Does the MOT Test require the Window to be fully functional i.e. wind up and down ?

 

Reason for asking - the regulator on the passenger side of my 12 year Fab was just given up the ghost and my MOT's in late Feb.

 

Unfortunately, finances are a bit tight at the moment and the annual service and other things (Local dealer was pursuing me for a second cam belt change, even though I've only done 20,000 in the last 5 years !) is likely to set me back £600 + VAT (London prices) and the last time I had a regulator changed (Drivers side) 4 years ago it cost near on £170 (London prices).

 

To save money I think I'll do it myself, using a £20 kit,  but as its winter and I've only just completed Chemotherapy, I was thinking of postponing it till the summer.

 

I was wondering, purely as a temporary measure (Of course !), to use a slotted wooden prop inside the door frame to support the window in the fully closed position, per this video (See end of vid @ 13:49).

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5RmoZye3SQ

 

Could I just take the trim off, without removing the screwed/riveted centre plate and say slide a couple of bamboo canes in to support the window ?

 

 

Nick

Edited 25 November, 201510 yr by Clunkclick

Windows don't have to open for the MOT test, there not tested.

For those that are interested, compare (And contrast) the simplicity and ease of replacing the window regulator (And motor assembly) in this Buick:-

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep8oj8v44PQ

 

 

With the complexity and difficulty of doing the same operation in the Fabia per the vid in my first post - 10 minutes for the Buick, at least 50 minutes for the Fab. Euh ?

 

Using my favourite phrase again, "Industrial designers, don't you love 'em" - well, they're certainly VAG master mechanics bestist friends.

 

 

Roll-on the full implementation of  North Atlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP).

 

 

Nick

Edited 25 November, 201510 yr by Clunkclick

 The ones in my old punto worked when they felt like it and it passed 2 MOTs but this was 10 years ago

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 25 November, 201510 yr by WeirdKerr

Unfortunately,  one or more of the bicycle cables wires has broken - you can hear it thrashing about inside the door frame when you operate the motor - in the retracted position. Makes me think somebody may be having a go at the window, as a couple of weeks ago I found half open one morning.

 

I couldn't fix it today, as I was at my last Chemo session. So tomorrow, I'm going to have to  recover the window to the closed position (Double-sided tape and a metal ruler ?), and either tape it closed, or (Preferred) take the trim off and stick-in a couple of bamboo canes to support the window.

 

 

Nick

I don't think you could get a cane through the inspection hole, so you would have to remove the whole carrier to get a prop in.

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Thinking about it, it might be even easier to raise the window and then run a couple of  heavy duty cable ties through each inspection hole  in the carrier to some fixing points in the frame mounting for the outside door skin just to act as longstops in the event that the window starts to slide in the runners.

 

I imagine that once the window is raised, the friction in the side runners will be enough to keep the window in place during normal operation (It might be excess friction here, over a long period, that caused the cables to snap in the first place. ).

 

Oh well, all part of the new age approach or "Vorsprung Dcik Technic" as its often termed.

 

Nick

Edited 26 November, 201510 yr by Clunkclick

Thinking about it, it might be even easier to raise the window and then run a couple of heavy duty cable ties through each inspection hole in the carrier to some fixing points in the frame mounting for the outside door skin just to act as longstops in the event that the window starts to slide in the runners.

I imagine that once the window is raised, the friction in the side runners will be enough to keep the window in place during normal operation (It might be excess friction here, over a long period, that caused the cables to snap in the first place. ).

Oh well, all part of the new age approach or "Vorsprung Dcik Technic" as its often termed.

Nick

I bet one of the plastic sliders has snapped and the end of the cable has come out. Then it loses all the tension and makes nasty noises. Unfortunately once the slider snaps it provides less friction on the runner and also allows more movement so the window won't stay up on its own and may well twist in door.

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So, in-effect, its been designed to prevent get-you-home repair and temporary repair.

 

Me thinks that Mr China of Wheeler Dealer fame will be waxing less lyrical in 10 years time when it comes to restoring modern day VAG stuff.

 

Wonder what the fourth emergency service and the like do in these circumstances ?

 

If I can get the top egde of the carrier released i.e. without drilling out the rivets, then, perhaps I could, poke up some suitably shaped hard foam poly foam to hold the window in place supported by cable ties underneath or even the wood prop ?

 

Come to that I have got a builders type  hand-operated rivet gun and given a bit of good weather . .  What sized rivets does the carrier take ?

 

 

Nick

Edited 26 November, 201510 yr by Clunkclick

The carrier should bolted to the door and easy to undo. It's the runners which are riveted to the carrier. You could undo the bottom bolts and feed a piece of wood in from the bottom.

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Cheers. I'll  have a look . Let's hope the window's not jammed in the runners.

 

 

Nick

Edited 26 November, 201510 yr by Clunkclick

Cheers. I'll have a look . Let's hope the window's not jammed in the runners.

Nick

It shouldn't be. I managed to lever the window up a bit then pulled it back up and taped it in place until I got the carrier off. You need to lift the window to the level of the two little windows in order to undo the bolts and release the window from the mechanism in order to remove the carrier.

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The other thought that occurs is what are the possibilities of causing a water leak i.e. the bain of early Fabia doors, through my repairing activities.

 

Nick

The other thought that occurs is what are the possibilities of causing a water leak i.e. the bain of early Fabia doors, through my repairing activities.

Nick

Wang some silicone sealant round the carrier when you put it back on.

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