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Yeti glow plug errors


K100RS

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Have just purchased a Ross-Tech VCDS from ilexa.co.uk and plugged it in having noticed the odd rough running in the morning when the Mrs started it up for work.

Set it up for all faults to be checked out and it came up with this list. New to this game so have not used VCDS systems before so is there anybody out there that can throw some light on the rad out below.

Many thanks.

Log-EJ11 WUV-TMBKC75L6B6060019-155340km-96523mi.txt

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I had the same error for the cylinder 1 glow plug, in my case the glow plug had failed and gone high resistance. After replacing it, the error cleared.

 

I would check the resistance of all four glow plugs, if two are much higher resistance than the other two then replace them.

 

If all four have a similar resistance, you need to check the wiring loom connecting them as it can also fail.

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8 minutes ago, langers2k said:

I had the same error for the cylinder 1 glow plug, in my case the glow plug had failed and gone high resistance. After replacing it, the error cleared.

 

I would check the resistance of all four glow plugs, if two are much higher resistance than the other two then replace them.

 

If all four have a similar resistance, you need to check the wiring loom connecting them as it can also fail.

Can you check the resistance of the glow plugs with VCDS or is it a multimeters job?

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Thanks chaps

 

Will measure them out with my Fluke DVM when the Mrs returns home tomorrow.

Let you know what they read like.

Many errors popping up on the drivers side for window and mirror functions but everything seems to work over the years. Have yet to see the window stop working to date?

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For the door module errors, I would clear them and see if they come back.

 

It's probably also worth checking the wiring in the between the drivers door and car. You should be able to pull the rubber snake out of the way to inspect it. It's certainly not uncommon to have one or more wires fail in that kind of area.

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Thanks langers2K

 

Wandering if the door problem is linked to the drivers side lights going out when the door is fully opened or is it a design feature on the 2011 Yeti early model.

RHS front door opened up more than a foot or so:

                                                                                         Inside red light goes out at the bottom of door.

                                                                                         Orange indicator on wing mirror also goes out if you turn the indicators on.

                                                                                         Reading lights in roof also go out.

 

If the items above are turned on they stay on the other side whatever you do with the door opened? Everything stays on if the LHS front door is closed or opened.

Anybody know if this is a feature or part of the problem with the door faults coming up. Did clear them down yesterday and they have re appeared on VCDS logs.

 

 

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Thanks langers2K

 

Will grab the car off the Mrs this weekend and check out the glow plugs and take off the door rubber boot to have a look at the wiring harness.

Was not sure if it was some silly European regulation set up for the drivers side when the door is opened right up! Everything works until the door is opened around 7 to 8 inches.

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Back again langers2K

 

Well done spot on, wiring in the door harness to the main plug on the door frame.

The wife had the Yeti repaired by an insurance repair company close to Dereham Norfolk after a lovely chappy drove out of a little car park lane straight into her drivers door denting it badly.

After the repair she said sometimes the windows will not go up or down but it was very intermittent and the red light at the bottom going off when the door is fully opened.

Took the boot of the main body of the car and unplugged the harness only to find two cables partially cut and the main thick brown yellow cable cut in two? The repair company had just twisted the two wires together and hidden it with black insulation tape leaving the others just ready for a short to the door frame?

Had decided to use a tight fitting spade terminal to repair the cut wire as there was no excess to make good. Taped carefully the other two then bound the complete harness up with tape. VCDS put back on and all errors have now gone.

 

Glow plugs were measured and two were faulty. Correct again.

Cambelt from engine block as number one.

1 = 0.7 ohm

2 = 0.7 ohm

3 = 1,853 ohms (measured three times)

4 = 168.3 ohms

Checked out with a new Fluke DVM

 

Having not played with diesel engines before I looked up NGK and found they recommend Y1002A2 glow plugs. Is there a recommendation on which ones to use?

Also do you need a special very thin socket spanner or box spanner to unscrew these plugs out. What is the socket size for the glow plugs.

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These were the photos taken off the insurance repair job. Would never go back there but of course the insurance company force you to use their recommended repair agents.

Just about three inches of black insulation tape was used to cover over the broken cable which had just been twisted together by the chap in the repair shop.

Never thought to check on the wire harness once we came back home.

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That is pretty shoddy work by the bodyshop, can you name them as my Octavia might be about to get repaired near Dereham.

 

It's annoying but at least it's was easy enough to fix. Hopefully the crimps will withstand the movement of door.

 

Based on a MY11 Yeti with a CFHA engine, ETKA suggests the following:

NGK 03L 963 319 A >> 03L 963 319 C >> discontinued, use Bosch or Beru instead

Bosch 03L 963 319

Beru 059 963 319 F >> 059 963 319 J >> 059 963 319 M >> 059 963 319 S

 

Wherever I've used >> it's to denote a superseded part. Basically it's been replaced by a new part number so your options are:

Bosch 03L 963 319

Beru 059 963 319 S

 

I've recently replaced all four on my Octavia with Bosch 03L 963 319 for ~£55. I have three 'good' used ones I took out in the garage you're more than welcome to.

 

If you replace them yourself, just remember there is maximum undoing torque to avoid stripping the head. I soaked mine in plus gas for about three days on my normal commute and all four came out without issue.

 

ETKA also advises to keep all four from the same brand.

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Just picked up your reply langers2k

 

Not sure which part of East Anglia you come from but the company the insurance requested we go to was Leeder in North Elmham  Dereham.

I did ask around hoping to use a local garage around Norwich but was told they had a good reputation having driven the Skoda all the way there and picked it up from their establishment, ho ho.

Can you remember the undoing maximum torque figures by the way.

Might as well replace all four together with Bosch plugs, thanks for the generous offer. I hang out five miles east of Norwich on the Bungay road.

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I'm over in Swafham and I refused Leeders as they weren't Skoda approved. They were friendly enough when they assessed the car though.

 

I used 20-25 Nm to undo then 16-18 Nm to tighten. Looking online, 25 lb/ft seems a popular max figure which is ~33-34 Nm. A few days of proper penetrating fluid (not WD-40) and a hot engine should help :)

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Cheers langers2k

 

Have ordered a set of four Bosch plugs as suggested from eBay and await their arrival.

In the meantime will squirt some plus gas down the holes ready for extraction of the glow plugs.

Will check out what narrow long 10mm socket I have in the garage that gets used on my motorbikes.

It will be interesting to see the plug which measured over 1.8K ohms and put 12 volts on it for any heating at all.

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Assuming my calculations are correct, given 12 volts:

- 0.7 ohm plugs are over 200W

- 1.8k ohm plugs will be less than 0.1W

 

Another useful too are long needle nose pliers. Once the plug is completely unscrewed, it can be quite a challenge to get it out of the hole :)

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