Getting back into MTB'ing

[matt_theforce]

Saddle bag vs camelback..

 

In my younger days, I always used a camelback when out on my mtb & saddlebag when riding road/cx.  My reasons were I carried a couple more tools whem mtb'ing as I was generally further away from help if something happened, it also allowed me to carry more snacks/water/clothing should the un-thinkable happen. 

 

The main disadvantages with a camelback for me is the sweaty back, bags have improved alot since I last used them so maybe this isn't such a problem now-a-days. 

The main disadvantages with a water bottle when mtb'ing is the rather tasty water that you drink when you bottle is suitably covered in mud and farm muck.

 

Apart from that with my abilities, I've never noticed a major difference in handling, it's just what you get used to and prefer.

 

Despite my distance riding, I now plan my rides with cafe's/corner shops in mind, I now travel much lighter food/drink's wise as I know I can stop off for more supplies if needed.  This means if I'm off road I usually have a 750ml bottle & a tool bottle holder , if I'm out for a long road ride I will take x2 bottles and a saddle bag for my tools.

 

It's all personal preference & as you start to cycle more you will find what suits you and what your body needs to keep going.

 

Just remeber ..Rule #10 It never gets easier, you just go faster.

[VRS Mike]

Nice bike VRS Mike.

What is it costing you a month on your salary sacrifice ? Thinking of asking my employer to set this up.

It's taken from your salary before tax and NI. Works out around £60 a month. Savings are about 40%

[VRS Mike]

First ride out today, some the hills to get up to the ridgeway were killer, but once up there I found it really enjoyable. Managed 60kph coming downhill back home. Bikes alll clean now, just need to get some chain lube.

[YellowCar]

Nice work mate, I can recommend getting some citrus degreaser and a chain cleaner too. GT85 is good because its cheapish, flushes out water after a wash and is a pretty good all round lube

Make sure you cover discs and calipers before spraying though, I use a plastic bag.

Edited 18 September, 2016 by YellowCar

[Tilt]

I would recommend a chain 'quick link', and to remove your chain to clean.

 

I drop mine into a jar of white spirit. Gets a load of crap out (not just off) and then into another with fresh stuff, to finish cleaning take out, hook one end to something and run a dish brush up and down the length and hang up to dry. Use the (was) fresh stuff for your next, first dip.

 

I fold into four and place on a piece of paper to run a little oil into the links. Fold back and dribble again. Leave a while, turn over and repeat.

Doesn't take very long and gives you a thoroughly clean chain. If you do only half a job you have probably wasted your time.

For forks lube use motorcycle suspension oil as same as mtb stuff only way cheaper, and apply a little with a cotton bud stick just above the seals before each ride. (press on the forks like this to lift the muck out too, then re-lube).

 

I recommend a front mudguard, if only to protect your bottom (headset) bearings, and I keep my Camelbak in the freezer which (hopefully) stops any nasties growing. (be wary of this).

 

You may need a fork pump too. And I swapped my clips for multi release ones too. I cannot remember the details but they must be easy to source and definitely made my spd use more enjoyable as easier to use.

 

I too spent a good wad on a light ages ago (owlet) but you can get fantastic torches nowadays for peanuts, which make perfect bike lights.

Edited 21 September, 2016 by Tilt

[YellowCar]

How often do you do that to your chain? Sounds like a twice a year job to me lol. Chain cleaners are fine if you do it after every off road ride, keeps on top of it. Never had a problem with chain longevity. Good cleaning regime but sounds like too much hassle to do regularly.

[Tilt]

Totally depends on where / when you ride. Mud, rain, snow.........

 

Seriously without including the standing time letting the oil seep into the links it probably takes me around half an hour.

 

Old coffee jars cost nowt, pot brush about a quid and large pot of white spirit circa three quid from Wilko.

[YellowCar]

Mmmeehhh, maybe I'm lazy, cant be bothered with that and I ride in a range of conditions. If I had a sram chain Id consider it but I'm on shimano atm...and citrus degreaser is biodegradable if you're into that tree hugging sort of thing. I do find good chain cleaners pretty effective to be honest, never felt the need for much more. I use wet or dry lube as well, GT85 displaces the water, but is a pretty good all conditions lube in itself.

[VRS Mike]

did the first proper night ride last night, it was a 25 miler which burnt 1500 calories! I need to eat more before going or take some snacks as I was feeling a little bit empty by the end.

The SPD pedals tripped me three times, it was quiet rutty and I couldn't release quickly enough, so after the third time I left my right shoe unclipped in the worst areas.

