I posted before regarding a rattling noise from the engine under load and also the possibility of the clutch being an issue. Now I believe they’re the one and same issue as my mechanic has identified the rattle as “coming from the turbo area but probably not the actual turbo”. There’s really nothing wrong with the clutch at all. 
 

My car is a 2020 1.5 TSI and is a taxi and has done 55k miles. So it’s still 5k miles short of the third year warranty expiration. 
 

The dealer is Henrys Skoda Glasgow and they happily “changed” a noisy fuel pump under warranty last year (it’s still noisy so I’m suspicious that it was actually done). 
 

Worst case scenario if it needs a turbo replaced will I face opposition to getting this done under warranty? The car has been serviced every 7k miles by my local mechanic using the proper oil and filters, spark plugs replaced at 38k and will get an air filter this week. Receipts have been kept obviously. 

If the Master Tech supports a Warranty Claim you stand pretty well in having the Warranty Claim approved. 

 

Your Manufacturers Warranty T& C's covers the Servicing and what is needed, so be genned up on that and have your proof of servicing to the Manufacturers Guidelines and now they say Specification.

Spark Plugs are not Specified at 40,000 miles, they are recommended but many Skoda Approved used cars will not have had the Spark Plugs changed at 40,000 miles. 

 

**If your car has not been at a Main Dealers for servicing are you sure there were no Recall Actions / Service Campaigns which your car missed out on as they are required to be carried out to keep a Warranty Valid. or so they say.**

SKODA_Warranty_Terms_November_2021.pdf

Edited 8 August, 20223 yr by roottoot

PS

If it does need a new Turbo and the warranty is covering it then if they approve just an acctuator if there is just an accuator maybe do not accept that.

 

If you are paying they would likely tell you it is a New Turbo required and they can not just change an accuator.

 

Anyways, it needs diagnosed.   

Edited 8 August, 20223 yr by roottoot

4 hours ago, gm73 said:

will I face opposition to getting this done under warranty

Welcome to one of the many things done by the EU to help us out.

Its called the block exemption and helps consumers out and prevents main agents from forcing you to return to them.

 

https://www.gov.uk/cma-cases/motor-vehicle-block-exemption-regulation

https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/service-repair/right-to-repair-campaign

Edited 8 August, 20223 yr by ApertureS

11 hours ago, roottoot said:

If the Master Tech supports a Warranty Claim you stand pretty well in having the Warranty Claim approved. 

 

Your Manufacturers Warranty T& C's covers the Servicing and what is needed, so be genned up on that and have your proof of servicing to the Manufacturers Guidelines and now they say Specification.

Spark Plugs are not Specified at 40,000 miles, they are recommended but many Skoda Approved used cars will not have had the Spark Plugs changed at 40,000 miles. 

 

**If your car has not been at a Main Dealers for servicing are you sure there were no Recall Actions / Service Campaigns which your car missed out on as they are required to be carried out to keep a Warranty Valid. or so they say.**

SKODA_Warranty_Terms_November_2021.pdf 462.9 kB · 2 downloads

Thanks. I feel I've went over and above with regards to servicing, obviously doing an oil change at the dealers every 7k would not be cost effective so that's why I used a garage. The only thing I've not done is brake fluid because the last Octavia I owned still had the original brake fluid at 200k and a check for viscosity showed it was still perfect. The car has wanted for nothing but it's never really wanted anything tbh. It still drives perfectly, the way it did when I got it at 9k miles so this maybe just be the actuator rattling.

 

I just wanted to know where I may stand with them just getting it checked as tbh I can't afford to chuck £100s at them just to look at it. The service bloke was moaning the last time it was in as he said they spent 4 hours trying to hear the fuel pump noise but I think they were trying to fob me off. 

 

As you say it needs investigating.

Hendrys tech needs to get a grip, they are the Authorised repairer, the car has a warranty, the tech gets their pay, and if their employer is losing money because they can not diagnose a fault then tough titty as they get plenty profit doing Servicing that is money for old rope.

Hendrys are not doing Warranty Work for free as long as the work is Authorised by the Warranty Manager. 

 

.........

No idea why you want to do an Oil change every 7,000 miles (10 weeks or so) even with a Taxi with a 1.5 TSI.

(It would be different if you have a Ring Taxi on the Nurburgring.)

 

You did not have to use 0w 20 FS IV you could have used 0w 30 FS III or 5 w 30 III which are still Long Life oils and changed the oil at 14,000 miles. 

You could even have used VW502 00 so 5w 40 FS and changed it every 9,400 miles. 

 

PS

You test Brake Fluid for H20 content because it is hygroscopic.  So you are changing brake fluid to inhibit corrosion in the brake system and because water heats and turns to steam and the braking is affected. 

