(I will get services done as required, just wanted to get around the car and also change the run in oil myself).

Just a brief overview with most of the things I was wondering about before I set out to do it. It was interesting finally being able to get under the car for the first time, and being able to give the engine bay floor and underside a good clean, found loads of salt from gritters in the engine bay bottom! How it gets in there amazes me. I was initially undecided on whether plastic under trim over the whole car was a good idea but I am a firm believer in it now.

Air Filter Change

Nice and simple, fitted a PiperCross (PP1895) lifetime filter. Doesn't effect the manufactures warranty, and a lot cheaper that the K&N versions. Torx screws to access. Am sure there's a little more intake noise to, just a little, more noticeable upon cold startup idle revs. (Left window slightly open)

Oil and Oil Filter Change

Items I needed for the job were a new OEM Oil Filter including drain plug and housing cap 'O' Rings (03N115562), and also some Castrol Edge 5W 30 Fully Synthetic FST Oil (4.6L Required).

Couldn't decide on sump plug replacement, I have done various ones before replacing the seals, however there is only a fixed washer where the thread does the sealing and the torque on the plug is not large enough to even thing about stretching threads.

Tools and Torques

32 mm socket with extension bar for oil filter housing cap which is to be set to a torque of 25.5nm. (It's plastic so you will feel a little cautious as you tighten it after replacement but it seems quite tough).

13mm socket and extension for the oil filter housing drain plug, which is to be set to a torque of 5.2Nm

19mm socket for sump plug, couldn't find the torque settings laid down anywhere but I believe SITRO 30-40Nm is okay. Plug itself has fixed washer.

Locations and Access

To access both the sump plug and the oil filter you will ideally need to elevate the car using a lift, I suppose I could of done it with front elevation at a push if no other options.

There is plastic engine bay trim to be be removed to access the sump plug and the oil filter. It is held on by several Torx screws, and three larger ones towards the back of the engine bay. Once removed the Sump plug is easily accessible, however the oil filter is a little more tricky to get to. Located in front of the engine, accessible from below (once engine bay underside trim removed) there is a cable conduit that must be detached and moved to one side to allow the filter to be removed, and care needs to be taken to protect the coolant pump which is located below the filter housing, I really can see problems arising here where certain garage fitters in a rush to get the job done (kwikfiters) already annoyed from removing lots of Torx screws and plastic trim will not take care and could possibly cause damage, which is why I enjoy doing the job myself!

The filter is pushed up firmly into the housing over the internal stay/sheath (with a firm fit, a little persuasion maybe required) and has clips on the bottom that clip into the housing lid (like most other manufacturers) once it is offered up and tightened. Side by siding the filters I noticed the newer model (both OEM) had a larger disc of sealing material on top. Could only add seal contact area so no worries there.

Hope this helps if you are seeking info on servicing!

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Thanks for sharing!

Very nice wire up

Tsi vrs needs 6l. Easy to do from ramps, oil filter is on the top by the dip and self draining. A 2p coin works great on the sump plug.

Job done.

Sounds a little easier for the TSI! Anyone know for certain about the sump plug torque?

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On the tsi the sump plug only goes about 3/4 turn, ending with 2 lugs locating.

On the tsi the sump plug only goes about 3/4 turn, ending with 2 lugs locating.

Yup you can't really over torque it as you just twist it in. Doesn't tighten like a conventional thread it just twists in and clicks to lock. And a 2p is indeed ideal

I suspect anybody that hasn't removed the sump plug will be thinking '2p?! Wtf??'.   You'll understand if you try it. Promise.

 

Tsi looks much easier then the TDI. No undertray to remove and very easy access to filter and plug.  Filter is self draining, un screw the cap but leave in place for a minute or two to let the oil drain (a rod down the centre lifts a plug out neat really) then lift off.

 

I noticed mine has a little blue 'paint' tell tale across the join of the filter cover (which didn't quite line back up after I torqued the cover back up). Does everyone have this?

I suspect anybody that hasn't removed the sump plug will be thinking '2p?! Wtf??'. You'll understand if you try it. Promise.

Tsi looks much easier then the TDI. No undertray to remove and very easy access to filter and plug. Filter is self draining, un screw the cap but leave in place for a minute or two to let the oil drain (a rod down the centre lifts a plug out neat really) then lift off.

I noticed mine has a little blue 'paint' tell tale across the join of the filter cover (which didn't quite line back up after I torqued the cover back up). Does everyone have this?

Mine didn't however it did have a little red one that I put on before I took it in for its first free service... It came back in a slightly different place so all is good

I suspect anybody that hasn't removed the sump plug will be thinking '2p?! Wtf??'.   You'll understand if you try it. Promise.

It's even worse for non UK residents since our banks won't just change 2p, will they? Putting in danger the whole operation.

Joefifty, thanks a lot for sharing.

I suspect a 2 euro coin would be ideal too.  2p is cheaper though if you have one