Have few codes poppin up...P0172,17705,17545

Going to try get friends vagcom to log boost and maf.If anyone can help me make sense of it would be great.should i just post the logs here?

Anything else i should log aswel while i have the vagcom??

Thanks in advance

There's a sticky here about 17705, often attributed to boost leak, mine was bad remap software. Put those codes into Ross tech website and will give symptoms and possible cures.

As I said in the message you'll need fuel trims, lambdas, knock sensor and n75 but I can't remember the block numbers.

But yes post them up (just the key part where you're wide open throttle preferably) I'll try and decipher some but it would be good if someone with more knowledge comes in too.

By the way in that 17705 sticky is also some on logging fuel trim which is block 032 as it turns out. Some of the blocks require you to also log engine speed which I think is the torque reading, can't remember block number though I'm afraid.

There's a sticky here about 17705, often attributed to boost leak, mine was bad remap software. Put those codes into Ross tech website and will give symptoms and possible cures.

As I said in the message you'll need fuel trims, lambdas, knock sensor and n75 but I can't remember the block numbers.

But yes post them up (just the key part where you're wide open throttle preferably) I'll try and decipher some but it would be good if someone with more knowledge comes in too.

Cheers mate. Ive tracked down the block numbers.

Is 2nd gear ok? Tried 3rd on way home but was only at 4krpm and alteady over 100k's.gonna wait till road quiets down this evening anyway

By the way in that 17705 sticky is also some on logging fuel trim which is block 032 as it turns out. Some of the blocks require you to also log engine speed which I think is the torque reading, can't remember block number though I'm afraid.

Does that mean for example you would be logging fuel trim and speed at the same time.

Vag seems to give me the option to log 3 groups at dame time

Ill have a look at the sticky.Had that code years ago along with stuttery acceleration but changed out to new N75 and was sorted

3rd gear is best because of loading everything properly. Really you need 4th but obviously that's not possible on roads. 2nd will give you an idea but...

You can log 3 blocks but the more you log the less accuracy you get. Just stick to 2 but only if you have to, one at a time is best.

No runs 2nite lol found big hole in oil breather under intake.think i have to order this one for the correct size in there.

Thanks for the advice Jon

No runs 2nite lol found big hole in oil breather under intake.think i have to order this one for the correct size in there.

Thanks for the advice Jon

I dare say that won't be helping your issue much, hopefully it sorts it all out, it may not but at least you can cross it off.

I dare say that won't be helping your issue much, hopefully it sorts it all out, it may not but at least you can cross it off.

Yup.somewhere to start anyway.hopefully get that sorted early tomorrow and then see what the logs have to say.doubt its the sole cause of codes but can always hope

attached a file of block 115 i did yesterday

don't know if theres any point putting it up as i found busted breather hose yesterday too but what the hell

dealer wanted €51 for the hose. got it on GSF for €32

LOG-01-115-conor2.CSV

Edited 5 February, 201610 yr by huwants2no

Couldn't open this with phone, will have a look on laptop later. How's it running anyway? Did you get the hose on? When you've fitted it, clear codes see what returns.

Couldn't open this with phone, will have a look on laptop later. How's it running anyway? Did you get the hose on? When you've fitted it, clear codes see what returns.

Hasn't been turned over since. Have the hose ordered,hopefully get monday but went to take the busted breather out and it kinda crumbled/fell apart. Now the bottom part is well stuck in the oil pan side of it.WD40 and an hour of skinning knuckles and didn't pop out so figure I'll whip off the manifold to make it much easier. Ordered a new mani gasket too so can change that when in there and should be easier to check other hoses for leaks with the extra room.

cheers buddy talk later

No worries mate, good luck. Quick tip, those awful hose oem clips make great expanding grabbers for getting bits of hose out if you open them out. I used one to pull out the broken bottom part of my dipstick, don't know if it suits your application but there you go

No worries mate, good luck. Quick tip, those awful hose oem clips make great expanding grabbers for getting bits of hose out if you open them out. I used one to pull out the broken bottom part of my dipstick, don't know if it suits your application but there you go

will keep that in mind. think it should be fairly handy once manifold out of way.just really awkward under there with big hands

It's just plain awkward under there full stop

Hope you don't mind me asking a question on your thread I seen it was about codes and thought it ant worth starting a new thread when there is one already talking about code issues. my son inlaw got him self a mk1 octy vrs 18t the othere day and it has started showing the engine management light, took it to my local indi garage and he put it on his diognostic machine and it came up with a code sorry carnt remember for the life of me what code it was p12 something or other lol anyway it was something to do with air pressure from the turbo & throttle body.the car has been fitted with a dump valve by the prieveuse owner and the machanic said to take the dump valve off that will sort the engine management light out so it dosent come on.dose that sound right ? Could the dump valve be making the e m l come on ? And is the easy answer to just take it off and replace it with a strait through peace of vacume pipe?

Take it off and fit a standard diverter valve. These cars are totally regulated by air and as dump valves lose air that has been measured and accounted for the system doesn't like it sometimes.

However without the full code it could be tricky to say, but it sounds like it may be a code referring to pressure on the charge side. Has it gone into limp mode (basically like driving with no turbo, very flat) and has it been remapped?

But yes first step for me would be swap out the dump valve, clear the code and see what happens. Standard diverter valve won't do the car any harm at all whatever happens.

Thanks for your reply,the guy he got the car off said it hasn't been remapped and it feels pretty quick but not remapped quick and for limp mode no it was running and pulling like it should do even when the light was on everything was fine just the light on, it has defonetly got an aftermarket dump valve on.you say take the dump valve off and fit a standered diverter valve is this the valve that should be fitted from skoda?

And is that where he would need to get one from ?

Sorry for my lack of understanding I know nothing about mods on a car but am I right in thinking the dump valve is fitted inline on a vacum pipe?

And he will need to take this one off and replace with the type that the car was originally fitted with from the factory?

It's not my car you see so I just need to be clear before I relay the advice I have been given.

Cheers kev.

Can anyone tel me Whitch standard diverter valve he will need please?

Just had a look on the bay and there seems to be a phew different ones cheers kev.

P.s the car is a 2002 model

Edited 7 February, 201610 yr by Kevgem

Not sure how it's been fitted there but it should be a fairly straightforward swap out, and it looks like one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Volkswagen-Turbo-circulation-06A-145-710-N/dp/B00A82GPGI

Give your car details to Skoda (or any vag garage for that matter) and they will sort you out

Thanks very much for your help I will tel him what he needs cheers kev.

No worries, see you put up a want ad, good idea forgot to suggest that, someone should have one

Boost looks fine and stock to me as does your air fuel ratio.

Boost looks fine and stock to me as does your air fuel ratio.

 

Thanks for the help John. So thats as it should be for a stock setup...

I'll try get the other blocks done aswel in 3rd

Is 113 the measuring block to add N75 duty cycle to the boost log?