_20/checking/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_abs_system_on_the_front_axle/

Not done one but I think it's unplug, remove, install, plug in.

Pagid brake stuff is good as aftermarket goes but sensors hhmmm don't know to be honest. Be tempted to go genuine, don't go ebay cheapy though whatever you do.

Cheers for the advice I may wait n get a genuine part then.

I did read in the thread you bumped that Pagid sensor could be good and worth a shout. No doubt a bit cheaper than gen.

Bought the pagid sensor and replaced it easily yday. Took me 45mins so was chuffed with that now just need to look at the reversing light as they keep flickering when I put it in reverse I assume its a loose wire somewhere hopefully