 

Was really good fun and I kept pace with the main pack quiet well. My fitness is pretty good but I could feel my thighs were not used to the constant abuse lol.

 

One thing I have found is that I seem to have issues with my right wrist, not sure if it's carpal or not, I've ordered some padded gloves and will try and be more relaxed with my grip on future rides.

 

There were some really nice bikes on the ride, I think my £900 was by far the cheapest lol.

[YellowCar]

Good stuff mate. Your legs will get used to it, rest periods are important as that's when the strength is built up. Eat a protein heavy meal after your ride and/or some protein recovery drink. I tend to drink a full bottle of sports drink before my ride, and will have a gel as I set off. I'll carry plain water on the ride,if riding for over an hour and a half will maybe have another gel. If you eat something 45 mins to an hour in that will help keep the sicky feeling away. Peoples needs vary but there's a ball park. I can recommend carrying:

Jelly babies

Cadburys brunch bar

Maybe a jam sandwich on longer rides

1 litre of water per hour

Couple of gels (these will also help a little with weary legs)

Raisins or Banana(raisins actually have more potassium weight for weight than bananas and easier to carry. Potassium is good for keeping cramp away)

Crisps (salt is also good, but you'll get that from gels and drinks as well)

Find what works for you, there's some suggestions, oh and caffeine is becoming pretty popular too...

[Tilt]

 (salt is also good,

Only if you are sweating though. Not so necessary in wintertime usually.

 

I use PSP Go electrolyte in summer, but just their standard Energy drink in winter.

[VRS Mike]

I didn't get any cramps, was just hungry! I'll take a couple of breakfast bars on the next ride

[YellowCar]

Only if you are sweating though. Not so necessary in wintertime usually.

 

I use PSP Go electrolyte in summer, but just their standard Energy drink in winter.

On the contrary, you'll burn just as much minerals, maybe even more in winter when its cold. Its not just about sweating, its about topping up what you use and sweating is not a gauge, nor is thirst. Thirst is a result of dehydration, not a symptom, so if you're thirsty, dehydration has already started, hence why we should regularly and have at least 500ml per hour, to prevent dehydration. Same goes for intake of nutrients, keep topped up before its too late. Plus when its cold men generally urinate more, which means you're not retaining as much fluid or minerals. If the hunger or thirst kicks in and you still have an hour to ride then that's bad news, whatever time of year. Id never advise people to limit what they take. Better to bring some stuff home than do yourself in. I don't change what I use summer to winter, and I don't know many drinks that don't have electrolytes loaded up.

[Tilt]

Only if you are sweating though. Not so necessary in wintertime usually.

 

I use PSP Go electrolyte in summer, but just their standard Energy drink in winter.

 

 

On the contrary, you'll burn just as much minerals, maybe even more in winter when its cold. Its not just about sweating, its about topping up what you use and sweating is not a gauge, nor is thirst. Thirst is a result of dehydration, not a symptom, so if you're thirsty, dehydration has already started, hence why we should regularly and have at least 500ml per hour, to prevent dehydration. Same goes for intake of nutrients, keep topped up before its too late. Plus when its cold men generally urinate more, which means you're not retaining as much fluid or minerals. If the hunger or thirst kicks in and you still have an hour to ride then that's bad news, whatever time of year. Id never advise people to limit what they take. Better to bring some stuff home than do yourself in. I don't change what I use summer to winter, and I don't know many drinks that don't have electrolytes loaded up.

Re salt :- Cycling News use the phrase "Athletes, however, need significantly more sodium than their inactive counterparts; the exact amount varies greatly between individuals depending on sweat volume and sweat sodium concentration".

 

I didn't mention minerals as a general subject nor do I need to have dehydration explained to me, nor hunger.

 

Sorry to be blunt but I (nor most people) do not like being 'corrected' with incorrect information, or at very least, when the information I give is not incorrect.  .

[YellowCar]

Re salt :- Cycling News use the phrase "Athletes, however, need significantly more sodium than their inactive counterparts; the exact amount varies greatly between individuals depending on sweat volume and sweat sodium concentration".

I didn't mention minerals as a general subject nor do I need to have dehydration explained to me, nor hunger.

Sorry to be blunt but I (nor most people) do not like being 'corrected' with incorrect information, or at very least, when the information I give is not incorrect. .

Keep your shirt on, I thought I was adding to what you said rather than blatantly correcting or saying the opposite, I did say its not just about sweating, rather than it was irrelevant. You picked up on one

minor suggestion in a whole list and ran with it, but that's fine. Sorry if I caused you any offense, bear in mind it was largely written for the OPs benefit, I also suggested that out of that list he can find what works for him.

