2011 superb 2.0tdi, 4x4 DSG.

Well yes, tomorrow I'll start the process of changing these parts. Also dsg oil/filter service, front diff service and general inspection service when things are disassembled.

I will try to document as best I can, but I know for a fact that when I am in the "zone" , pictures are not in the front of my head...

My scheduled work order is:

Empty dsg case and engine oil.

FL+FR wheel off

Front axles off

Front subframe down

Disconnect pipes to/from webasto heater

DPF down

Next start disassemble things in order to get the transmission case removed from the gearbox housing.

Then removal of dsg gearbox. 

Behold, there I will have a clear and present view of the infamous EGR cooler 😆 Replace.

Well, flywheel off and finally use tool T10134 to assemble new crank seal. But first, remember to set engine at TDC by use of tool T10050.

 

Wish me luck. (Have done a couple of flywheels, timingbelts and other **** before)

 

Will document in here with pics and what special tools or helpful gadgets I use.

Worth to mention, I do this in my own garage (have own scissorlift).

Edited 3 September, 20241 yr by rbhelle

Parts to be replaced and some special tools required.

To replace the dual mass flywheel on superb 2.0tdi 4x4 engine code CFFB and 6spd DSG box (wetclutch), there are some precautions I need to consider. First, get the right tools for the job. You never know what you get in terms of availability to certain bolts and nuts. Next is to consider, are they easy to unscrew?

So, to me I have different tools to these jobs. Mostly I use Milwaukee battery tools, but also a lot of hand tools, since it is easy to brake bolts and nuts with too much power.

For rusted nuts I have a induction heater and that helps a lot. When everything else is a failure, a well loved grinder is the way to go. Both a big one or a small Dremel like one.

 

I started with loosening the axle bolts on both sides before raising the vehicle. Used 24mm 12-point socket and biggest Milwaukee M18 Impact wrench (1898NM) to get them loose.

1. Take off wheels using 17mm socket and undo all plastic under engine and wheel housing with Torx25 and torx 30
2. Take out both axles using a long XZN 10 (or no 8). I stick a screwdriver into the vented brake disc plate to stop rotating. This should be easy. I actuallu disassembled the right brake caliper, disc and disck protection back plate to get better access to the drive axle bolts. In GB that would be on the driver side, but in Norway thas is the passenger side. 
3. Next is to disassemble the lower vertical stabilizer nut to free the joint from the knuckle I think it was a 16mm pipe and also disassemble end link on steering rod from the knuckle (21 mm pipe I guess). Use a press, not a hammer imho.
4. Last, unscrew 3 nuts, 16mm pipe, holding the lower control arm from the knuckle.
5. Dont forget the height adjustment device  (green one) on the left side of the vehicle bolted to the inner side of the lower control arm. Use 10mm socket.
6. Now, disconnect the 10mm nut inside on the steering rack behind the gas pedal in you car. Lift up and disconnect. Do not touch the steering wheel after this!
7. Remove the 3 dogbone bolts, one is 18mm, the 2 front are 16mm. Remove dogbone.
8. Remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the exhaust to the subframe
9. Now the subframe is held by total of 3 bolts to your car on each side. One is located thorugh a hole in your subframe and the other 2 in the back of your subframe. You will find them bolted directly to your car chassis. There are other bolts as well, but they are not connected to your car chassis, but to the steering rack etc. I use subframe guiding pins to avoid needing a 4-wheel adjustment after the subframe is taken down. See picture. 
10. Take out bolt by bolt replacing each one with a guiding pin. Also set a gearbox jack or MC jack under subframe to support it. Now when all 6 bolts are removed, the subframe will come down and out.
11. Remember to disconnect cables to the subframe assembly, especially the oil level sensor will easily break if you forget to disconnect. Just lower the subframe enought in order to use your hands to unscrew the 3 torx 30 bolts on the heat shield over the subframe electronics. And use a small pick to disconnect the cables. When all are loosened, lower subframe.

There, subframe down and ready to continue next step.

 

Here is a picture of the guiding pins in use.

Her you see the bolts on the heat shield on the subframe assembly that needs to be removed in order to access the connectors. And finally the subframe down. Very easy access to replace bushings, stabilizer and steering rack when it is out.

To replace bushings in-situ is doable, but i prefer to have working space and since noone is paying me for doing it, why not just remove the subframe and have space :-)

The drive axle flange..Do not try to remove gearbox on a 4x4 without removing the axle flange first. That is a nogo and save yourself of a ton of work, and just remove them during the subframe removal process.

I use a special tool, it is just a very long hex 5. And to get the drive axle flange out you will need a press or use what I used, a slidehammer. You will figure out what is best, but VAG do have a special press tool for this, but a slide hammer is just as good.

I did the job somewhat differently and I think from reading your description it was an easier procedure but not having done it each way I cant be sure.

 

I left the steering rack hanging in situ.

