The amber power steering warning light is flashing with the left indicator, the power steering amber light and the green cruise control and the green dipped light is flashing when the right indicator is used. All these lights are flashing with the hazard warning lights.

The amber power steering light glows very dim when the ignition switch is on but goes out when engine is started. If the battery is disconnected and when the power steering light comes on when battery is reconnected (normal) then operating the indicators with the ps light on everything is normal,no abnormal flashing of any lights on dash.

The car has 110,000 km very well maintained by main dealer, car failed NCT due fault, any suggestions for this problem. Thank you.

The symptom you describe could be due to low battery volts which in turn could be due to loose or corroded clamp at the battery.

Check battery voltage when resting, after starting and when charging - how old is the battery?

Power steering will reset after driving a short distance which includes turning the wheel.

The battery is fairly new, just over a year old, the earth connections are all sound. There is no charging issue. I replaced the indicator stalk, which has the cruise control switch on it, no fix. I left the car with a Skoda main dealer, they thought it was a Body Control Module or a wiring problem, they wanted nearly 600 euro for BMC replacement, so I got a second hand one from a breaker and fitted it, no fix.

I'm not sure how the BCM could be associated with the the power steering, so I've decided to get a second hand steering control module and fit that, the indicator stalk is connected directly to the SCM so maybe it's the problem.

There is a long shot problem which can cause reduced voltages on some of the feeds from the battery. I have not seen this myself but there are posts on here about the issue. So lets put 2 and 2 together and make a wild guess.

 

Next to the battery there is the Engine Bay Fuse box.  People have found corrosion due to water on the contacts into which fuses are plugged. Also, having taken the printed circuit off, they found corrosion on the back.

 

Any poor contact here due to corrosion will drop the voltage seen by downstream items such as the BCM.

 

Before removing this board you MUST disconnect the battery as a short here is directly across the battery and becomes a fire risk. Accidently shorting the battery supply on this board with a spanner or screwdriver could see you welding it in place.

 

As I say it is a long shot. But the first step is to make a close visual look of the smaller fuses on the board for signs of corrosion or overheating. You don't need to disconnect the battery to use your eyes.

Edited 12 November, 20214 yr by pikpilot
typo

I hung in a used instrument cluster in a beakers yard, same p/n from same car,the owner convinced me to try it even though the main dealer didn't think it was the cluster, and subsequently I thought it might be the SCM. The cluster fixed the problem. I now need to get it coded to the car. Hopefully the used cluster won't introduce other problems. 

Did the cluster trigger the immobiliser before coding?? I'm needing to get a second hand set for my superb 1.6 tdi . But I've been told they need coded before fitting?

You will need to get it coded, not only for the immobiliser but also the 4 digit radio code and perhaps other things too.

The cluster is like a central data store.

Easiest way is have someone read the codes in your old cluster and copy to the new one. In the VCDS section of Briskoda there is a map showing locations' of people with VCDS who are willing to help.

Hi octaviani,

The breaker that I bought the cluster from gave me the name of a friend of his who could code the new cluster to the car, the breaker initially hung in the other cluster with the engine running to see if it fixed my problem, it did, now I could put back in my own cluster until I could get the other cluster coded to the car, he said if I took out my cluster with the ignition off then the car wouldn't start when I refitted my own cluster, makes sense. I got the second hand cluster fitted and coded about a week later, my Bolero radio wouldn't work after I initially took out my original cluster, the guy that coded the cluster to the car needed the S/N of the radio before I arrived, so I pulled out the radio to get the S/N, he found the radio code online.  I'm not sure what type of diagnostic computer that he used, I know it wasn't VCDS or Snap On, he was an ex VAG main dealer trained mechanic. Car is working fine since. Hope this helps.