You also assume that because you're riding in winter you wont be sweating? Not strictly true is it, especially with extra layers on. Fwiw I've experienced cramp on longer rides done at a steady pace, hence not sweating much.

Edited 24 September, 2016 by YellowCar

[JohnMcL7]

I definitely agree with the quick link recommendation, really handy to get going quickly after a chain break.  A lot of MTB stuff comes down to preference and I'm sure you'll settle into whatever suits you, I was digging though my older cycling videos from when I started mountain biking and quite amused at how different is to now...I wonder how I ever managed with a very weak single light, a coffee flask thing for water (I thought it was better at keeping it cool, not really it turned out), heavy clothing etc.

 

I do find this time of year a little tricky for mountain biking as it's going from dry trails and no lights to muddy trails, waterproofs and lights but then you quickly get used to it and that's what I like about mountain biking, even on cold, wet and muddy nights you can still get out and enjoy yourself.  

 

John

[Tilt]

 (salt is also good,

 

 

Only if you are sweating though. Not so necessary in wintertime usually.

 

I use PSP Go electrolyte in summer, but just their standard Energy drink in winter.

 

 

On the contrary,

 

 

 I thought I was adding to what you said rather than blatantly correcting or saying the opposite,

 

I thought you were blatantly correcting or saying the opposite. My mistake? :no: .

 

You say "keep your shirt on", but the thumb up was so we do not get into a silly argument.

You say "I picked up on one minor suggestion in a whole list and ran with it". I politely added an extra bit of information to this which I thought was quite relevant. I do not call that running with it!

 

It is nice when people are willing to swallow their pride and admit they were not (at least totally) correct, instead of coming back with more.

 

You also said sweating is not a gauge, when it is the main factor as backed up by the reference I gave.

[VRS Mike]

already looking at new bikes, new this would be an expensive hobby. I've got my eye on a used full suspension bike for some more rough downhill stuff. 

 

I've been out a few times now, usually do around 20 miles and seem to be keeping pace with some of the experienced guys.

[RampantBadger]

Good to see more people getting back into mountain biking, the trek looks lovely.

 

the biggest improvement I have made on my bike is to go tubeless, you can run lower pressures to get more grip without worrying about pinch flats plus the sealant in the tyre stops any regular punctures too.

[VRS Mike]

Just ordered some mud tyres. Was going to go tubeless but will stick with the slim tubes I'm currently running. Will demo a full suspension bike at some point to see what they are like. On some of the rough stuff downhill people are going past me as they can pedal where my back end is all over the place ooooo er!

[Tilt]

Just ordered some mud tyres. Was going to go tubeless but will stick with the slim tubes I'm currently running. Will demo a full suspension bike at some point to see what they are like. On some of the rough stuff downhill people are going past me as they can pedal where my back end is all over the place ooooo er!

My winter Panaracer's are puncture resistant, and work very well, but with my summer tyres - Continental Mountain King;s being more susceptible to punctures I use downhill tubes with the minimum sizing to equal my tyre size.

 

For instance my tyres are 2.2, and so I use tubes that range 2.2 to 2.6. This means that when they are inflated inside the tyre the inner tube rubber is not actually stretched.

 

The pros - Has allowed me to continue my ride and make it home on a few occasions after getting a thorn in the tyre. Must leave the thorn in place.

Usually only noticed the following day by the tyre deflating overnight.

Any repairs can be done in comfort at home.

 

The con - Makes it more difficult to get the inner tube in the tyre when fitting / changing / repairing tyre or tube.

Edited 18 October, 2016 by Tilt

[VRS Mike]

My slime tubes have definitely prevented one puncture. When I swap them into the new tyres tomorrow I will know exactly how many punctures I should have had.

One bloke from the bike club reckons his tubeless tyres would have had 30 punctures this summer.

I'm sure I'll go tubeless at some point.

[Hardcore]

I agree with the advise earlier in this thread about a quick link style chain link to remove the chain for cleaning. After spending a couple of years cleaning shimano chains on the bike with chain cleaner tools and the likes as soon as i switched to SRAM chains and their links i wished i'd done it to all my bikes years ago. The links can be a little stiff to remove and join when brand new but when worn in, it's easiest thing in the world to get off.

With the slime tube stuff, i have one as a spare but not used it yet. A friend of mines used it for years along with a new tyre. When it came to him replacing the tyre he noticed he had half a dozen punctures or so that the slime tube had repaired itself that he never knew about. 

I've been slowly getting back into MTBing the last couple of years myself now. Still very much a novice but it's a good buzz