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Dash Camera Installation…


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Hello,

 

So, like buses working on my rapid seems to come in pairs!

 

This week has seem the purchase of some Savio 17” wheels in black, which needed a good clean, polish, gtecniq c5 wheel armour, swapping some tyres and getting them balanced.

 

I’ve also been thinking of getting a dash camera and rather than spend lots of money, I opted for the co-pilot CPDVR3  Mirror cover camera and I’ve bought a hardwire kit so it’ll work when the car is parked.

 

my question is has anyone fitted one and can anyone advise which fuse to piggyback for constant 12v live.

 

if not I’ll take some photos and pop it up on here.

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For a switched 12v, piggy back off the rear wiper fuse

if you want permanent live (still on after the ignition goes off), piggy back off the fuse for the 12v accessory socket.

Exact fuse locations are listed in the fuse diagram in your manual. 

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6 hours ago, chrisgreen said:

For a switched 12v, piggy back off the rear wiper fuse

if you want permanent live (still on after the ignition goes off), piggy back off the fuse for the 12v accessory socket.

Exact fuse locations are listed in the fuse diagram in your manual. 

Thanks Chris, you are alway a great source of knowledge.

 

Without a multi meter how do I know which ones are permanent live?

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You don’t need a multimeter. We already know that the two fuses I mentioned are 12v feeds. You just need to decide if you want the dash cam to turn on & off with the car ignition (this is the recommended option for a dash cam, in which case use the rear wiper fuse) or if you want the dash cam to stay on 24 hours a day (not recommended given the drain on your battery, in which case use the 12v accessory socket fuse, which also remains on even when the ignition is off and the car is locked).

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1 hour ago, chrisgreen said:

You don’t need a multimeter. We already know that the two fuses I mentioned are 12v feeds. You just need to decide if you want the dash cam to turn on & off with the car ignition (this is the recommended option for a dash cam, in which case use the rear wiper fuse) or if you want the dash cam to stay on 24 hours a day (not recommended given the drain on your battery, in which case use the 12v accessory socket fuse, which also remains on even when the ignition is off and the car is locked).


ah, that makes sense now. Sorry I’d miss read the 12v accessory socket bit. The kit I’m getting has parking recording and a box that monitors the draw. So, I’ll go for the 12v accessory one. Thanks again.

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So, relatively straight forward to install. The kit came with a little orange but of plastic. 
 

I put a couple of zip ties on the cable in the headliner to help keep them up there (read it on the internet that they help).

 

I just need to run the rear view camera now. Same, same but different :)

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For  CCTV option you should get 12V permanent, 12V ACC and ground (somewhere under dash). When CCTV is active you should get menu to set up time and frame rate (1frame/sec, 2 frames/sec)...

Good direction but make sure your car battery will hold it... :)

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2 hours ago, 67igor1 said:

For  CCTV option you should get 12V permanent, 12V ACC and ground (somewhere under dash). When CCTV is active you should get menu to set up time and frame rate (1frame/sec, 2 frames/sec)...

Good direction but make sure your car battery will hold it... :)

I checked with a test probe/light that that fuse was permanent live. Ground to a big nut behind the dash.

 

My current issue is that the handbook had a discrepancy in regards to maximum micro sd size, stating 32 gb but the bigger the better, so I went and bought a 128gb and of course it doesn’t work. Now waiting for Jeff B to deliver a 32gb max endurance one that I’d cancelled after reading the hand book! 
 

indidnt get round to running the rear view camera this afternoon. Gonna wait for a warmer day.

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So the story continues… 

 

my wife went out in the car today and doesn’t like the blue tint to the mirror or the fact it vibrates.

 

the solution comes in the form of a second hand blackvue system that I should get in a few weeks time.

 

I’ll put the first camera down as a dry run and use it for any vehicles we borrow.

 

watch this space.

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40 minutes ago, 67igor1 said:


the one I got was the co-pilot cpdvr3 for £20 plus the p&p, plus the hardwire kit at £10 and £8 memory card.

Edited by JonBRapid
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11 hours ago, 67igor1 said:

I use that because...  size of micro SD and recorded quality

 

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That looks good.
 

I didn’t want to spend a load of money on it as not sure we need one really but now see the benefit. 
 

I guess it’s like cctv at home, you hope you don’t need to use it.

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49 minutes ago, 67igor1 said:

I do like it very much...  First as DVR (front and rear), second as rear view mirror and backup camera. On top of that as CCTV ...

Can you access it remotely?

 

I’ve been more aware of the car when I’ve been parked and heard noises and thought that to access it remotely would be a nice touch. Then I was offered the blackvue which does that :) thinking I might be paranoid!

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On 31/03/2022 at 09:20, chrisgreen said:

You don’t need a multimeter. We already know that the two fuses I mentioned are 12v feeds. You just need to decide if you want the dash cam to turn on & off with the car ignition (this is the recommended option for a dash cam, in which case use the rear wiper fuse) or if you want the dash cam to stay on 24 hours a day (not recommended given the drain on your battery, in which case use the 12v accessory socket fuse, which also remains on even when the ignition is off and the car is locked).

You can say, “I told you so….”

 

I test + for covid and so my wife goes away with the kids and parks the car next to the caravan they’re staying in for a couple of day and then I get a phone call saying the car won’t open!

 

🫣oops… so I guess I’ll be finding the switched fuse tomorrow and putting the battery on charge!

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