Alasdair1

Think the yeti uses electromechanic steering so no fluid. Could be a dodgy wheel sensor, steering angle sensor or as simple as low battery. Did the ESP come on as well? best option is to get it scanned with vcds to see if there are any stored codes. Alasdair

Got GT radial FE2 on mine and excellent in dry and wet. Seem to be lasting well too. When I got them if ordered online through local tyre service got discount £15 off for two and £40 for four. From memory they were around £85 each. Sons got GT all season and again excellent tyre. Alasdair

Randomly my octavia used to crunch from 1st to 2nd. I put it down to me being a bit quick with changes but eventually pedal went to floor and master was leaking. As said keep an eye on fluid level in case its leaking somewhere. Alasdair

If fluid was low and disenaging clutch and re engaging helps with gear changes it might be a leaking master/slave cylinder or the seals on either are going and allowing fluid to pass them when engaging clutch so clutch isnt engaging fully. Monitor fluid level and check at base of Gearbox/engine join for signs of fluid. The master on my octavia failed but the fluid ended up on undertray. It could also be the gear linkages need lubricated as you said and also might be worth resetting cables. As its had a fluid change and no improvement I assume theres no air in clutch system. Meant to ask did the clutch pedal come back up on its own or did it need lifted with toes. Alasdair

Hopefully its cured problem. Did read they need coding and 140 euro doesnt seem too bad considering garage prices these days. Glad you got it fixed Alasdair

Should be behind a panel at end of dash drivers side between door and dash. Access when door is opened. There is a panel that clips in place. Careful removing so not to damage spring clips. https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2012#anchorfusebox3 The above link I think is your car. Fuse 35 Alasdair

When the alarm backup battery fails it can leak and cause damage to circuit boards which can trigger alarm randomly. On a temp measure to silence it you could remove fuse for backup battery. It would stop the siren eventually once it goes flat. Indicators will probably still flash but at least it wont annoy neighbours. From memory its fuse 35 either 5amp or 20amp

It may be the alarm siren backup battery thats failing/failed or also check the voltage of the car battery. My old donor cars go off when the battery gets a bit low. Try hoovering the sensor in roof. Think its near the interior lights. Sometimes a build up of dust or in my case a small spider was setting it off. Think the siren is rh front wheel arch under plastic cover. Alasdair

Found similar in cluch kits Bought an LUK kit and it had a valeo clutch disc. I would have thought that as INA are a premium bearing manufacturer they would use their own unless they also now make them for Gates and you got one branded for Gates . Reckon a lot of companies supply each other with parts and are rebranded to suit Alasdair

It depends on if they are made to oe standard or not and what factory they came from. Have had a few chinese parts over the years and some were excellent copies while others very poor. Problem is telling which is good or not as they generally look ok. Cylinder head for old toyota lucida which was excellent and a fraction of cost of toyota. Replaced a honda GX200 engine with a Loncin and they are identical. Even honda parts fit and have had no trouble. Got chinese carb for chainsaw and wouldnt run due to one of the fuel ways not been drilled out. Reckon with a dif I would be looking at second hand or at least a reputable supplier that you have some come back if it fails.

Had a quick look on wikipedia and if its a MK2 caddy it had a choice of four diesel 1.9 two N/A and two Tdi. I pulled this from AI 1. The 1.9 SDI Engine (Engine Codes: AEY, AYQ) If you have the electronic direct-injection model, your truck uses a Bosch VE VP37 electronic distributor pump. [1, 2] How it works: This pump relies on an Engine Control Unit (ECU) to electronically manage fuel delivery, timing, and throttle response. Common Part Numbers: Look for Bosch 0 460 404 961 (VW OE ref: 028130082H) or similar Bosch VE series variants. [1, 2] 2. The 1.9 D Engine (Engine Code: AEF) If you have the purely mechanical indirect-injection model, your truck came from the factory with a Lucas mechanical rotary injection pump. [1] How it works: This is a fully mechanical, cable-driven pump (no ECU controlling the throttle). Note for owners: The factory Lucas pumps are infamous for developing leaks or failures over time. As a result, many owners swap them out for a highly reliable Bosch VE mechanical pump taken from older VW 1.6D or 1.9 TD (AAZ) engines, which requires changing the mounting bracket. [1, 2] Alasdair

could be a worn cv joint/drive shaft thats clunking. Mine sounds similar and reckon theres play in joint/shaft so under aceleration you dont notice as its under pressure but if you slow down and accelerate again it clunks slightly. I assume the clunking is the slack being taken up. Doesnt do it full left/right but generally in a straight line. Alasdair

Depends on what pump it is. You used to be able to get pumps recon reasonabley cheaply but cost these days can be as much as a new one. Reckon anything between £200-£800 or above depending on whats wrong. Wonder if as it ran out of diesel did it suck up crud/water and filters are blocked? Some pumps have a fine gauze at fuel inlet. Not sure what car it is or engine but it may have an intank filter as well. Worth checking and replacing all filters first. Alasdair

Was it soot or ash content or both that was 20% Soot gets burned off during regen but ash builds up over time. Next time it happens I would take it out for a decent long run and see how long it takes for it to regen again. With mine its random. Recently after decent run it took over a two weeks to start regen again but if I do short trips it starts regen about every few days until another long run. Check the dpf sensor isnt melted. Read a few reports that on ea288 engines the sensor is prone to heat and can melt/be damaged. Alasdair

When I did my MK2 I just reused the originals and have had no problems although I believe they are stretch bolts so should have been replaced. Think if it gives a torque and then a degree angle they are stretch. If its just a torque setting then they are not. Alasdair