 

 

Edited 9 August, 20223 yr by roottoot

On 09/08/2022 at 08:07, roottoot said:

Hendrys tech needs to get a grip, they are the Authorised repairer, the car has a warranty, the tech gets their pay, and if their employer is losing money because they can not diagnose a fault then tough titty as they get plenty profit doing Servicing that is money for old rope.

Hendrys are not doing Warranty Work for free as long as the work is Authorised by the Warranty Manager. 

 

.........

No idea why you want to do an Oil change every 7,000 miles (10 weeks or so) even with a Taxi with a 1.5 TSI.

(It would be different if you have a Ring Taxi on the Nurburgring.)

 

You did not have to use 0w 20 FS IV you could have used 0w 30 FS III or 5 w 30 III which are still Long Life oils and changed the oil at 14,000 miles. 

You could even have used VW502 00 so 5w 40 FS and changed it every 9,400 miles. 

 

PS

You test Brake Fluid for H20 content because it is hygroscopic.  So you are changing brake fluid to inhibit corrosion in the brake system and because water heats and turns to steam and the braking is affected. 

 

 

I changed the oil at 7k because I’m paranoid and hope to avoid any further expensive issues nice it’s out of warranty. Have to say it’s a horrible car to drive. Rubbish in lower gears then all the power arrives in third when you don’t need it. Inconsistent drive and crashy suspension and uncomfortable seats.  I’ll not get another Skoda. 

You need all the power in first and second gears! 😲

 

What do you use it for, pulling out tree stumps or drag racing?

 

The ECU has a torque limitation parameter (can be viewed in VCDS) in the lower gears to protect the transmission and reduce the unpleasant interaction of the electronic traction control systems, unless your vehicle is 4x4 the FWD would struggle to transmit full power in first and second gear on anything but perfect road conditions.

1.5tsi ACT,s do suit a DSG.    Or better still there is in other world regions 1.4. TSI,s without ACT and 8 speed autos.  

21 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You need all the power in first and second gears! 😲

 

What do you use it for, pulling out tree stumps or drag racing?

 

The ECU has a torque limitation parameter (can be viewed in VCDS) in the lower gears to protect the transmission and reduce the unpleasant interaction of the electronic traction control systems, unless your vehicle is 4x4 the FWD would struggle to transmit full power in first and second gear on anything but perfect road conditions.

Hardly. I was hoping for effortless acceleration up to speed not being beaten away from the lights by a Kia Picanto! Sometimes it’s nice and smooth, other times it feels like it’s screaming it’s head off trying to build speed. I’ve got a 25 year old Citroen that drives more consistently. Maybe that’s the problem with modern cars, overcomplicated. 

It is the problem with ACT /COD for city cars.  They were / are about getting WLTP / RDE2 results.  Why VW have had to go mild hybrid with 1.0 and 1.5 TSI,s and some electric motor help for smooth off the line and less fuel use.  Or just the tests getting lower emission figures.  

2 hours ago, gm73 said:

I’ve got a 25 year old Citroen that drives more consistently. Maybe that’s the problem with modern cars, overcomplicated. 

No "more" about it, I have expected every car since the 90's to drive consistently and none have failed in that measure, kinda takes the excitement out of motoring and I no longer get the pleasure of tuning an engine to run like a sewing machine but its a small price to pay for reliability.

 

One more reason, not that I need any more, for me to never buy anything newer than what I have and I would much prefer that to have been EU4 or EU3 but to have a Yeti meant accepting more complication, it still drives consistently though.

29 minutes ago, J.R. said:

No "more" about it, I have expected every car since the 90's to drive consistently and none have failed in that measure, kinda takes the excitement out of motoring and I no longer get the pleasure of tuning an engine to run like a sewing machine but its a small price to pay for reliability.

 

One more reason, not that I need any more, for me to never buy anything newer than what I have and I would much prefer that to have been EU4 or EU3 but to have a Yeti meant accepting more complication, it still drives consistently though.

The several 1.9 PDs I drove as taxis previous to this one were outstanding cars, noisy yes but torquey and predictable. They didn’t annoy me in the way this one does, even when on mammoth miles. 

Yes I would much prefer to have the previous PD engine or even the completely simple ALH I think it was from my MK1 Octavia in the Yeti.

 

The CR engine is very smooth and silent by comparison to the PD but no better really than the ALH.

 

I recall the alternator failing on the journey to Dover, I took the chance and continued on to the ferry and then on to my home in France and was staggered to see that the battery voltage had hardly dropped, I subsequently drove it while waiting for a brush pack to be delivered on 300 mile journeys because I had calculated from the volt drops that it was good for 500 miles.

 

The only battery power consumed when driving was the ECU and a couple of sensors plus the fly by wire throttle, totally mechanical fuel injection yet smooth and silent.

 

Plus the dashboard did not become fault code city if the battery voltage dipped for a micro-second like the later vehicles.