I decided to tinker a little and install a new intake from TT and also remove the clutch delay valve whilst the airbox was off and i had access.

 

//edit post CDV removal - wow - clutch feels much better now when making quick shifts and has a more defined bite point. Wish i had done this mod earlier

 

to remove airbox disconnect the flexipipe, pull out vacuum hose from bottom left corner of airbox then pull the airbox up on the rubber grommets (circled) there is a third one of these underneath. some tugging required!!

 

this gives you a good view of the clutch delay valve (dotted arrow) and also the boomba racing shortshifter i had already fitted before (black arrow)

 

I put some kitchen roll and levered up the 2 clips using a thin screwdriver (make sure you elevate them completely - 2 clicks, but dont pull them off!) Then panic a little as DOT4 brake fluid goes everywhere.

 

this pulls out easily, remove the bleed nut at the top and then you can poke out the yellow valve inside (i couldn't get it out in 1 piece so broke it up)

 

replace the cdv assembly and push down on the clips you levered up earlier with the screwdriver. make sure they go all the way down. Panic a bit more at the amount of fluid that leaked out!

then you can bleed the system using a block of wood or if you have a speedbleeder use it (M8x1.25mm is the size needed). I topped the brake fluid reservoir up with some DOT4 (3 quid from local autoparts). you don't want the reservoir to empty as this entrains air and will result in the system needing rebled again

 

when wood is positioned as so, uncrack the bleed valve slightly and airbubbles should come out. be careful as it splashed into my face. tighten bleed screw again, remove wood, pull up clutch then repeat a couple more times until no more air out

 

So onto the TT bigger intake

Remove the flexi pipe by undoing the jubilee clip and pulling it off the turbo elbow intake. squeeze and pull the hose (white circle) off the assembly - it just pops off

 

Undo the single silver torx screw (black circle) that holds the turbo intake pipe in place. to the right of it push the black tab shaped bit down and away from you (white arrows) it only rotates about 1/8 of a turn. this unlocks the turbo intake and you can pull it sideways to the right to remove it

 

this leaves you with the stock intake completely removed (white arrow)

 

 

top tip - remember to do a trial fitting of the intake hose onto the venturi intake (it can be fiddly)

Fit the TT metal venturi intake piece into the turbo - push in to fully seat it then rotate it to lock it in place. this took a bit of effort

 

I had been worried that the intake pipe (white arrow)  wouldn't fit beside the turbo muffler delete valve (black arrow) that i had already fitted, but there weren't any issues

 

top tip#2 - remember to thread the jubilee clip onto the intake hose BEFORE mating it with the new venturi metal bit of the intake. reconnect the hose on the top (just pushes on) it is a bit of a stretch but not too tight. it took some manoeuvring to position the  wires/black assembly thing at the elbow of the intake pipe (not sure if they could go below the red pipe or not, but this seems to have worked for me)

 

reattach the airbox onto the 3 rubber grommets (i used a little silicone spray on these which made it easier) feed the jubilee clip onto the airbox end of the red intake pipe, mate them together and tighten the jubilee clip

 

remember to re-attach the vacuum pipe to the lower left corner of the airbox (circled) and enjoy!

 

 

Hope this is useful to anyone wanting to upgrade some bits. I am a complete mechanic muppet but still managed it

Edited 23 March, 20179 yr by encephalopathy

Have been meaning to do the cdv for a while now, first guide I've seen with pictures so thank you!

 

What is a cdv and why would you wish to remove it?

 

The Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) is a small restriction that's in the hydraulic line between the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder that releases the clutch.

It's a one way check valve that allows full flow as you're disengaging the clutch, but creates a restriction to the flow as you release it, causing the clutch to re-engage more slowly.

 

Edited 25 March, 20179 yr by the rooster

For what purpose? And does it add any benefit except improved feel?

You get a more linear return. I found it very difficult to adjust to when i got my car. It's like having a speed bump when you release the clutch and you can pull your foot off faster than the pedal returns. I hate it personally.

Sounds like it's there to help protect the dualmass flywheel by lessening the initial load when the clutch engages 

I suppose you take that risk. But I was taught by the BSM to let in the clutch gently anyway.

here is a good explanation of the process and some of the benefits

 

VWROC

 

i also used the code VWROC10 at regal autosports to get 10% off the price of the TT intake hose !  (~20 quid saving)