Alasdair1

It may have all electric with the same pr code. I'm pretty sure I read when they changed from electrohydraulic to full electric they kept the same pr number 1n1 for standard steering and 1n3 for speed variable. Main worry would be that where is the fluid coming from. Does it look like engine/Gbox oil or maybe brake/clutch fluid. Alasdair

Dont suppose theres an auto power off setting or something similar in radio. The radio may have reset to default if battery was disconnected so isnt rebooting after ignition? Alasdair

As the radio worked before it must be something else. Reckon it may be the starter drawing more current as its new. Do the headlights blower etc switch off when cranking. Alasdair

Had the same on my old Octavia. It had budget tyres all round when I bought it with triangle on front and imperial on rear. They had good tread but handling in wet was atrocious as well as particulary noisy. Went with GT radial FE2 and on way home it felt so much more positive and excellent in wet. Why folks skimp on tyres is beyond me. Its the only thing holding you on the road. Alasdair

Reckon radio should be completely off with ignition off and key removed. Try swapping yellow and red wires to see if it makes a difference. It could also be a bad ignition switch thats cutting power to radio when cranking. Alasdair

Sorry its Gearbox. On my sons mk1 its a braided strap. Alasdair

With engine off I reckon 12.6v to 12.01v with what you said on is normal so pretty sure battery is good. Blower plus dip and fogs will draw a fair bit of current. Does yours have an earth strap from Gbox to chassis and has it been checked. Alasdair

That may either be a blocked heater matrix or airlock. Has there been any work done on the cooling system recently .Check that the expansion reservoir doesnt have the silica bag in it. If it ruptures then it will block heater matrix. Think they have Mit Silicat on them. Have read that if may also have G13 on tank Alasdair

If oil seperator gets blocked or PCV( Think its a diaphram one) is bad it can lead to excessive pressure and force oil out. Normally at weakest point/seal. I agree with warrior Overheating and smoke is not good. I assume it was oil temp warning. If seperator and pcv are ok it could be blocked oil return passage ways so oil isnt managing to get back to sump. I think with engine running there should be a slight vaccum at oil filler cap. If it feels like pressure then I would get the seperator/pcv checked. Might be worth a compression test as well. Alasdair

Might be bad pcv or perhaps clogged oil seperator. What engine have you. Alasdair

I would think its nut washer cable contact point is correct. The washer is normally used to distribute tightening force and stop nut coming loose. Replace spade terminal to match spade or you can get convertors but probably better to replace. It could be that the new starter is pulling more current and will draw less once worn in a bit. Alasdair

Width of spade. Its normally 6.3mm. It could be that it has become slightly too wide so by crimping the rolled sections wont make it hold very well. Either replace it or try and squeeze the rolled sections together slightly to reduce overall width Check the earth on the radio as well. If replacing make sure you use one suitable for the thickness of wire. From memory blue is 1.5-2.5mm and yellow is 3-6mm. Thats the cross sectional area of wire. Alasdair

Meant to add check the main feed from battery to starter is tight. If its slightly loose it may explain V drop. You could also check voltage accross battery when cranking to see how far it drops. Alasdair

Check the spade connection sizes. It could be that the starter has a slightly smaller spade than one than the spade connector. There normally 4.8mm or 6.3mm Alasdair

From memory the yellow wire I think is permanent live and red is from ignition. The yellow wire is there to keep settings etc. It may be that the Kenwood is more susceptible to voltage drop. Check that the yellow wire is getting 12v with ignition off. Alasdair