OEM running boards

[tjxkeith1]

Looking at OEM running boards on eBay most have a warning about using TFR (traffic film remover) and corrosion. Has anyone any experience of this. 

[Kenny R]

Haven’t seen any warnings on genuine OEM running boards, only ever seen on cheap offerings that require a bit of butchery and weird brackets / mountings to fit whereas OEM fit perfectly to pre existing holes etc.

link to fitting guide showing odd brackets etc of non genuine running boards...

https://images.esellerpro.com/3749/I/111/534/Skoda Kodiaq Side Steps Fitting Guide.pdf

pic of genuine...I know which I would choose...

Edited 15 November, 2020 by Kenny R

[tjxkeith1]

Kenny thanks for the info. Within the link you sent you sent there is a a warning about using TFL. 
now somewhere I have seen an ad for powder coated attachment brackets will have to try and find it again

[silver1011]

The TFR warning could be applicable to any part of the cars exterior, it's simply Skoda being overly cautious knowing that there are varying levels of quality in the TFR's used.

 

If the TFR is excessively acidic or alkaline then if left unrinsed it could tarnish the chrome strip, just like it does the alloy wheel lacquer, chrome window trims and plastic wheel bolt covers.

 

Avoid the £5 roadside hand car washes and you'll be fine using a good quality branded TFR at home.

 

The picture above is my car and the running boards were fitted from new back in 2018. They're unmarked apart from hairline scuffs on the chrome strips where the kids have dragged their shoes over the edge of the boards when getting in and out.

 

Edited 16 November, 2020 by silver1011

[mk_83]

On 15/11/2020 at 20:39, Kenny R said:

Haven’t seen any warnings on genuine OEM running boards, only ever seen on cheap offerings that require a bit of butchery and weird brackets / mountings to fit whereas OEM fit perfectly to pre existing holes etc.

link to fitting guide showing odd brackets etc of non genuine running boards...

https://images.esellerpro.com/3749/I/111/534/Skoda Kodiaq Side Steps Fitting Guide.pdf

pic of genuine...I know which I would choose...

I’m interested in fitting some OEM running boards to my 7 seat Kodiaq SportLine 2.0 petrol DSG 4x4. I’ve just returned from a week away with a roof mounted bike rack, definitely can’t use that without standing on a step (I would prefer proper running boards). 
 

I’ve found OEM parts online for close to £700 (but with Skoda dealer fitting they’re £940)!  http://www.kopacek.com/dk/Skoda/KODIAQ/Kodiaq-side-steps-ORIGINAL-Skoda-Autoas

 

That makes me want to fit them myself and save some cash (I’m pretty handy with cars having completed an engine conversion/transplant among many other upgrades and modifications in the past on non-Skoda vehicles).

 

Have you got any more photos or fitting instructions for the OEM running boards (they would help me understand how easy/difficult a job it would be).

If the pics are of your car, did you fit them, can you share with me how easy/difficult it was and what was involved?

 

Any info welcome. 

[Teir]

Hi @mk_83

 

I have fitted the OEM running boards. It's not a difficult job exactly, but it is an annoying one. It took me about 5 or 6 hours, with help, and my first thought once I'd done it was "I wish I'd paid someone to do that!". In retrospect of course I am happy to have saved the money. 

 

The boards come with a fitting instructions booklet, which @Salad Dodger has really helpfully posted here. 

 

See also the helpful tips from @kensym a little earlier in the same thread, all of which I agree with. 

 

The main points to note are:

• You will need to elevate the car in some way. I had access to a lift, but it could likely be done using a pair of axle stands (someone else who has done this may be able to comment?)
• You need a tool capable of fitting M8 rivet nuts. Something like this.
• The second photo below shows what each of the brackets should look like when assembled, ready to go on the car. Make sure that you put the adjuster bolt in the correct way round, with the hex socket on the outside of the bracket - shown (badly) in the first photo below. 
• You don't need to remove the doors (the instructions tell you to do this). However you may need a combination of riveting tools in order to access the holes that are partially obscured by the door. If you have them, either an electric or pneumatic rivet gun would be helpful. If not, I would recommend having both a hand riveter and a lazy tongue riveter. The third photo below illustrates the difficulty in accessing some of the rivet holes.
• The fourth photo below shows one of the brackets fully in place on the car.
• If you currently have front mud-flaps fitted, you will need to take them off while fitting the running boards. You can put them back on afterwards, but you will need to cut them to fit. See photos and advice from @silver1011 here and here.

