Hello

 

I have a 2.0L 2016 Diesel Yeti which has recently developed a problem with the read driver side door.

 

When I unlock the car with the key-fob, all the other doors unlock except the read driver side door. I will manually open using the handle and if I don't lock the car again with the key-fob, it will continue to open.

 

This seems to be a permanent state now. About twice, the same door won't lock on the key-fob, but this is unusual.

 

Any ideas about what is the cause, and just as importantly, what can I do to solve it.

 

Thanks

 

John

 

Hi, welcome to the forum. As you've not had replies from any of the more knowledgeable members so far I'll try and help. Problems with doors locking and unlocking often get traced to a break in the wiring loom where they pass through the rubber thingy. The advice has been to pull this back and take a look to see if there is an obvious broken wire. If you can establish this is the problem although a new loom is the recommended fix it comes at a price and people have reported successfully bypassing the break with a new piece of wire. If you search the forum you will find quite a few threads about this issue and in some cases detailing successful repairs. If like me you have neither the skills or patience for car repairs a good indepenedent garage should have seen the problem before, be able to properly diagnose it and do an affordable fix.

Hi John

 

We had the same thing, on our '16 Yeti. I ran an obd check and got 'rear door lock implausible signal' and 'rear door lock leak to earth'

 

Ours would make clunks if you tried to get it to lock, its only locked once or twice in the last month (lots of parking it close to walls / lampposts / pillars has been necessary) and so my 1st port of call was the lock / latch unit.

 

I ordered a replacement from a breaker and set about removing the door card, some pulling, some torx screws / bolts (You have to use a surprising amount of force in places, there's a vid on YT which I thought was excessively violent. Turns out it isn't)

 

Once the card was off disconnect the tweeter cable, and I opened / cut the foam panel by the lock, removed the cable and the torx screw by it, then it was a case of removing the 2 triple square headed set screws from the lock itself, (check you've a tool whick fits these before you start, a TORX won't cut it) removing the mechanical cable connections and then swapping the unit over. You can test the new unit by connecting it to power, closing the latch with a screwdriver and locking / unlocking on the remote.

 

Refitting, as the Haynes manual says, is there reverse of removal, take photos if you're nervous.