 

I did not remove both driveshafts, its hard to recall after a couple of years but I think removing just the NS (left) one gave enough clearance to drop the transmission.

 

I left the drive flange in situ, it did not cause me any problems at all and I did not have the complication of removing it, I do recall that there was one fastener on a support bracket in that area which was difficult to access but it did not give any real trouble. Only reason I can see for removing the flange and by consequence the one opposite (held by the same through bolt I believe) is to replace the oil seals which are a failure point.

 

I wish I had known back then about the subframe centralising pins or the importance of using them, I used spray paint to mark the position as best I could but the vehicle was crabbing badly afterwards, I DIY'ed a laser pointer set up to align the front and rear axles to the body centre line, I could not pull the front crossmember far enough to correct the error and had to ratchet strap it from the rear axle against the bolts and then tighten them to death. I could not get enough mechanical advantage to release the rusted rear subframe bolts to move it the tad it needed from my laying on my back position and did not have my Bosch 1/2" impact wrench then.

 

I knew what the pins did when I learned of their existence but from seeing them could not work out how, your photo answers that question so thanks for that!

 

Good to see someone else tackling these that scare mots people into the greedy hands of the garages and their exaggerated labour hours, how long did the job take you? Did you find the weight a problem and how did you mitigate it?

Edited 5 September, 20241 yr by J.R.

Mine was a manual gearbox, was yours being a DSG the reason for removing the drive flange? You did not explain the actual reason for doing so only that not doing it was a no-no and it would cause lots of trouble.

 

I really like your scissor lift, it looks portable, is it? Do you find it stable? any drawbacks that you have found?

 

It might be the solution for my new workshop not having enough height, I did not want to have a 2 post lift outside in all weathers.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Mine was a manual gearbox, was yours being a DSG the reason for removing the drive flange? You did not explain the actual reason for doing so only that not doing it was a no-no and it would cause lots of trouble.

 

I really like your scissor lift, it looks portable, is it? Do you find it stable? any drawbacks that you have found?

 

It might be the solution for my new workshop not having enough height, I did not want to have a 2 post lift outside in all weathers.

Since mine is a 4x4, there is no other option than to take out the right drive axle flange. It is not possible to reach any of the bolts for the support bracket on the transfer box bolted to the engine. When the right side flange is out, it gives you more room to manouvre the gearbox out, especially if you dont take down the subframe (this is on typical 2wd with manual box). Actually I dont think it is physical possible to take down the dsg 4x4 gearbox without removing the subframe....but maybe someone has managed it with a lot of swearing and hassle...🙂

I have not yet taken down the gearbox, so I guess I have left maybe 1-1,5 hours of labour to get it out. Remaining job for me now is:

* Take out starter

* Unscrew gearbox cables and some connectors.

* Take out the radiator fan assembly (give me more leverage when I disassemble the propshaft from the transmission box)

* Support engine with engine beam

* Take out engine supports and finally the bolts that connects the gearbox to the engine.

 

I reckon to use at least 12hours all in all. But then also Egr cooler done and gearbox seal on crankshaft side done.

 

The gearbox itself weighs 135kg, so thats why I have emptied all dsg oil and all transferbox oil (front diff oil) to save some weight. Maybe I will split the transfer box from the gearbix as well, just to make the dsg gearbox more suitable to handle. The dsg 6spd dq250 weighs 109kg empty. A manual 6spd gearbox weighs only 76kg. So that is a significant difference when it comes to handling.

 

Sxissor lift weighs approx 650kg and since it has hydraulic unit with 15ltr of oil, I would that that it is moveable within a limited amount of space. But yeah, in my garage I can move it around from one place to another on flat level concrete. It is shipped with tools to move around.

So yeah, sxissor lift not portable, but deployable to a garage and then it is stuck within that garage floor. Moveable from one place in garage to another, but that is about it. So, yeah....drawback 😆 I have 3 cars, and moved it from one part of the garage to another 2 years ago.

If I relocate in the future, I feel sorry for the guys/girls with the task to help me 😆

But on the other hand, I park my car over it, no problem using the mounted/moveable driving ramps

 

https://www.garageequipmentonline.com/products/scissor-lifts/geo-3-tonne-mid-rise-car-scissor-lift

 

Mine is of this model type

3 tons capacity/3000kg

It was indeed the support bracket for the transfer box or angle drive box as its also known, I think I left it attached to the transmission and removed the bolt or bolts to the engine block, it was one of those which was hard to access but I definitely did it without removing the driveshaft output flange of that I am certain.

 

The cross member had to be removed, there is no way of removing the manual 4x4 gearbox with it in place.

 

I didn't need to remove the engine fan to drop down the rear propshaft, after the engine is supported by the cradle and the mounts are removed there is plenty of movement, again the DSG might be different.

 

Is there really 16kg of transmission fluid in the DSG? I think my gearbox, differential and transfer box weighed 78kg but was managable because I lowered it on ratcchet straps from the engine support beam.

