rum4mo

Just general comments really, I fussed about this when I had my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and at that time, maybe round about 2005, the "AC bombs" seemed to have a long tube and that needed feeding into the air plenum box - but I didn't actually complete that task! By the time that I got round to re-visiting that task with later cars, all the "AC bombs" had done away with the long tube, and the plan was now to just start up the car with all windows closed, turn on the AC on recirc, place the bomb on the floor in the rear of the car, and set it off, close doors and leave the car for a certain length of time, then open the door, switch off the engine and remove the now empty bomb container - job complete. I've used that method but removed the pollen filer first then closed the pollen filter cover, and fitted a new Frecious pollen filter after running that AC bomb. Edit:- sorry that I didn't answer your question exactly, but in all these cars the AC evaporator is inside the cabin heater box, along with and beside, the heater matrix. So, that is a closed mainly plastic box and getting into that area in a way that allows full access to the evaporator - will be a very big job, so all you can try is to use one or two of these "AC bombs" and that should kill the bugs and most of the smell.

Like here - Crank case breather valve part fallen into crank case 1.2 TSI engine - Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014) - BRISKODA

You'll possibly find traces of oil where it "escaped" from - on the engine, poor design, ends up breaking off it seems.

Mind you, it would have been more helpful if I had written “yank the coils up” and not “yank the plugs out”!

I’d reckon that none of these listing bothered to be updated when 1.0TSI became popular. I spent good money on a Laser Tools version, and that style is the most expensive even today - it is the version that is just an aluminium alloy grab bar with finger shaped cut outs and an expanding shaft! I’d just stick with what is cheapest and looks better than that one!

That was not the point that I was swerving around! Any certified place will initially recover and vac out any AC system that they deal with, but after passing this GO/NO GO vac holding test, they can still be reasonable leaks, so no laws are being broken when they recharge - and off you go only to end up having this same issue 2 or 3 months down the line. It is just the way it is. I used to get frowned on from above when I always demanded leak fixing on big systems, but doing that meant they remained in use (fridge gas wise) for a long time. And that was even when we complied with F-Gas rules absolutely, no dodgy business allowed!

Aye, you'd need to be very creative with an exhaust bandage to sort that out! It is probably where my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI exhaust will fail as well, that needs looking at BEFORE it gets handed in for an MOT next month. Edit:- my first expensive rear box was for my 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 4X4, it cost well over £100 back in maybe 1998 - I didn't mind that as it was a genuine part and it was for MY car, though I was still used to the "normal at that time" round about £75 for a complete exhaust!

Maybe cheaper to use somewhere like ATS etc for a quick recharge. That should get you through this hot period and if it loses that gas again quickly, ie by next summer, then either "repeat" or get a proper car AC place to locate and resolve the leak.

A tool that is the same as T10530 will help you yank the plugs out, I played safe (as usual) and bought a tool before I first removed the plugs from a TSI engine. As said, the access area and "available bulk" of the top of the coil does seem to make that sort of tool not really essential, but I bought one and always use it when changing plugs on these engines. One other thing, it is advisable to apply some dielectric grease - in a ring, around the bottom end of the coil contact thing, the plan here is to stop the rubber of that coil contact bonding itself to the ceramic of the spark plug - when that happens, the coil contact extension could part company from the coil - which is not too big a deal, but getting the "stuck on" coil contact extension off the spark plug will be needed before you can get a spark plug socket on the spark plug. I believe applying compressed air down into/through that coil contact extension can be used to break the bond. Though using a dielectric grease should stop it happening - some whitish grease will have been applied when initially assembling these engines.

Looks like that car has already had its rear box replaced - as you can see the join in the pipe further up. It looks so easy to move that rear box that I'd think that the pipe "going into it" or the rear of that rear box has rotted out. As above - time to visit an exhaust place.

When you take this car into a workshop that understands Auto AC systems, I'd think that they would fit their test manifold-gauges to this system and be in a position to start to work out what is happening - or not happening. All VW Group cars tend to have a potentially faulty AC pressure sensor at some time or the other, either they end up leaking or just otherwise "not good".

This issue has affected any/all versions of the EA211 family of engines since they were launched, but not very frequently - so VW Group, at least in Europe market territory, have walked away from this issue along with the "fuel rail bolt head snapping" issue. Everyone who is able to do so and has any of the engines from this family of engines, should be checking the camshaft bolts at service time, if only to avoid suffering from resulting problems from if/when these bolts slacken off. There will be signs of engine oil leaking out of that variable timing unit if the bolts are slackening off - there should never be any oil in that timing belt area of the engine if all is well.

Maybe one or some of the new bulbs are not the exact/correct power/wattage. One other thing, if you had bought this car used, maybe, just maybe, previous owner had swopped some filament bulbs for LED versions, and made changes in the car's BCM coding so that the "faulty light" warning then did not come on, and now that the rear clusters have been replaced, the bulbs currently fitted will now be back to being filament bulbs. You'd need to get someone to check the coding for the lights to work that one out.

Oh well, you've installed it, it can see the ABS controller - but more to do!

I'd get over that issue by placing the axle stands under the sill strong points and trolley jack under these inboard points. Both with suitable adaptors or protection.