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cello

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    UK , the shires

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    FABIA VRS 05

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  1. Over the last few weeks noticed its getting getting more difficult to engage these gears and wonder what the issue is. Its like the clutch is only partially engaged and there is some drag from the flywheel making it hard to shift - cables or DMF worn issues or something else maybe..... Fabby as turned over 150K miles now and I can feel a bit of a knock at idle from the DMF clutch so suspect its this thats the issue. TiA
  2. DIY yes if you like to struggle, its worth it in the end but then again I'm built like that Why dont you have a VRS clutch change party ? Invite the right people from here and get some beers and curry in as a reward? Should all be done in about 5 hours minus the drinking
  3. Sticking brake calipers or thermostat maybe ?
  4. You dont get this issue with oi burners! Not helpful I know but I had a similar issue with a old 88 Gli Cavalier, turned out to be the ecu. She ran great when everything was ok, real smooth but when the issue was present it was all over the place. Good luck
  5. Yeah I had wondered about this, would it that mean that the thremostat stays shut and the water that feeds the radiator (temp sensor) , heater matrix would not get hot enough to produce a good flow of hot air through the cabin? I understand that the engine could overheat as well as there not be a good flow of water around the engine/cooling system or conversely the car would take longer to warm up if the thermostat stuck in the open position but ultimately once up to temp the heater should provide a normal hot charge of air into the cabin.
  6. I recently noticed my heater was more of a cold air mover then a heater and started to investigate..... 1) The hot air flap could be heard moving when the heater control is turned from C to H and back again when H to C where when the engine is warm does give a slight bit of hea but the higher the fan speed the less the heat is produced. 2) The Pollen Filter was checked and is clean-ish and dry. 3) The coolant was up to the correct level but looked brown-ish. I flushed the radiator a couple of times over a week and now the water is clean and have replaced with the right 50/50 mixture of coolant. I have yet to check the pipes to the heater matrix but believe the issue to be a blocked core , as i used radweld after i started to lose coolant back in 2013 and did notice the drop in the heater temperature at the time. However I noticed recently that the car does not get up to 90 deg C as quick as it used to do. In fact it hovers around the 70-80 for a while and now seems to take a 25 minute drive to reach 90 rather then the 10 minutes it used to do, from memory. Is there a way to check the impeller is still doing its job and has not sheared off , I guess I could take the expansion bottle off and rev the car which should increase the flow returning to the bottle or maybe there is another way? TiA
  7. And they reckon a DMF is the way to go as the clatter and vibration from the diesel engine is significantly reduced. Apparently some people who replaced a DMF with a SMF were not impressed with the differences as far as comfort and general running. Almost twenty years and 150K from a DMF I guess its a DMF for me in the spring (!)
  8. Thanks for all the replies, yes I think with the clutch disengaged the idle is fine, its only when engaged the issue is apparent. I dont do any launches as such but sometimes when feeding in second gear from too low a speed I get a squeak , which I guess is clutch related although could be the gearbox mount as well maybe. Any idea how long the clutch/DMF might last before she fails completely and what are my options , another DMF or something simpler? I'm not really into tuning her up but I might be persuaded to get a 180HP remap in the future just for fun , nothing silly just a bit more poke for fun. Not sure if that limits my options re the clutch but will have a look around the forum for advice. TIA
  9. Just thought I would mention it and wondered if anyone has noticed their car have a slight but regular drop in revs at idle? Very minor but coul dbe the sign of something about to go wrong. My thought was maybe its the clutch @149K making a rumble and then I saw a post on camshaft wear at idle mmmmmmm I know its not the right forum but I need a drivers door in silver after I got taken out my a drunk in a old range rover......what a daft **** he is! My third no fault attack on the VRS in just over to years,,,,, what am I a **** magnet Grrrrrrrrrrr
  10. I just cleared my AirBag light with VCDS lite (Free Program) and a Blue OBD II cable from Ebay for £7. Suggest you try this before spending anything more on a bespoke reader , the code I had referred to a lost or intermittent connection to the AB Controller. Good Luck Buddy
  11. Any car is just a collection of parts, replace, upgrade or if you have the room just keep it and get another jalopy to do the daily grind. The engine has to be good for 250k plus but not the turbo, clutch , exhaust etc Saying that I'm almost up to 150K and 18 years and all original so far replaced coil springs, brake discs , radiator, front wind screen , passenger window mech and aux belts but not the cam belt thats well over due and must happen this spring summer ...... good luck with yours buddy!
  12. Poor fuel consumption , check the brake calipers (or the discs after a very short drive). If you end up with a dirty and burnt finger when touching the discs then you have a sticking / seized brake caliper.
  13. PS - I use the car as intended for shopping , runabout , moving me and others around, its a great do it all car but not a racing car. To demonstrate I used to get a average of 70MPG when I commuted 70 miles each way but only on the way back , not the way there !
  14. Thanks for your input, I must say I have used helicoils before and they have done a great job so dont have any reservations about using them here. There does seem to be a difference in price for the new control arm brackets and not sure if there is any difference in quality but there could be hence me wishing to use the original part if possible. The console bushes were replaced a fair while ago granted but as I used Meyle Hd one's they appear to be doing well and bedded in. If I change one I should do the otherside as well for balance and really dont want to be doing that and the L/H bracket etc as well, no doubt I will have to at some point.... The Wishbone arm was replaced due to the MOT tester failing this part as it was badly corroded.....well corroded imo badly I,m not so sure but I like upgrading the Fab where possible so no worries. Spalling , whats that turning , twisting or stripping ?
  15. It look s like the thread has gone on my CAB after the wishbone arm was replaced and torqued up, knocking noise now appearing from the O/S front and on inspecting the bolt it just spins without tightening, oh pooh! I can get a replacement bracket but have also investigated the helicoil option and will probably go down this route as otherwise I will have to replace the console bush's as well and the less effort the better I say. I have sourced a 110mm bolt that may work to hold it together for a few months until the weather improves so will see on day if that ,might help but wondered if anyone has done the work already and aware of anything I need to be wary of. I really dont need another bolt losing ts thread or shearing off when i go to remove the CAB so here's what I intend to do.... Jack up both side of the car and sat the axle stands on max so I have room to work. Remove the Wishbone Arm as per standard procedures. Remove roll bar, torsion bar bolts then the three bolts that hold the CAB onto the car. I have already started cleaning the exposed ends of the bolts and dousing with WD40 and will source a new 100mm bolt from Skoda should the 110mm not work. I'm wondering if there is any other stretch bolts I need to purchase as well but think its only the one the holds the WB arm onto the CAB I need. Thanks for your wisdom.....
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