 

If I have a rear main bearing seal or driveshaft output flange seal leak in the future I will regret not doing them at the time.

 

I don't recall seeing a clutch centralising tool on your list, instead of using the mandrel set I made as a first year apprentice (it was in the UK with my mechanics tools and I was in France) I bought one of the plastic centralising tools which clamps the driven plate to the clutch cover before fitting both as an aligned assembly to the flywheel, they are cheap and very good, my old set is now just for reminiscing!

 

Writing the above made me realise I did the job without my main toolkit and pretty much with the tools that I carry in the vehicle, my pal brought along a 3/4 drive breaker bar and some sockets for the driveshaft retaining bolt.

Doing this repair I estimate to save 3500-3700 GBP everything included (NOK converted to GBP) yes, workshop jobs are expensive in Norway....

EGR cooler, dual mass flywheel, crank shaft seal, poly v-belt, dsg oil service, front diff oil service and a thorough inspection.

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

It was indeed the support bracket for the transfer box or angle drive box as its also known, I think I left it attached to the transmission and removed the bolt or bolts to the engine block, it was one of those which was hard to access but I definitely did it without removing the driveshaft output flange of that I am certain.

 

The cross member had to be removed, there is no way of removing the manual 4x4 gearbox with it in place.

 

I didn't need to remove the engine fan to drop down the rear propshaft, after the engine is supported by the cradle and the mounts are removed there is plenty of movement, again the DSG might be different.

 

Is there really 16kg of transmission fluid in the DSG? I think my gearbox, differential and transfer box weighed 78kg but was managable because I lowered it on ratcchet straps from the engine support beam.

 

If I have a rear main bearing seal or driveshaft output flange seal leak in the future I will regret not doing them at the time.

 

I don't recall seeing a clutch centralising tool on your list, instead of using the mandrel set I made as a first year apprentice (it was in the UK with my mechanics tools and I was in France) I bought one of the plastic centralising tools which clamps the driven plate to the clutch cover before fitting both as an aligned assembly to the flywheel, they are cheap and very good, my old set is now just for reminiscing!

 

Writing the above made me realise I did the job without my main toolkit and pretty much with the tools that I carry in the vehicle, my pal brought along a 3/4 drive breaker bar and some sockets for the driveshaft retaining bolt.

Oh, in dsg there is no clutch outside to replace, just the flywheel. The clutch is a wetclutch inside the gearbox housing. And you are right, no need to remove the right axle flange to do a flywheel change, but I will split the transfer box from the gearbox and according to elsawin I need to take out the right axle drive flange...But you have done it woithout, so that job could have spared me some time then...well will remember to next time :-)

 

According to VW specs, the DQ250 6 spd dsg weighs 109kg dry + 15kg transfercase. 7ltr dsg oil and approx 1 ltr diffoil. Approx 133kg in total. My MC jack that I use as a gearbox jack has a max limit of 135kg capacity. So that is why i empty fluids and split the transfercase. Trying to avoid accidents :-)

When doing manual clutch I do use this centralizing tool.

13 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

 

Writing the above made me realise I did the job without my main toolkit and pretty much with the tools that I carry in the vehicle, my pal brought along a 3/4 drive breaker bar and some sockets for the driveshaft retaining bolt.

That is what I will call a job superbly done mate! It is a big difference doing this with only tools one have in car compared to a well specced workshop with lifter! Kudos to you! but, you are a mechanic by profession?

I was a part time mechanic from 15 through to late 20's, evenings and weekends alongside my Engineering apprenticeship, I was homeless at 16 so its how I supported myself through college till 24 and purchased my first properties.

 

Because for 17 years I was living in a different country to where my workshop was my breakdown toolkit was and still is fairly comprehensive and decent tools, some like the Bahco socket and spanner set as good as those in the estranged mechanics toolbox, it is nice now to have the whole toolkit to hand even if I'm squeezed into a small garage until I build the workshop extension.

 

Daft me for speaking of the clutch when I knew yours was a DSG, a senior moment!

 

That is a similar or maybe the same centralising tool as I bought, even that is 800km away from me one day I will have everything in one place, its down to 2 places now but still one too many.

Dual mass flywheel done! Omg, what a ****ty job! Doing this on a dsg 6spd dq250 on a 4x4 drive car is not for the fainthearted I must say. Especially since the dsg box with the angle box is quite heavy. It is not necessary to split the angle box from the gearbox. They come down as a whole. Just remember to assemble it with the anglebox adapter in place before you connect gearbox back. If you forget....good luck (no need to remove the adapter anyway). In total I spent approx 13-14 hours effective. The egr cooler takes time, dsg oilservice takes time, coolant takes time and so on. It just add up to the total. Also, preparing tools finding them etc takes time 😄 So, next time I do this, I will estimate a weekends work aka no other plans for the weekend just to be sure. Some nuts will need cutting, som bolts need cutting etc. Well, please ask questions if someone need help. I have actually done it and now how labour intensive it is.

Some more pic