I wouldn't advise buying the boards from Kopacek. You may find that they are not willing to ship something so large to the UK any longer, and even if they are you will likely have customs duties to pay on top. As far as I know they also do not include the rubber seals which are needed. You would be better off approaching your local dealer for a price. If they are not willing to help or are too expensive, then note that they are available at a good price online from UK sellers, including Caffyn's (currently £707 plus delivery). They are even cheaper in Ireland, if you are planning a visit over there at any point! (I paid €608 from an Irish dealer a year ago).

 

Part numbers:

Whole package: ZGBBOM042SK 

 

Or the individual parts:

565071691 - Left running board 

565071691A - Right running board  

565071830 - Seals for the running boards

 

Good luck  If you have any other tips to add once you have done this yourself, please come back and add to the info here.

 

Edited 26 June, 2021 by Teir
added additional photo

[mk_83]

Hi @Tier,

 

What a comprehensive reply, thanks! I see what you mean, that’s right on the edge of ‘worth doing oneself’ in my book. By the time I’ve bought the riveting tools (never used to do bodywork myself, I stuck to mechanics) the cost of paying a dealer to fit it nets off at around £100/£150. For 6 hours work, paying someone else is looking more and more appealing. 
 

If I do take the plunge, I’ll post about it. 
 

Thanks again.

[Teir]

Yeah, it sort of depends on whether you are looking to take on a bit of a 'project'! Worth noting that others have said it only took them 4 hours, so I may just be slow. If you have to buy tools it certainly cuts into the savings, but you may find that you can borrow one or two of them - a lot of people would have a hand-riveter, for example. 

 

Whatever you decide, the boards are great and I would fully recommend. 

[mk_83]

I'm still weighing this up, the more I research the simpler it looks. However, I've run a camera along the sill of my 2020 Sportline 2.0 DSG 4x4 and it would appear that only the outer most (front and rear) mounting points are pre-drilled and ready to go. They have rubber covers which presumably once removed reveal a pre-drilled mounting point. However, the mid two points appear to be blanked off with metal. I haven't prodded them or tested further, but take a look at the video for yourself and let me know if this is what you found when you installed yours. And if so, did you have to drill your own hole in those centre two points? https://youtu.be/KS8bN5UHooY  

 

Being lazy efficient I also wonder whether raising the car is entirely necessary, they have quite a high ride height. I can certainly get under it without jacking it up, but perhaps there's insufficient room to operate the tool for fitting the M8 rivet nuts, thoughts?

[Teir]

I had the same issue. But they're not blanked off, they're just sort of painted over. The rubber bung is still in there, and can be poked out. I'll attach before and after photos below (the rivet nut has been put in place in the second photo). It looks a bit rough in the photo - I tidied it up afterwards. It's just a thin layer of material.

 

Edit: Just to clarify, I did not need to drill anything - the pre-drilled hole was in place underneath the painted-over bung, ready to receive the rivet nut, just like the other locations.  

 

4 hours ago, mk_83 said:

but perhaps there's insufficient room to operate the tool for fitting the M8 rivet nuts, thoughts?

 

This is the main bit I would be worried about. If you can manage this without jacking the car up, then you're probably fine. Try and find yourself a comfortable surface to work on though, you'll be under there for a while! 

 

 

Edited 28 June, 2021 by Teir

[mk_83]

No way! Could have sworn it was metal, that’s good to know. A diy attempt is looking more and more likely. 

[Teir]

To be fair I can't remember exactly what the material was, but it was definitely thin and easy to poke through (and clearly designed to be poked through!) 

[mk_83]

In case it's of interest, Alan Day Skoda, New Southgate just quoted me £985 (inc VAT) to supply and fit OEM running boards. 

 

£££!

[Kempenfelt]

Thanks mk, this is something we have discussed having fitted.


 

[Teir]

1 hour ago, mk_83 said:

In case it's of interest, Alan Day Skoda, New Southgate just quoted me £985 (inc VAT) to supply and fit OEM running boards. 

 

£££!

Ah, my local dealer. I've never used them though...

 

Did they give a price for supply only?

[mk_83]

No, but the Nov 2018 brochure (final page) lists them at £688 supply & £940 supply and fit. I guess inflation has pushed that up by around 5% to the £985 quoted. On that basis, supply only would have increased to £720  approx.