rum4mo

ECP prices for parts, I've found that at least for some parts, you should check the Halfords price, I don't have anything other than the free "motoring" membership, and many times I've found Halfords to be much cheaper than ECP - which is where Halfords use to supply their ordered car parts. Maybe not in this case though, but always worth checking before placing an order. Edit:- not many places tend to match or beat PIM for genuine OEM parts - plus very fast despatch/delivery.

I've just remembered that the "safety data ref" on the labelling of both these products are different, so must be a significant "chemical makeup" between them.

I've checked the Skoda parts listing that I use/trust and, for a 2020MY Octavia, if the car is 5E - L - 000 001 > then VAQ fluid is specified as being G 060 175 A2 If the car is NX - L - 000 001 > then VAQ fluid is specified as being G 065 175 A2. I'm not a Skoda Octavia owner so the model designation doesn't mean much to me - but it will do to you.

The two Haldex fluids that I have ended up with, are VW Group G 060 175 A2 and VW Group G 65 175 A2. I was buying fluid online for a 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra VAQ, SEAT listed G 60 175 A2 - but my seller sent out G 65 175 A2, now I think that he assumed that the "G 65" version superceeded the earlier "G 60" version as it turned out that VW quote the "G 65" version for similar aged VW Golf when it has a VAQ. In the end I got a refund and bought the "correct for that car" version. Checking on many sites I found nothing to confirm that, but, I discovered that the Febi offering does claim to meet with both these VW Group Haldex fluids - so how important that is I can't say, for my money, I'd prefer to buy the version that is listed for "that" model of car.

Just to clarify, Haldex is a Borg Warner product, VAQ is a "clutch for a shaft" using Haldex bits. The VAG branded fluid seems to vary from VW Group to marque, though some of the aftermarket brands use a common fluid - but there again, VW Group don't "make" these fluids. I deferred to using what, in my case, SEAT quoted in their parts listing. It could be that these VAQ parts manufacture has been licensed out to 2 different suppliers covering different VW Group brands, and they use acceptable but different materials or processes - and so VW Group quotes 2 different fluids for different marques.

My tip is to highlight all the mounting clips positions and take a picture of it - for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 5 door, I stuck small bits of masking tape to the outer surface to highlight where they all are - and took a photo - for making refitting it easier, and removing the next time less troublesome! I ended up with a metal clip escaping and "wandering" around the rear hatch door frame - that was maybe 6 years ago, every summer I consider taking that panel off to resolve that annoying noise!

One thing that you should add in by edit'ng, is, the current car "mileage" as that could help. M25 - what more can you say, horrible place to need to be both for vehicles and people in them! This might be the start of a failure of the oil separator efficiency and it is now, or sometimes, letting too much oil enter the inlet ducting. One thing that might assist you is, check the inside of the exhaust tail pipe, if you rub the inside of it with your finger, you should only get a slight mark of "soot" on your finger. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT is now at 60,000miles run from new, and initially when I ended up shining an inspection light up into the exhaust (accidentally), I was amazed that it looked "shiny" - I had considered that at that age and mileage, the inside of the end of the tail pipe would be coated in black "stuff" and that only cars with GPF or DPF end up with clean looking exhausts.

Yes placing a demand on the steering system will also force the engine to restart. For many many years now, I've bought and fitted a plug in 12V DC voltmeter - Chinese made bought via ebay, having one of them does let you see what is going on wrt the charging voltage, okay these cheap - roughly £5 voltmeters will not be extremely accurate - but in my experience, they are good enough to let you work out things like why the auto stop/start is or is not operational. The battery life of the original EFB battery depends a lot on how the car has been used over its lifetime, for reference (maybe) my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI never had any issues with its original battery, but I had fallen into the trap of "everyone says that these EFB batteries fail quite quickly" so I bought a new "next size up" Bosch AGM battery really to be ready to swop when the original battery failed at an inconvenient time during the winter. Well that just did not happen, so after storing it and "topping it up" every few months, for a "few" years, I ended up replacing the original Exide EFB with this "one size up" AGM when the car was 10 years old. My older daughter has a May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, again it has an Exide EFB and when I last tested it with my CTEK battery tester, it still looks very very healthy - which is okay, I'd doubt if she ever disables auto Stop/Start and only connected it to a CTEK charger during Covid lock down period. My younger daughter has a May 2019 SEAT Arona "bells and whistles" version - they badly under use that car and it bit them in as much as they needed to call the AA out to fit a replacement EFB battery after the original Exide EFB became unuseable - that was maybe 3 winters ago.

Same thoughts as above, I’m guessing that you mean if you press the clutch pedal down while stationary and the engine has auto stopped. The suggested gear playing up is wrong.

I noticed this being mentioned as now being part of the MOT checks in my usual car mag a few months ago, so checked wife’s 2015 Polo before handing it in - still acceptable so I might replace it soon.

Lucky you, when I removed the bearings from my 2011 Audi S4, I started with air hammering the 4 screws, then clamped the bearing pack with a suitable big 10.9 grade bolt, washers and nut to keep everything together, then used a hub press plate - that worked nicely! Quite a bit of the aluminium upright in that area was badly corroded and some came out with/on the bearing assembly!

I think that the ABS sensor ring will get "stuck" to the inner face of the wheel bearing by some means during the bearing's production - the 2 that I removed were certainly still part of the bearing pack, though after you're finding, I seem to have missed a trick by not seeing just how much effort it would have taken to prise them out - they went to the tip a month ago eventually. You are correct, the securing ball screws do just that, ie keep it in place - until corrosion takes over and seizes them in place. How exactly did you manage to get it out of the upright?

Yes, ticking time bombs, they will consume the wheel sensors though while breaking up. The wheel sensor ring is a series of small magnets, so the sensor reads them as pulses as it is a Hall Effect sensor. Edit:- I blamed the failure of the RHS front one on my 2011 Audi S4 on the fact that the bearing was not "handing out" any oil/grease to that area so rusting was to blame, in your case it looks like it is a crap bearing manufacture that is to blame as there is very little sign of serious corrosion - and so that maybe bonded on, series of potted magnets, has started to de-bond from the inner face of the bearing and end up lifting up into the path of the stationary ABS sensor "arm". I'm surprised that a car of this size has just the smaller version of wheel bearing, ie the 3 screw fixing version - maybe that's "progress".

In the past, what tended to annoy me most about dealing with Kwikfit was, I'd enquire about supplying and fitting brand X model Y - and they'd come back with what they had considered a cheaper/cheapest suitable alternative - but that was not the answer to my question! I like to pay as little as I can for exactly what I'm wanting - not too much for crap - there is a difference.

The thing can be, if they spot any marking on the inner surface of the tyres - like that that will be caused when a car has been moved with a flat tyre, then nowadays typically they will declare the tyre to be unrepairable. Kwikfit tyre pricing, at least in the past, Kwikfit can offer 2 prices, one for booking online and another for turning up and asking - you can easily work out which one will be lower without putting it to the test. Last time I had a slow puncture, I made sure that I stuck a trolley jack under that side/end of the car to avoid it even resting on a deflated tyre. My older daughter seemed to get lucky when she drove her car round to her tyre place last year with a very soft/flat tyre, I warned her not to plan to try that trick again as it could get expensive, it sounds like it happened again for her last week - I've not heard what the outcome was yet!