indars

Commercial VAG cars with EA288 engine (VW Crafter, for example) use non-switchable coolant pump from factory. Some aftermarket pump brands also offers them as alternative. Answer (to install it or no) is not obvious, based on what I found in various forums, hmm... Some guys reported pro-longed warm-up time. Some guys said- I don't care, almost no difference in warm-up, safety (against shroud sticking possibility) is more important. From '2013, this pump had plenty of improvements and updated ID numbers- I'd like to trust that now it's all ok with switchable pump. In next weeks will do 1st timing job for my TDI and will install proper/switchable pump. If not-switchable pump is installed, you should re-install valve from old pump (screw it into void bore of new pump and connect plug; hence, no errors should be expected). More info: The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread - Page 8 - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA If

If this is Pos.15 then it's included in scope of whole trim Pos.1 and is not sold separately. So, old item should be repaired or 3D printer should be involved.

As for my taste, Std suspension gives good balance between handling and comfort- and Sachs struts are not stiff! Installed front Sachs few years ago and it feels like 1:1 as Std- even with 225/45R17 tyres. Other options are TRW indeed (approx.same as Sachs since both brands are under ZF group), Monroe and black=Std Bilstein (they're not expensive). MagnetiMarelli? I suppose, they don't make their own struts and there will be something re-branded under MM logo. As for Sachs, quality had dropped down last years...my new Sachs (1 of them) got wet after few weeks. As for KYB, have heard various opinions, so not clear for me- are they good/bad/stiff/soft...

As for rear back plate replacement, bearing must be dismounted. As for front (bearing shouldn't be dismounted)- I placed pieces of plastic isolating tape between "bolt head/cover plate/bearing housing". Front cover plates are from aluminum and damage occurs exactly in bolt head area; isolating tape helps to divide all those types metals. Various electrochemical activity, you know...

My Octy have 288mm discs on front (PR code 1ZE) and strut diameter is 50mm. Nothing has been modified.

Why to replace working battery? Anyway, go for AGM- if will decide to replace it.

207k km '2016 Octy here, with beam rear axle: Rear shocks/springs/upper supports still original. Front springs replaced at 123k km (one was broken; OE>Lesjofors now). Front shocks replaced at 175k km (one was leaking; OE>Sachs now). Top supports was ok, left old/OE ones. To say more, Sachs quality is not like it was time before...one of new Sachs is wet all the time.

Am adding MIN-MAX level (0.3L) each year and for me those are 22'000km. So, up to 0.2L/1000km seems a lot.

IF this is coolant thermostat housing, there should be clips. Part No. 1J0121142 (at least, for my 11/2016 110kW 2.0L TDI)

How to identify loud bearing which have no movement, rotates +/- free and doesn't change sound to LEFT/RIGHT sharp turns: rotate wheel and hold suspension spring in same time. There should be zero vibrations on hand. Zero=absolutely nothing. Slightest vibrato will indicate broken bearing. Been there few days ago. Bearing replaced, all cool now. Old bearing (OE item, installed under warranty at Škoda dealer workshop) lasted only 104'300km.

My TDI is approaching 210k km and then belt/pump/rollers will be replaced for 1st time.

Replaced all four on my '2016 Octy 3 'at 194k km last week (error was on 3d expensive plug, with press.sensor). All unscrewed nice, on hot engine, without soaking in penetrating fluid (torque wrench doesn't clicked even on 20Nm). From factory, 3 were Bosch and 1 was Beru. There was doubt about tightening but ended-up with factory recommendation 17Nm (simple plug) and 12Nm (press.sensor plug) / dry. All four new are Beru now and they recommend use ceramic grease and 15...20Nm for both types of those M10x1 plugs. -- How correctly dismantle 3d electrical plug without risk to damage it? This question remains open. I opened fixing plastic tabs with 2 hooks.

Just did this on my 6-speed manual box. Drained/filled exactly 2.2L, thks for help from this topic. Filled with Ravenol MTF-3 SAE 75W, with help of big syringe (just be sure to get normal one, because cheap metallic syringes leaks through all gaps).

Glad we sorted it. That's why Pos.5 ('simple' glow plugs) in catalogue doesn't indicate quantity. Because "X" can be "3" or "4" (all similar, 'simple' plugs).